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Why no kit plating chrome?


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Thanks for the replies, Guys! Harry, I've seen the beautiful results you get with Spaz Stix, I was just wondering if the chrome for kits was available as a dip, maybe.......

That's how I thought that kit pieces were done, like in a vat or something (like hydroplating)....... Ace cleared that up for me, though....

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That looks great, how much does it cost to get the parts chromed like that?

Unlike Chrome Tech, Bob & Rick @ Kustom Khrome don't offer a price for mounted parts, so they're a bit more expensive.

Although, they are in line with Chrome Tech's "loose parts" price.

They prefer to mount the pieces for plating themselves, & believe me, they did a better job than I could ever do in that department.

So, they charge by the piece.

Prices vary depending on size.

A bumper costs $4.00, a set of wheels $2.00, Small misc. parts $1.75 each & misc. medium parts $3.50 each.

They also do chassis for $15.00 & whole kit trees for $20.00.

The individual who does all of their plating for them is the same guy who used to do all of the plating for companies like Johan & MPC, so they know what they're doing when it comes to plating kit parts.

If I recall correctly, the parts in the photo cost me around $125.00?

 

Steve

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 photo DSCN5250_zps0wspznly.jpg

WOW!! That is nice! I'll definitely be looking those guys up in the future! That rivals IMO chrome as seen on a 1:1 it's that good!

I don't mind sending parts loose as I've always found mounting my own parts to be a hassle that I hate doing, so I'd sooner have them do it. ;)

 

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WOW!! That is nice! I'll definitely be looking those guys up in the future! That rivals IMO chrome as seen on a 1:1 it's that good!

I don't mind sending parts loose as I've always found mounting my own parts to be a hassle that I hate doing, so I'd sooner have them do it. ;)

 

I don't mind either.

In fact, I prefer it but always thought I'd save a few bucks mounting my own when I used Chrome Tech.

I think I've discovered that the price difference is not worth the time & hassle.

Bob at Kustom Khrome also told me that the silicone that we're told to use for mounting by Chrome Tech is a bad idea.

Seems there is a chemical reaction between the silicone & the chemicals used in the plating process that can greatly affect adhesion of the chrome.

They use all 2 sided tape to mount their parts.

I used to get results like this from Chrome Tech years ago, but as of late, the quality has suffered.

I've been getting far too many parts back with quality issues.

Mainly the fact that the under coating is sprayed on way to heavily hiding details & in some cases leaving "ripples" in the chrome.

When I got my parts back from Kustom Khrome, I was amazed at the quality!

Aside from a couple of extremely tiny dust specks in a couple of parts, they were perfect!!

 

Steve

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Just be warned, I understand that solution refills cost as much as the original kit.

Might be worth trying, but I think I'll wait a few years until the price comes down.

Remember the $1,000.00 VCR? :P

 

Steve

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Steve...prior to plating, what sanding grit do you take your work on the bumpers and parts to where you've removed mold lines or made other modifications? And can those guys plate over correctly finished epoxy or bondo on customized parts?

I know some of you don't like Facebook, but they have a page there with pics of their "catalog", which also details thorough instructions on prepping and whatnot, and contact info. You can (if you'd like) check it out here.

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Steve...prior to plating, what sanding grit do you take your work on the bumpers and parts to where you've removed mold lines or made other modifications? And can those guys plate over correctly finished epoxy or bondo on customized parts?

Bill has the right idea if you're a "Face Booker".

If your like me, I don't even have a Facebook account. :P

I use the Testors sanding films for a lot of things & I believe the finest grit in the pack is 600.

That's as far as I went & it worked out fine.

The guys at Kustom Khrome recommend 1000 grit.

Most of my films are pretty worn, so essentially the fine is probably worn down to that at least.

They don't recommend plating over fillers, but I do it all of the time & it's always worked fine for me.

Usually just small sink marks & the like filled with Squadron Green.

They do recommend using some sort of sealer over the filler if you use it.

They say Testors clear lacquer will suffice.

 

Steve

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While there is no "DIY" chrome plating process available, if the reason for your question is wondering if it's possible to "chrome plate" kit parts at home, you can get very close with Spaz Stix spray.

BUT, Spaz Stix, while great, does NOT provide the absolute mirror finish that vacuum-plating does.   BTW, have you ever considered the tabletop chromium electroplating kits that are out there, Harry, from the likes of say, Eastwood?

Art

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The Eastwood kit isn't usable on plastic. First of all, plastics are non-conductive. In order to electroplate plastic, it must be etched with an oxidizing solution, placed in another solution containing copper or nickel ions which chemically bond with the etched plastic and provide a conductive surface for electroplating. In short, it's an involved process which isn't worth the effort or financial layout to plate model parts at home.

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The Eastwood kit isn't usable on plastic. First of all, plastics are non-conductive. In order to electroplate plastic, it must be etched with an oxidizing solution, placed in another solution containing copper or nickel ions which chemically bond with the etched plastic and provide a conductive surface for electroplating. In short, it's an involved process which isn't worth the effort or financial layout to plate model parts at home.

Joe, electroplaing can be done on plastic--it was done way back in the 1950's and even into the 60's, on the likes of dashboard and gearshift knobs--and as well on the grilles & bumpers of those high-end diecast model cars and pickups from the likes of Franklin & Danbury Mints.   All that is needed is a pre-coating  of an electro-conductive material onto the raw plastic parts--and that stuff IS available in small quantities even today.

Art

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Art, I didn't say that it's not doable. 

All that is needed is a pre-coating  of an electro-conductive material onto the raw plastic parts--and that stuff IS available in small quantities even today.

I pointed out exactly the same thing you wrote in your response. The plastic still requires to be etched prior to being placed in the electroconductive solution. My point was that it's an involved process and the kits available are still fairly expensive. The refills can be just as costly as the kit itself. 

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Art, I didn't say that it's not doable. 

I pointed out exactly the same thing you wrote in your response. The plastic still requires to be etched prior to being placed in the electroconductive solution. My point was that it's an involved process and the kits available are still fairly expensive. The refills can be just as costly as the kit itself. 

Actually, you can get that electro-conductive precoat from Eastwood.

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