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thecrossguy

1969 Chevy nova COPO

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Hello everyone. Well this isn't really on the work bench yet as my plans are to enter in the model car show in February. But, I do need some help. This wheel be my first time lowering a model car and I would like to keep the realism of it if possible. The rear end I have figured out. The front suspension is another story. A-arm is mounted to the frame and there isn't a lot of room to hack off the spindle. I was thinking of sawing off the A-arm to bring it up some but there ain't a lot of room to do that. So any suggestions, advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

IMG_20160723_100105_zpsswmrskq7.jpgIMG_20160723_100218_zpsycupr1il.jpg

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You can either cut the arm off as you mentioned, or fill in the opening for the axle and blend it with the upper arm, then drill a new hole. I have also seen some folks cut the tab off the back of the wheel, re-glue it off center, then when you mount the wheel it sits lower. I am sure there other ways, just be creative.

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i think mark is spot on glue the part together , fill the existing hole , maybe reinforce with a plate over that and drill a hole higher up ... tbh you also might consider making the inner wing / tubs thinner at the front to gain room to go a bit lower in the front ..or you could remove the inner wheel tubs at the front as they are detachable plastic ones in real life ... so they dont have any stuctural meaning ... then you could set it like you want in the front and remount the inner tubs (guards) at the right hight ..

if the picture shows the final stance i think it looks lower in the back then the front , it should sit a tad lower in the front as in the back .. even if you would have to put it higher in the back ..

i'm working at the same kit atm in weathered form and i know ou can also gain room by making all the parts fit together better , meaning the part have gap like you have between the suspension parts above the mounting hole in the front

 

i like the look already with these wheels !!

Edited by crazyrichard

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Um, don't know what '69 Novas you've been looking at Richard but all the ones I've seen do indeed have metal inner fenders, not plastic ,,and usually rusty in this part of the world. :P And a Nova being a unibody car without a frame, they help keep the front fenders, radiator wall, etc  in place and lined up properly. The only time you'd see one of these cars without inner fenders is if it's a race car.

$_72.JPG

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Hello everyone. Well this isn't really on the work bench yet as my plans are to enter in the model car show in February. But, I do need some help. This wheel be my first time lowering a model car and I would like to keep the realism of it if possible. The rear end I have figured out. The front suspension is another story. A-arm is mounted to the frame and there isn't a lot of room to hack off the spindle. I was thinking of sawing off the A-arm to bring it up some but there ain't a lot of room to do that. So any suggestions, advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

IMG_20160723_100105_zpsswmrskq7.jpgIMG_20160723_100218_zpsycupr1il.jpg

You have gotten a couple of very good ideas on lowering your Nova. The last '69 Nova I built I also wanted a lowered front suspension, but used a little different approach. If you study your picture for a moment you'll notice that the upper control arm has a  curved surface to meet the wheel mounting hole which would be the spindle on a 1:1 car. What I did was to saw the circle from the lower control arm. You will not get the whole thing but will be left with a flat surface just below the opening for where the tire is mounted. Then do much the same thing with the upper control arm removing the part that the mounting ring would fit into. Then revers their positions between the upper and lower control arms. If you look at the picture and imagine the two upright mounting surfaces reversed it will work out to about 2" to 3" lower than stock. The part you removed from the upper control arm will have a flat surface to mount on the lower control arm. The part removed from the lower control arm will also have a flat surface to mount to the upper control arm.   

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