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gluebum

Round2 kit issues

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Ok, this is the third Round2 kit I have had issue with and this one is by far the worst problem kit so far. Paint or primer absolutely WILL NOT STICK to this kit. I washed it as always before starting, paint looks like oil or water under it when applied. OK I stripped in brake fluid, same problem, stripped in purple pond...same problem. Stripped in brake fluid, washed, easy off, washed, Tamiya primer mostly covers but starts to bubble, ok I wet sand bubbles, shot with Krylon (Yeah getting po'ed and cheap), first coat looks ok, second coat of same paint crazes like..well crazy.  I am trying to build the Round2 '53 Ford Truck. ( I'm done with it and it is going into trash) Does any one else have any experience with this problem? I am also building a Revel 68 Mustang bought at same time, zero problem with paint. I just completed the Round2 Cougar Eliminator last week, again no problems. Plastic looked different on the two Round2 kits as well.

Thanks if anyone has any ideas.  

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My first question t you is, are you sanding the body before painting or primering. I've built two Round 2 kits with no problems what so ever. That said, matbe I'm just lucky.

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Ive built a few of the newer re-issue round 2 kits with no issues whatsoever, I wash the parts in normal dishwashing soap, then I scuff the body with a very fine Scotch pad, I wipe the body over with panel wipe/degreaser before I spray the primer coat, I always use a plastic primer as it bites into the plastic better, but I only use regular car parts shop plastic primer, I dont bother with the expensive Tamiya primers even though they are very good.

I have had issues with certain topcoat sprays slightly crazing the plastic but this is normally my own fault for laying down "to heavy" a coat.

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There are so many variables (every model company uses a slightly different recipe of styrene)...so there's no   one correct answer to your problem.

Here's what I do, and it works very well. Before painting, I'll take the body, and under running water, use some very fine steel wool to thoroughly rub down every inch of the body. Not only does this remove anything on the plastic that shouldn't be there, but it leaves the surface ready to accept primer or paint very well. Another way to do it and get the same result is to use Comet (or any brand of kitchen cleanser... even the generic ones work well), and use a stiff toothbrush to scour the body with the Comet (again, I do this under running water). Then rinse thoroughly and let air dry.

Either way, you will have a spotlessly clean body ready to accept any paint or primer you want to use.

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Don't know if this is causing it but I have noticed that the laquer clear coat that they use under the chrome plating is on many of the unplated parts as well.

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Here's what I do, and it works very well. Before painting, I'll take the body, and under running water, use some very fine steel wool to thoroughly rub down every inch of the body.

I used to do that but always found it difficult (impossible?) to remove all the tiny steel fragments it left. Now I use a fine Scotchbrite pad for that, with the same or even superior results. And no steel threadlets left.

And here's an interesting factoid about Scotchbrite: A standard way to remove minor rust from a firearm for decades has been to rub it with fine steel wool, which takes the rust right off, but not the blued finish, for some reason. But DON'T do this with a Scotchbrite, as it WILL remove bluing, and faster than you'd believe!

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Snake your right. I found that out when i tried it on my Weatherby with light flecking on the barrel end. Cold blue helped afterwards.

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Do you paint outside then bring it into a comfy air conditioned room? If so, rather than condemn the plastic, I would consider condensation and humidity. Especially after the weather most of the country has had the last two or three weeks.

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Hi gluebum

I had the same issue with an older release of amt 53 ford truck (not sure exactly which release but in this box)

AMT%20T410%2053FPUgd+.JPG

Never did figure out why, but went through several rounds of prime, paint, strip, repeat.  Eventually I got an almost acceptable primer coat down on the body, gently sanded the remaining bubbles, added some rust and build the kit "rat rod style".

I know not any help in this, but hopefully feel better knowing you are not alone.

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Ok, this is the third Round2 kit I have had issue with and this one is by far the worst problem kit so far. Paint or primer absolutely WILL NOT STICK to this kit. I washed it as always before starting, paint looks like oil or water under it when applied. OK I stripped in brake fluid, same problem, stripped in purple pond...same problem. Stripped in brake fluid, washed, easy off, washed, Tamiya primer mostly covers but starts to bubble, ok I wet sand bubbles, shot with Krylon (Yeah getting po'ed and cheap), first coat looks ok, second coat of same paint crazes like..well crazy.  I am trying to build the Round2 '53 Ford Truck. ( I'm done with it and it is going into trash) Does any one else have any experience with this problem? I am also building a Revel 68 Mustang bought at same time, zero problem with paint. I just completed the Round2 Cougar Eliminator last week, again no problems. Plastic looked different on the two Round2 kits as well.

Thanks if anyone has any ideas.  

A light sanding should work but no guarantee. Is there a store like Hobby Lobby or hobby shop where you bought it that you can return it.??  You could contact Round 2 they may just send you what you need or a kit...

Edited by slusher

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I used to do that but always found it difficult (impossible?) to remove all the tiny steel fragments it left. Now I use a fine Scotchbrite pad for that, with the same or even superior results. And no steel threadlets left.

And here's an interesting factoid about Scotchbrite: A standard way to remove minor rust from a firearm for decades has been to rub it with fine steel wool, which takes the rust right off, but not the blued finish, for some reason. But DON'T do this with a Scotchbrite, as it WILL remove bluing, and faster than you'd believe!

I also use those Scotchbrite pads instead of steel wool (I don't own a gun). :) 

As far as the bluing goes, I suspect that it is a fairly hard coating (harder than the metal used in steel wool). That is why steel wool will clean the rust off but not touch bluing.  But Scotchbrite pads are some sort of non-woven plastic fiber coated with fine abrasive material. I suspect that the abrasive material (aluminum oxide maybe?) is harder than the bluing, so it abrades it.

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Just as an update.

I didn't throw it away (although I should). I stripped the body then scrubbed everything down as best as I could soft scrub and steel wool then spayed everything with Tamiya. Paint on large surfaces (ie: body etc) is holding pretty well although it isn't getting as hard as I would like. Any paint any color still bubbles to small extent in nooks and crannies.

I honestly have never seen anything like it.

Someday I'll finish it up as a daily driver with a little rust, if I'm not totally repulsed I'll stick some pictures in under glass.

Thanks to everyone for the feedback, I'm sure the answer is a combination of factors.

Edited by gluebum
misspelled

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