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’98 Corvette


Scale-Master

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This is another in a series of models of real cars I’ve owned.  Currently it is my daily driver.

While it is pretty much bone stock, I do have C6 style rims on it.  So the first step was to make a mold and cast resin copies of the rims in the Revell ’05 Corvette.  The rims are engineered differently between the C5 and C6 kits so I had to machine off the outer part of the rim that goes inside the tires.

They also mount to the two cars differently so I milled adapters from resin to allow the C6 wheels to press fit onto the C5 axle stubs with the proper spacing.

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I took a bunch of pictures when I had it on the rack so getting the colors for the underside was easy.  While the kit is a ’97 and mine is a ’98 there should not be much difference.  But for whatever reason there are some discrepancies between the molded part and the real car. So I painted it to match the real car as much as I could and didn’t worry about the differences in the molding. 

Instead of masking and spraying I freehand brush painted everything except the gray panels.  It was easier than masking.  I added a little dirt and grime as I went along too.

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I started working on the body.  It is molded with a few seams and not difficult to clean up.  But I went a little further and spent a few hours to scribe all the body and panel lines to more closely reflect the way the real cars are.

I also reworked the rear license plate to look more like the style frame I have on my car by adding thin strips of styrene to the top and bottom edges.

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The rear sway bar does not physically match my car nor does the placement as called out in the instructions. “Torsion bar must slide under the exhaust and glue to the lower suspension system.” 

Nope, the sway bar goes on top (when the car is upside down) of the exhaust.

I cut the two ends off outside the mounting brackets and installed the center section to match my car.  Then I swapped the ends and cemented them in the proper place as well. 

Actually an easy fix that is correct, and a lot less hassle than trying to jam it under the exhaust.

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After mating the chassis to the interior I added a couple custom made decals (from the original art I did for the kit) to the battery and master cylinder.  And some more dust and road dirt…

The grey for the interior color was trickier to match than I expected.  It is a warm shade and I used acrylics to mix it from JN Light Gray, Flat Earth, Flat Aluminum and Black.

I made decals for the gear selector on the boot and the shift pattern knob.  Yes, it is a four speed auto with a six speed manual pattern.

 

Edited by Scale-Master
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The rear sway bar does not physically match my car nor does the placement as called out in the instructions. “Torsion bar must slide under the exhaust and glue to the lower suspension system.” 

Nope, the sway bar goes on top (when the car is upside down) of the exhaust.

I cut the two ends off outside the mounting brackets and installed the center section to match my car.  Then I swapped the ends and cemented them in the proper place as well. 

Actually an easy fix that is correct, and a lot less hassle than trying to jam it under the exhaust.

DSC06870_zpsa6kmukm8.jpg

On behalf of all future builders of this kit, thanks for pointing out the sway bar error as well as listing a way to correct it.

Couple questions:

1) Can you elaborate on what paints and/or stains you used to achieve all those shades on the exhaust?

2) Whose acrylics did you use for the interior, and if you don't mind me asking, why acrylics as opposed to enamels?

As always, I enjoy watching your projects come to life, and this looks to be another knockout.  

 

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Glad to help Monty.

1: Silver (Testors enamel) for a base.  Titanium Gold (Tamiya acrylic) for the front section; diluted for the cats.  Black (Testors enamel) for the rear section.  A wash of Tamiya Flat Earth and a little Black (acrylics) for the dirt.

2:  All Tamiya, only because I had them handy.  I cut the mix with lacquer thinner, so they sprayed like enamels.

And thank you.

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