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MPC 32 Ford America Graffiti Milner's car


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Thank you for info and picture.so the 32 was based off the switchers?.do you have a picture of the switchers kit?also what is wrong with the 32 that wasn't what the real 32 had..hope that makes sense.......Chris 

These two are the MPC '32 "Switchers" kits. Image result for mpc switchers 32 ford      Image result for mpc switchers 32 ford

The American Graffiti version got a chopped coupe body with a separate top (which isn't particularly accurate).

The frame in these kits doesn't look anything like a real '32 Ford frame, and there are other inaccuracies. I've never researched the Graffiti / Milner car, but you could probably make a much more accurate model by starting with a Revell 5-window.

If I'm not mistaken, the Milner chopped '32 5-window body shell made a later appearance in this AMT-boxed kit too.   Image result for mpc switchers 32 ford

 

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Ok,so the switcher 32 Ford has a chopped top and body? The net says Milner 32 had a three inch chopped top..not body..right.so the body being chopped is wrong.

inaccurate frame?.the inaccurate or absence or a real frame is a problem I can solve.

Milners 32 has cycle front fenders and bobbed rear ones.are those in any kit?

the chopped rad. shell,plus it looks different shaped on the Milner 32,where would or how would you make one?

starting there as far as the problems go.is there anything in the MPC more American Graffiti 32 Ford that is of use for this car?

s-l400-3.jpeg

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Ok,so the switcher 32 Ford has a chopped top and body? The net says Milner 32 had a three inch chopped top..not body..right.so the body being chopped is wrong.

inaccurate frame?.the inaccurate or absence or a real frame is a problem I can solve.

Milners 32 has cycle front fenders and bobbed rear ones.are those in any kit?

the chopped rad. shell,plus it looks different shaped on the Milner 32,where would or how would you make one?

starting there as far as the problems go.is there anything in the MPC more American Graffiti 32 Ford that is of use for this car?

s-l400-3.jpeg

Let's review and elaborate on some points

The "More American Graffiti" kit is derived from the Switchers kits. Many of the parts are the same as the Switchers kits.

The top in the MPC Graffiti kit is chopped, not the body. A "chopped" body would be referred to as "sectioned"

Unfortunately, the lower body isn't proportioned correctly either. The ancient AMT '32 body shell was too short (height-wise) and appeared "sectioned". The Revell '32 body shells are about right height-wise, and the MPC '32 kits are somewhere in between.

The frames in all the Switchers and Switchers-derived kits are completely and totally wrong for a '32 Ford. If the Milner car is on a '32 frame, I believe you'll need to source one elsewhere. The Revell '32 frames are pretty good, but you may have to change the rear suspension if you want accuracy. As I said, I've never researched the Milner car specifically.

The rear bobbed fenders are easy to make just like real ones are...you just cut down the stock rear '32 fenders.

Cycle front fenders are available in several kits, including this one...   Image result for amt 27 tall T kit

They can also be made just like real ones often were by cutting down a "continental" style tire cover.

To get a "chopped" radiator shell, you simply take a section out of the stock unit.

 

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The body isn't too bad, but I really dont like the thickness of the top insert. Adding a section to the body sides to get the right proportions is simple. The frame is so wrong that I substituted a modified AMT 32 Vicky frame. I got this far with it.

Image result for milner's revenge

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The body isn't too bad, but I really dont like the thickness of the top insert. Adding a section to the body sides to get the right proportions is simple. The frame is so wrong that I substituted a modified AMT 32 Vicky frame. I got this far with it.

Looks good. Good choice on the AMT '32 Victoria frame too. The AMT Phaeton frame also has a separate buggy-spring rear end.

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The body isn't too bad, but I really dont oppositee thickness of the top insert. Adding a section to the body sides to get the right proportions is simple. The frame is so wrong that I substituted a modified AMT 32 Vicky frame. I got this far with it.

Image result for milner's revenge

Nice looking,did you add to the width of the body or opposite of sectioning?....Chris

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Nice looking,did you add to the width of the body or opposite of sectioning?....Chris

That's exactly like it comes in the kit. Comparing the 3 bodies side to side, the AMT is about 3 scale inches shorter at the cowl than the MPC version, which is around a 1 shorter than the Revell. I am so used to the AMT kit, having built a dozen or more since '62, that the correctly proportioned Revell kit looks funny to me. 

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Let's review and elaborate on some points

The "More American Graffiti" kit is derived from the Switchers kits. Many of the parts are the same as the Switchers kits.

The top in the MPC Graffiti kit is chopped, not the body. A "chopped" body would be referred to as "sectioned"

Unfortunately, the lower body isn't proportioned correctly either. The ancient AMT '32 body shell was too short (height-wise) and appeared "sectioned". The Revell '32 body shells are about right height-wise, and the MPC '32 kits are somewhere in between.

The frames in all the Switchers and Switchers-derived kits are completely and totally wrong for a '32 Ford. If the Milner car is on a '32 frame, I believe you'll need to source one elsewhere. The Revell '32 frames are pretty good, but you may have to change the rear suspension if you want accuracy. As I said, I've never researched the Milner car specifically.

The rear bobbed fenders are easy to make just like real ones are...you just cut down the stock rear '32 fenders.

Cycle front fenders are available in several kits, including this one...   Image result for amt 27 tall T kit

They can also be made just like real ones often were by cutting down a "continental" style tire cover.

To get a "chopped" radiator shell, you simply take a section out of the stock unit.

 

Thank you Bill for the info,as you probaby already know..I don't know alot about street rods and body work.so thank you for all the info.I hear ya about Milners car.the sectioning is taking away.so if your going to add to the the heigth from door window to bottom of door..whats that called?

also,if I make this car.I'll need several kits..right?...so what would be the best place to start.I don't know enouch to chop a top 3 scale inches out of a 32 Ford top.I believe I could section a body though.what kits would I need?...thank you....Chris

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That's exactly like it comes in the kit. Comparing the 3 bodies side to side, the AMT is about 3 scale inches shorter at the cowl than the MPC version, which is around a 1 shorter than the Revell. I am so used to the AMT kit, having built a dozen or more since '62, that the correctly proportioned Revell kit looks funny to me. 

thank you,so the revell as far as body is tge way to go? what about frame?.....Chris

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Thank you Bill for the info,as you probaby already know..I don't know alot about street rods and body work.so thank you for all the info.I hear ya about Milners car.the sectioning is taking away.so if your going to add to the the heigth from door window to bottom of door..whats that called?

also,if I make this car.I'll need several kits..right?...so what would be the best place to start.I don't know enouch to chop a top 3 scale inches out of a 32 Ford top.I believe I could section a body though.what kits would I need?...thank you....Chris

I may have confused you further. Sounds like it.

You'd probably do OK by starting with the kit you posted earlier    s-l400-3.jpeg                                                                                                               as it has about the right body and roof proportions to start with, and PROBABLY has the bobbed rear and cycle front fenders in it.

A better frame would come from any of the Revell '32 Ford kits, or from either the AMT '32 Victoria or Phaeton kit.  Image result for amt 1932 ford victoria          Image result for amt phaeton    

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A better frame would come from any of the Revell '32 Ford kits, or from either the AMT '32 Victoria or Phaeton kit.  Image result for amt 1932 ford victoria          Image result for amt phaeton  

Disagree about the frames on the AMT '32s. They don't look all that much like a real '32 Ford frame. The Revell one is good, as is the extra '32 frame in the "new" '29.

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Disagree about the frames on the AMT '32s. They don't look all that much like a real '32 Ford frame. The Revell one is good, as is the extra '32 frame in the "new" '29.

Actually, the AMT frames look very much like real '32 frames, but they lack the "reveal" stamped into the side and have completely incorrect floors.

The "extra' frames in the new Revell '29 and '30 are pinched and zeed in the rear, much different from stock.

The other Revell '32 frames are not set up for a buggy-spring in the rear, where the AMT Vicky and Phaeton have it at least molded separately (the AMT roadster and 5-window coupe frames have the blobular molded-in-one rear suspension).

There's a fair bit of info on the AMT frames in question here...

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/59708-32-ford-roadster-gluebomb-rework-sept-8-15-back-on-track/?page=1

And here:

The AMT frames are dimensionally correct and as such, fit under the Revell fender unit like they were all measured and scaled by adults that passed elementary school arithmetic, too. (this is an AMT Vickie body with the wrong dimensions being corrected, mounted on the Revell fenders, and an AMT frame)

DSCN0594_zps77b85371.jpg

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Sounds like one might have to piece together an accurate frame from 2 or 3 different kits, it one wanted a really good one.

If I'm building a fendered car, almost any of them will do.

If I'm building a highboy hot rod, either Revell frame will work for me, as I'm not worried about the stock rear suspension.

The simple box frame of the MPC will work fine for my Altered.

But then I'm not really that much of a '32 Ford guy. I'm sure others know--and care--much more about all things '32 than I do. B)

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I just like to see accurate information presented. Your statement that " the frames on the AMT '32s.... don't look all that much like a real '32 Ford frame" isn't particularly accurate.

If we're giving advice to someone, it's generally more helpful to give accurate advice.

Otherwise, I agree with your statements entirely.  :D

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Well, they don't look all that good to me, due to their lack of those "reveals" on the sides. They look simple and toylike to me.

I agree, in that the reveals are actually visible and important styling-elements of the 1:1 car if it's a highboy or full-fendered build. The frame IS quite good in dimensions and shape though, so with some effort, it's entirely possible to take it to a non-toylike level.  :D

DSCN6763.jpg

DSCN6764.jpg

DSCN6761.jpg

 

 

 

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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Sorry to have cause trouble..I didn't mean that.just learning about things I don't know about.If need be I can use email or messenger.if that or other ways are better for ya both..just let me know.

now back to class.

Question 

1.what is a "reveal"

2.what does zeed and pinched frame mean

3.why is one frame better then another as far as brands Revell,AMT,plusses and negatives.

4.whats difference in whether a full fender or highboy.

5.whats the buggy springs mean.

Thank you for the help.Bill and Richard and any others......Chris

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I just like to see accurate information presented. Your statement that " the frames on the AMT '32s.... don't look all that much like a real '32 Ford frame" isn't particularly accurate.

If we're giving advice to someone, it's generally more helpful to give accurate advice.

Otherwise, I agree with your statements entirely.  :D

Bill what does your statement mean?..don't understand

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