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Wet Look Clear - Hot or Mild?


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No exact answer in the search here and I'm considering going with a chemical mis-match.

Has anyone used the Testors over Duplicolor and Krylon lacquer colors? Is it mild like Tamiya lacquers?

I get good results with Krylon Crystal Clear acrylic over them but want a one-step clear with no polishing cloths.

 

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Yes, I've used Testors "wet look" clear over Duplicolor metallics. Slicks out great, shoot it right and you can definitely get away without sanding / polishing.

A also shot it over a Krylon solid color on a test panel, and again, it slicked out very glossy. No lifting. (The Krylon was a deep red / maroon, but I don't recall exactly WHICH Krylon line it was.)

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Thanks Bill - exactly what I was asking. Never was a Krylon fan but the only way I could get the color that was in my head.

It's Krylon Indoor / Outdoor gloss lacquer. Here it is on a test door panel with Dupli Dark Toreador Red. Would obviously prefer to shoot one clear over both without damage. The acrylic clear isn't bad and is on here now. It did take a decent polish up to 12,000 grit.

782M_zpsaawzxvqq.jpg

 

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That's going to be one hell of a gorgeous model.  :D

Shooting the Testors over the Krylon test here was for the same reason...nothing in any other line even close to the color I wanted, and the Testors clear had always given me very good results.

Thanks Bill. Here's a 'sketch' but with the correct colors and some of the bits hung on:

IMG_4503%201%20M_zpsiyjl32ry.jpg

 

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I've never had any trouble with TWLC over any other kind of paint. It does seem harder than most other paints, so is harder to rub out. I bought a "heavy duty" polish at the auto parts place just for rubbing out TWLC.

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I've never had any trouble with TWLC over any other kind of paint. It does seem harder than most other paints, so is harder to rub out. I bought a "heavy duty" polish at the auto parts place just for rubbing out TWLC.

Thanks guys, six cans on order.

Snake, when you say harder to rub out;

A. Does it spray with much peel and needs rubbing?

B. You rub out with mild compound, not cloth grits?

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This is one or two coats of "wet look" clear shot over Duplicolor...no sanding or polishing at this point...just exactly as-shot.

It slicks out quite nicely.

AUG12014Caddy_Challenger_50olds079_zps80

If you want glass-smooth, sand it with 12.000 wet and hand-rub with 3M Perfect-it polishing compound (exact number on request).

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Thanks guys, six cans on order.

Snake, when you say harder to rub out;

A. Does it spray with much peel and needs rubbing?

B. You rub out with mild compound, not cloth grits?

I routinely rub everything (almost) out. It always gives a much more realistic finish.

I've never used cloth grits, whatever they are. My go-to polish is Wright's Silver Cream, but it takes too long for it to cut the TWLC. Nowadays I usually wet-sand the TWLC with maybe 1500 wetordry, wet, and then polish.

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I routinely rub everything (almost) out. It always gives a much more realistic finish.

I've never used cloth grits, whatever they are. My go-to polish is Wright's Silver Cream, but it takes too long for it to cut the TWLC. Nowadays I usually wet-sand the TWLC with maybe 1500 wetordry, wet, and then polish.

Here's what they are and I have. They work swell for removing peel and getting to glass. Also good on model windows. Use wet with soap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MICRO-MESH-Finishing-Polishing-Set-3-x-4-Sheets-9-Grades-MADE-IN-USA-/171349259111?hash=item27e5363367:g:CDcAAOxyoVZTInvY

 

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Yes they have. I've used them for 1:1 headlight restoration (excellent for that if you're patient) and art and framing restoration.

Keep them clean after every use and they'll last for years.

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An update:

Paint arrived and I applied 2 coats today on test door panel. The panel is two colors on two-tone door. Sanded one half of each color with 3600 wet, other half was polished to 12,000. Remember this is a test panel.

Intentionally shot first coat  medium-heavy but it layed-out beautifully. I could have stopped there, but 20 minutes later (following can instructions) shot a mist coat. It too leveled fine but with a bit of fine peel; understandable since you generally shoot mist first and heavier after. Most users would be happy to get a finished paint job like this. Paint is dry to touch and smell in under 1 hour. Interesting thing is that I cannot see evidence that half the panel was sanded, under the clear. It's all one even level of gloss. Very impressive.

I will now polish from 3600 to 12,000. The good news for me is its compatibility with both Krylon and Duplicolor and when I get completely familiar with it, I'll have one coat gloss with virtually glass smoothness. Intentionally polishing after paint dry total of 2 hours to test.

Thanks men for great advice - this is just what I wanted. One clear over two differing brands of color at same time. More soon.

C

 

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Not a fan of Wet Look Clear even though peers of mine are!

Here's my deal...

IMG 4156

This was a Lindberg Caravan in red plastic.  I started with Duplicolor gray primer, then Duplicolor light blue paint.  I had everything done.  Decals in place, Sharpie in the panel lines. Gave it a shot of the One Shot Clear to seal it all in and disaster!  Everywhere that was red plastic bled through and became a dull blue, unless protected with a decal (the doors), or the panels that were originally clear (side glass).  As you can see I had a lot of time into this one at that point.  Totally disappointed!   And into the drink!  Strip, start over!

Edited by Tom Geiger
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Tom, part of the problem was not with the clear, but with everything else, like the Sharpie in the panel lines,  Sharpies and and lacquer do not mix. So thats one issues taken care of for you.  

Ive tried in the past one time to use Tamiya Smoke over windows that I use a Sharpie for the black trim(frosted area) and it ran, and that was doing very lite mist coats.

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Tom, part of the problem was not with the clear, but with everything else, like the Sharpie in the panel lines,  Sharpies and and lacquer do not mix. So thats one issues taken care of for you. 

Ive tried in the past one time to use Tamiya Smoke over windows that I use a Sharpie for the black trim(frosted area) and it ran, and that was doing very lite mist coats.

Sharpie ink will eventually bleed through everything including solid enamel. Unlike red pigment in styrene, it really WILL "bleed out."

My beloved silver Sharpies seem to be filled not with ink but with Testor Chrome Silver or something very much like it. I'd still never spray any clear OVER it, though.

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Tom I don't think it's the red bleeding through as much as it is the reaction the clear had with the paint under it allowing the base material to affect the final color. If all of the base material would have been the same you probably wouldn't have noticed the color difference since clear coats seem to make some finished colors appear darker than the base color.

That really sucks with all the time in getting the trim painted cleanly and making the decals only to have something go wrong at the end. But the difference in color on the side glass wouldn't be a deal stopper for me. To me It kind of looks right as if a fleet service did the paint over the glass and used a touch up paint that wasn't a perfect match or faded.

Edited by dshue76
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I'll keep an eye out to see this finished. I'm not a mini van fan but the way you are doing it is right up my alley. I may try to find one to do something similar with. Maybe as a messenger service van. 

It is finished.  This one, along with my Caravan Taxi are in  Model Cars Magazine issue 200.

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This is one or two coats of "wet look" clear shot over Duplicolor...no sanding or polishing at this point...just exactly as-shot.

It slicks out quite nicely.

AUG12014Caddy_Challenger_50olds079_zps80

 

Returning to my WLC discussion, Bill, when you shot this hood, did you color sand the green prior to TWLC coat? I am currently testing getting the color dull up to about 4000 before shooting the clear. In the hope that I won't have to sand / polish the clear. You got that gloss level and hard reflections right out of can and I'd like to do that.

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IMHO ANY clear finish needs to be final-polished to get a realistic gloss. If I'm going to clear-coat a paint job, I don't color-sand or polish the color, other than maybe to sand out dust or other surface flaws. Polishing under clearcoat is IMHO a waste of time.

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