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David G.

Revell 1960 Chevy

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I started this kit back in 2011. When I opened it I found that the roof had been squished and twisted to one side. So i began having problems, literally, right out of the box. As I recall, it took several days to correct. I used scalding water to soften the plastic "A" pillars just enough to allow them to be moved into the proper position and held there and quenched in cool water to fix them into position. This process had to be repeated probably a couple of dozen times to gradually coax the plastic into recalling its rightful place in the universe.

 

60Chevy00.jpg

 

When Revell issued this kit they used the chassis from the 59 Chevy. One of the differences between the 1959 chassis and the 1960 chassis is that the 59 chassis has a spare tire well in the floor of the trunk behind the right rear wheel. The 1960 chassis does not.

60Chevy01.jpg

 

I corrected this error by cutting the offending wheel well out of the chassis, and replacing it with a piece of flat styrene. I then used heavy aluminium foil to create an impression and copy the floor ribbing from the left side and glued it to the right side. Sorry for the old blurry photo.

60Chevy02.jpg

 

As always, thanks for taking the time to look, and feel free to offer comments and critiques.

David G.

Edited by David G.
date update

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looks real to me nice job on the weathering. good tip on the foil too

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I started with red over white, similar to the box lid but that didn't work out the way I intended. So now I'm leaning toward red.

David G.

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Ahhh, the 1960 Chevy! IMO, this kit has the most accurate 1959-60 GM "Bubbletop" rooflines! I liked it so much that I swapped it in place of Revell's '59 Impala build I did a while back. 

So you can bet I'll be following this one to see what you do with it, and I like what I see so far! VERY good job on weathering the chassis! B)

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I started with red over white, similar to the box lid but that didn't work out the way I intended. So now I'm leaning toward red.

David G.

Sounds good to me.

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looks real to me nice job on the weathering. good tip on the foil too

 

Thanks John. I don't believe in keeping secrets when it comes to model car tips.

David G.

Edited by David G.

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Ahhh, the 1960 Chevy! IMO, this kit has the most accurate 1959-60 GM "Bubbletop" rooflines! I liked it so much that I swapped it in place of Revell's '59 Impala build I did a while back. 

So you can bet I'll be following this one to see what you do with it, and I like what I see so far! VERY good job on weathering the chassis! B)

 

Thanks Bill, I love these big ol' bombers too, 

 Weathering seems to come naturally to me. Laying down good paint, now that's another matter altogether.

David G.

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I'm processing the dozens of photos I've taken over the course of this project. As I get more of them finished, I'll post them, so here's a couple more. 

 

The ride height on most model car kits end up being 2 to 6 scale inched too high.

 

This one is surprisingly accurate. No adjustments needed.

 

Except that now I'm having some trouble getting the chassis to tuck under the body with the assembled interior in place; it seems that the interior is too high in the front. My next plan is to pop the dashboard loose and see if I can re-mount it in a lower position to allow more room for fit.

Thanks for taking the time to look and feel free to comment and/or critique. I promise not to cry and stomp my feet :)

David G.

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David, one very common problem with Revell's '59-'60 Chevy kits is that I believe they modeled the floorpan a bit too tall, allowing the floor to hang below the rockers a bit too much. I had this very issue with my '59 WIP, and I ended up grinding away at the floor with a Dremel Moto-Tool to get rid of the "hanging low" look. It's hard to tell in your pic because of the shadows, but I suspect that's the trouble you're having.

Not to hijack your thread, but here are a couple pics of what I had to do.......................

Before pic of the floor hanging too low.............

P2135532.JPG

..............and now after..............

P2275543.JPG

The hair raising part is that I had to grind at the floor AFTER it was all painted and detailed! :o

Hope this helps!

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Nice work on this one, David!

Ride height looks good. Maybe it's the photo angle but it appears that the front axle is too far back. Is that a result of the fit issue you're having?

Also, the track width on this kit seems too wide.

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David, one very common problem with Revell's '59-'60 Chevy kits is that I believe they modeled the floorpan a bit too tall, allowing the floor to hang below the rockers a bit too much. I had this very issue with my '59 WIP, and I ended up grinding away at the floor with a Dremel Moto-Tool to get rid of the "hanging low" look. It's hard to tell in your pic because of the shadows, but I suspect that's the trouble you're having.

Not to hijack your thread, but here are a couple pics of what I had to do.......................

Before pic of the floor hanging too low.............

P2135532.JPG

..............and now after..............

P2275543.JPG

The hair raising part is that I had to grind at the floor AFTER it was all painted and detailed! :o

Hope this helps!

 

Yeah Bill, that does seem to be the problem. Are you saying that I should see about removing material from the bottom of the floor platform and the top of the chassis plate. It looks to me that if I could settle the dash board lower into the interior it would allow the interior bucket to snuggle higher into the body.

Hmmm, decisions, decisions. 

I'll look into both options and consider a combination of the two.. or three.

Thanks for the tip, I'm glad to know that it wasn't likely an issue that I created.

Nice Impala BTW- they do look good in red, don't they?

David G.

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Nice work on this one, David!

Ride height looks good. Maybe it's the photo angle but it appears that the front axle is too far back. Is that a result of the fit issue you're having?

Also, the track width on this kit seems too wide.

Thanks John, I think the front axle issue is mostly due to camera angle and the body alignment, With the interior in place, there seems to be no issue with that. I hadn't noticed a track issue, but if there is one, I'm just going to live with it. :)

David G.

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I have to agree, the weathering on the bottom does look good.

Thanks Kevin. I like to think that weathering is one of the things I'm good at.

David G,

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Nice work, David! Don't see too many '60's here, even fewer stock ones!

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Yeah Bill, that does seem to be the problem. Are you saying that I should see about removing material from the bottom of the floor platform and the top of the chassis plate. It looks to me that if I could settle the dash board lower into the interior it would allow the interior bucket to snuggle higher into the body.

Hmmm, decisions, decisions. 

I'll look into both options and consider a combination of the two.. or three.

Thanks for the tip, I'm glad to know that it wasn't likely an issue that I created.

Nice Impala BTW- they do look good in red, don't they?

David G.

This is a bit tough to answer as I built mine very differently than the way you're doing yours. As far as the interior, I didn't use the interior bucket at all due to the opening doors. The tub would have made this area too shallow for the door jamb area, so I used only the driveshaft tunnel from the tub, and blended it in to the chassis floor. I guess you could say that I pretty much re-engineered the kit from bumper to bumper. If you'd like, you can go here as I have a TON of pics of when I was building it. You'll see how I did the interior for it.

I can tell you that this is not just a problem with this kit, there are some others that I can think of from Revell that sit too tall due to what I call "stacking" of the different parts of the kit. You've got the chassis floor for one that is more than likely out of scale thickness comparing it to the 1:1. Then throw in the interior tub, glass, and the whole car can end up sitting higher than it should. Real cars don't use tubs for their interiors, and it's something I wish Revell would get away from, and engineer their kits like AMT did during the '90's with their interiors being built on the flip side of the chassis floor--------just like a 1:1.

It's good that you can sort this out before you paint! Nothing's more frustrating to me than to get everything all built up, only to find out there's a severe fit issue at the end. It's one of the reasons that painting is the LAST thing I do before I get 'er all together.

And yes, indeed they DO look good in red! :D

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This is a bit tough to answer as I built mine very differently than the way you're doing yours. As far as the interior, I didn't use the interior bucket at all due to the opening doors. The tub would have made this area too shallow for the door jamb area, so I used only the driveshaft tunnel from the tub, and blended it in to the chassis floor. I guess you could say that I pretty much re-engineered the kit from bumper to bumper. If you'd like, you can go here as I have a TON of pics of when I was building it. You'll see how I did the interior for it.

I can tell you that this is not just a problem with this kit, there are some others that I can think of from Revell that sit too tall due to what I call "stacking" of the different parts of the kit. You've got the chassis floor for one that is more than likely out of scale thickness comparing it to the 1:1. Then throw in the interior tub, glass, and the whole car can end up sitting higher than it should. Real cars don't use tubs for their interiors, and it's something I wish Revell would get away from, and engineer their kits like AMT did during the '90's with their interiors being built on the flip side of the chassis floor--------just like a 1:1.

It's good that you can sort this out before you paint! Nothing's more frustrating to me than to get everything all built up, only to find out there's a severe fit issue at the end. It's one of the reasons that painting is the LAST thing I do before I get 'er all together.

And yes, indeed they DO look good in red! :D

 

Thanks Bill, I'll have to try to keep this in mind for future Revell projects.

David G.

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Thanks Kevin. I like to think that weathering is one of the things I'm good at.

David G,

Well it looks good to me. Since the majority of any weathering I ever would attempt would be on the chassis area, and I don't particularly care about that area on most of my models, I doubt I'll ever try it.

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Time for another update. 

 

The interior fit issue is still "pending further investigation."  In the meantime...

I feel that a detailed dashboard is one of those little touches that, though many people may not notice directly, can have a strong over-all impact on the appearance on a model.

Using Tamiya Italian Red straight from the spray-can as the base color, I added detail by painting the gauges with silver enamel then added a thin black wash to bring out the engraved detail. The "Impala" trim bar on the right side I covered with Bare Metal Foil and brushed on some semi-gloss black. I then used a toothpick dipped in lacquer thinner to remove the paint from the letters.

60Chevy10.jpg

 

Time to add the Alclad-painted and detailed lower dash panels.

60Chevy11.jpg

 

 

As always,thanks for taking the time to look and feel free to comment.

David G.

Edited by David G.

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Something is causing problems between Photobucket and the MCM Forum. I've been trying off and on throughout most of today to post a message with four photos and I can only get it to work with two, so here's the rest of the post.

OK, minor setback. The clamp (clothespin) slipped while I was setting it marring the chromey paint on the lower panel. I hope to be able to touch it up. At least I can take small comfort in the fact that once the kit is assembled, this area won't be highly visible.

 

I dry brushed some Alclad on to the lower dashboard pieces. Though it's not perfect, I think it'll pass inspection when assembled inside the car. I also added some clear acrylic to the gauges to simulate the face covers.

 

As always, thanks for taking the time to look and feel free to comment.

David G.

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On to the rest of the interior!

 

The seats are painted, the decals are placed and the floor is flocked. Time to start putting it all together.

 

The door panels started with a base coat of white followed with an application of Bare Metal Foil for the bright trim. Then I masked the areas where the decals were to be applied so it would remain white to show the decals better. After painting with Tamiya Italian Red, I cleaned the paint from the foiled bright-work, flocked the lower carpeted portion of the door panels and applied the decals. The window cranks and arm rests are separate pieces that I painted and applied.

 

Preparing for assembly. The seats have been dull-coated to remove the high-gloss sheen.

 

The mostly assembled interior.

 

In place and ready for test fitting.

 

As always, thanks for taking the time to look and feel free to comment.

David G.

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Now that's one cool lookin' interior right there!!! Wow!! Love the dash work Dave!!!!

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