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Is a 'Sealer' necessary under MCW Paint?


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Who told you that? MCW?

I haven't used their paint for years, but when I did, I just used their primer and had no problems at all. I'll probably be using them again soon. I've never used "sealer" of any kind on anything.

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You're right, plastic doesn't actually bleed through but the solvents can eat through the plastic and cause the plastic to appear to bleed through.  

I've heard some guys say they use sealer and some don't.  

I ordered some MCW paint and will test it both ways.  i'm just curious what others have experienced.

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Times two!

A friend who uses MCW paint said he always uses a sealer in between primer coats.  He said yellow, red... plastic can sort of 'bleed' through.

I'm new to MCW paints and only ordered some today so I'll see how it works out.

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Solvents can dissolve or craze the plastic, of course, but it doesn't cause any color to "bleed" through any kind of paint.

I'm still waiting for someone to tell me the name of the magic solvent that will allow me to "bleach" colored plastic back to white or clear. You know why? There's no such thing.

There is no plastic "bleeding," just paint that isn't opaque enough. Thus endeth the lesson.

Edited by Snake45
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I use MCW paints religiously.

There's no need for sealer.

MCW paints are nothing more than automotive lacquer, no different than Duplicolor or any other.

Just as you would for any "hot" paint, use plenty of primer, & light coats of color to start & you should have no crazing problems.

That "bleeding" business is just foolishness.

As long as the surface is well primed, you'll have no "bloody" problems.

 

Steve

 

 photo DSCN3179_zps1djuczsj.jpg photo DSCN3355_zpskdztqqly.jpg

 

Edited by StevenGuthmiller
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I use MCW paints religiously.

 

Then let me ask you: I want to paint 3 bodies the same color. How much of their paint do I need to order?

Also, when I used their stuff before, I used their primer, and it was lovely stuff, but a little expensive. Would I be okay using their paint over Walmart primer (which stands up to Duplicolor and all other common auto paints I've tried) or Plastikote T-235?

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Then let me ask you: I want to paint 3 bodies the same color. How much of their paint do I need to order?

Also, when I used their stuff before, I used their primer, and it was lovely stuff, but a little expensive. Would I be okay using their paint over Walmart primer (which stands up to Duplicolor and all other common auto paints I've tried) or Plastikote T-235?

I use Duplicolor primer under mine all of the time.

I'm sure any primer that will make a good barrier against crazing will work just fine.

As far as how much paint you need, that depends a lot on what all you're painting.

Does that body include everything under the hood such as firewalls, radiator brace, hood hinges, etc?

Does it include wheels & chassis over spray?

Generally, 1 jar, (1 oz.) will be more than enough for 1 body.

Here's a little trick for you too Snake.

To save on the "good" paint, I use a Duplicolor paint close to the MCW color for the first couple of color coats.

That way it requires less MCW paint to get good coverage. (usually a couple of coats)

Using this trick, I rarely use more than a half an ounce(1/2 jar) to paint one kit.

So, to answer your question, I would be surprised if you needed more than 2 jars to do those 3 bodies.

I would not be surprised if you had 2/3 of a jar left.

 

Steve

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Well I want to paint three Pontiacs in Verdoro Green, and three Plymouths in F5 green. Neither of those colors (which are very similar) have anything like them in the current Duplicolor lines, so that's a non-starter. (I've given thought to just mixing both colors out of some kind of military green plus Turn Signal Amber.)

The Pontiacs have black underhood areas, and the Plymouths are body-color there, as I'm sure you know. I'll probably do a little underside overspray on all, maybe one quick pass on each side on each chassis.

Thanks for your answers--much appreciated! B)

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A friend who uses MCW paint said he always uses a sealer in between primer coats.  He said yellow, red... plastic can sort of 'bleed' through.

I'm new to MCW paints and only ordered some today so I'll see how it works out.

That does make a difference, although I've never experienced color bleed-through, as I airbrush exclusively, and I suppose I've just figured out a technique that doesn't let that happen (seriously, I've never experienced color bleed!)

Art

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Thanks everyone for all the input.  As I said above I'll be using the MCW paints for the first time and a friend suggested using a sealer.

I did order the MCW acrylic sealer but I might not use it.  I'll do some testing before making this decision.  

I'm currently working on building a 1964 Cadillac Ambulance which I'm making by combining a Polar Lights Ecto-1 and a Jo-han 1964 Cadillac Deville.  I'll be using the MCW paints on this one.  I bought 1970 Cadillac Cotillion White(Chevrolet Dover White) and 1966 Cadillac Autumn Rust(a special order color) which is a metallic brown color.  I also have a 1970 Cadillac that I'll be using the Cotillion White on.  

I last used Testors MM Custom Lacquer System paint and was not completely satisfied with it.  It stays soft and doesn't adhere as well as I'd like.  

I've been hearing great things about the MCW paints and that their metallics look more in scale.  

Now I have to figure out a good clear coat to use over the MCW paints since I want to apply clear over decals.  I have a can of the Testors MM Custom Lacquer Ultra Gloss Clear but would like to use something better since it seems to require a lot of polishing.

A friend recently used Gravity Colors' One Shot Urethane and he really likes it.  Plus Urethane goes over decals nicely so this one is a consideration.    

 

Does anyone have any suggestions for a gloss clear that will safely go over decals?

 

Here's the link to my 1964 Ambulance build.

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Thanks everyone for all the input.  As I said above I'll be using the MCW paints for the first time and a friend suggested using a sealer.

I did order the MCW acrylic sealer but I might not use it.  I'll do some testing before making this decision.  

I'm currently working on building a 1964 Cadillac Ambulance which I'm making by combining a Polar Lights Ecto-1 and a Jo-han 1964 Cadillac Deville.  I'll be using the MCW paints on this one.  I bought 1970 Cadillac Cotillion White(Chevrolet Dover White) and 1966 Cadillac Autumn Rust(a special order color) which is a metallic brown color.  I also have a 1970 Cadillac that I'll be using the Cotillion White on.  

I last used Testors MM Custom Lacquer System paint and was not completely satisfied with it.  It stays soft and doesn't adhere as well as I'd like.  

I've been hearing great things about the MCW paints and that their metallics look more in scale.  

Now I have to figure out a good clear coat to use over the MCW paints since I want to apply clear over decals.  I have a can of the Testors MM Custom Lacquer Ultra Gloss Clear but would like to use something better since it seems to require a lot of polishing.

A friend recently used Gravity Colors' One Shot Urethane and he really likes it.  Plus Urethane goes over decals nicely so this one is a consideration.    

 

Does anyone have any suggestions for a gloss clear that will safely go over decals?

 

Here's the link to my 1964 Ambulance build.

Testors clear lacquers are mild enough to spray over decals as I'm sure acrylic or urethane would be, although I have no experience with either.

Just be sure to stay away from any automotive clear lacquers like Duplicolor for use over decals.

They will eat your decals for breakfast! :P

If you're not using decals, automotive clears will work just fine over MCW paint.

 

Steve

 

 

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Plastic colour certainly DOES bleed through primer and basecoat, sometimes, anyway.

I've had two builds where I had to strip the model right back to bare plastic and start again when the 2K Clear Coat was tinted by the underlying plastic colour. In both cases the paint job was yellow over a red plastic body. You could see the red-tinted clear making the body look orange in areas where it was gathering slightly (recesses and the base of some panels). I bought some dedicated Zero Paints sealer, and now I use it first -- but only on builds with red plastic and a paler final colour (white or yellow).

bestest,

M.

Edited by Matt Bacon
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Ten different model car builders will have at least 20 different methods for successful paint... none the same, results will vary, and what works for some won't work for the others... standard disclaimer out of the way - 

yes, I've had red plastic color show through Plasticoat t-235 gray primer after a couple of days.  It looked good wet.  Strange thing was, when I stripped it, the red plastic was lighter.

With plastic from at least two different bodies that may vary in color, body work, filler, primer, time invested and a white lacquer top coat...  A sealer sounds like good insurance and some peace of mind.  The thinner in each coat of  lacquer (Plasticoat) primer or lacquer color slightly softens the layer below.  A sealer provides a barrier coat that keeps what's under the paint under the paint - that's what it's designed to do.   It also keeps the top coat from attacking what's underneath.  Sealer goes on thinner and has less texture than most primers - covers less detail than a primer coat and no sanding.  No need to sand or prime over the sealer. Top coats can go directly over sealer (follow the manufacturer's instructions).  I've painted white directly over sealer with no problem. You've got one important thing going for you because the paint and sealer come from the same place.

I've had no regrets using  sealer.

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