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Question about glue


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I use Testors 3507AT Liquid Cement for jobs I want a good bond, like the dismal tube glue we all used ... no strings attached.

A liquid glue, like Ambroid or TX-7 is also very good where it will flow into a tight joint. (sorry, my spelling bad and can't run down to check right now)

You should also have a medium CA glue. It is gel constancy and stays where you put it and gives you time to place next piece with slower curing time. I have never had any luck with thin super glue. It is a pain to apply, cures too face and the tube is dried up the next time I go to use. I like the Zap A Gap because it stays liquid to the end of the bottle!

The links are just for your reference to see what I'm talking about.

 

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Gottch Ya'll have been plenty of help for a old modeler lol.

Chris,

Another one to consider is Model Master Liquid Cement, in the black dispenser. There are many more options then in the past. Just wait until you get to the windows. The quest will begin anew.  

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I use Plastruct Bondene and Plastic Weld for liquid glues for all unpainted assemblies and some painted assemblies. I do use the Testors orange tube glue for some parts assembly after paint. I use the Testors clear parts cement and window maker for windows and painted assemblies if I don't want to or can't scrape the paint from matting surfaces. I also use CA glues of different thickness'. I've also used clear coat paint for adhering some items like photo etch. This bottle of Testors clear parts cement is at least 10 years old and still works well.

The orange tube glue is best when fresh, it strings more and more with age. 

104_1304.jpg

 

Edited by dshue76
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Depends on the specific situation.

For general all-around building, liquid glue (I use Plastrtuct Bondene). Clamp the parts to be glued together, and "paint" the seam with liquid cement. It flows into the seam and "welds" the parts together. No messy "squeeze out" or "strings" like you get with tube glue.

For certain other situations, like where parts fit is sloppy or I need to fill the area with something solid...5-minute epoxy.

Tube glue if I am gluing a small part in place that needs to be held in position as it dries. Example: side view mirrors. A tiny dab of tube glue on the glue surface of the mirror, than place the mirror in position. The tube glue is thick enough to hold a small part like that in position as it dries, liquid cement wouldn't work well in this instance.

CA glue in certain situations, or if bonding dissimilar materials (brass to plastic, wood to plastic, etc.)

For windows that fit well, small trim pieces, chrome emblems, anything that needs to be placed on a flat, smooth, usually painted surface: clear acrylic. I use "Future" clear acrylic (it's actually meant to be used on tile or hardwood floors). One bottle of the stuff will last forever.

Those are what I use: Liquid cement for 90% of building, epoxy, tube glue, or CA in certain specific situations, and clear acrylic.

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I am a big fan of Tamiya Super Thin cement, but I also use tons of CA glue. Once in a while, maybe every third kit, I'll find a use for Weldbond white glue.

Incidentally, I never mentioned it in this thread, but I built my 1958 Belvedere entirely with extra-thick generic hobby shop CA. That is my primary glue, but I usually use Tamiya cements on engines and various other parts. This one, engine, glass, body, interior - everything was CA:

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Another one to consider is Model Master Liquid Cement, in the black dispenser. There are many more options then in the past. Just wait until you get to the windows. The quest will begin anew.  

This has become my absolute first choice- not too thin, not too thick. The only thing I don't care for is the needle can pull out of the bottle easily, but it can usually get re-inserted without too much trouble. 

I also like Testors clear parts cement for a lot of stuff like fine details, tiny plated parts that you can't get the plating off of conveniently, and it does work pretty well for making gauge faces. 

Charlie Larkin

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