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1968 Shelby Green Hornet-----Update! 8/4/18


MrObsessive

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Nice......don't forget to scribe in the fender to cowl seams that AMT left off.

 

I knew there was something I was forgetting.............thanks! I had this in mind to do this a couple weeks ago, I even meant to write it down and forgot anyway. Yeah, that's a BIG miss on the original body, and it's funny that on the original that I did 20 years ago, I believe that's one of the first things I did------scribe in those cowl panel lines. ;)

Interesting on the '67 Shelby body, they're missing on that too! :huh:

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It took me a bit, but I caught up on this build last night and this morning and all I can say is "fantastic"

Great work, and I always appreciate a builder who can not only take the time to document what they are doing but do it in a way that is understandable so others can learn as well. I picked up a few things to use on my own builds. Thanks for sharing!

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  • 4 months later...

I haven't forgotten or neglected this one! I went through a bit of a modeling slump a few months ago, that's when I decided to rescue a neglected old build to pull out of the slump, and then went on to make the 3D printed '58 Plymouth 318 Poly Head engine. 

Well, things are getting back to normal with me, so I've got some new progress on the Green Hornet. The engine has since been painted and is now getting detailed. I want to try and get this as close to the 1:1 as possible, but I understand with scale limitations (and my own) that's not going to be totally possible.

Here's what's up so far................

Got the engine painted in the correct Ford Blue. I like to put things like this in the dehydrator to let the paint get thoroughly dry. A lot of handling this'll get as there's quite a bit of detail that'll be done.

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Tranny now painted too------Polly Scale Engine Black I used for this.

Since this was an experimental electronic fuel injected engine, I needed to make the individual injectors that the Green Hornet's engine has. I just took some wire insulation and made eight separate "T's".

CA glue was used for this. On the bottom end of the T, I put in a stem of .020 bead wire in which the bottom ends will feed into the intake manifold.

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So that I can figure out which one goes into which port with the spacing I had figured out (l want all the injectors to be of the same height), I arranged them on a 3x5 card and taped them on with some double sided tape.

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Sometimes I get ahead of myself and forget to take pics of what I'm doing, but as you see here, I got the engine all wired up now with the injectors and fuel runners all installed. The runners were painted with those Molotow silver paint markers..............good stuff!

Take note of the injector's very tiny brass nuts on each end (from Small Parts and Hardware).

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Now it's on to the tedious part of making separate pulleys, brackets, and attaching all of this to the engine! :o

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OK, now it's on to the fun stuff!  (Almost..........) 

Thanks for lookin'!

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Bill, have you thought of using the H brass material and making guides for the door glass that go top to bottom in the door and by using sort of leg shapes on the ends of the "glass" (or a lower channel the glass would sit in like on a lot of 1:1 cars) and let the pin on the arm slide in a slot on the bottom of the glass holder? Like I mentioned, there are a lot of full size cars that don't even have the vent window for a guide that use a setup basically like this. The second generation Camaro comes to mind right away., by the way, love the subject matter. 

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OK , you people are insane! That's just unbelievable. Thought I'd enjoy modeling again but compared to this and what everybody else is doing I realize I haven't a clue on building models! Ya'll are amazing! Embarrassed to show mine now.

Maybe one day I can build a decent one, but I got to say this one is just a mind blower!

One question, how do you know where to put the gears on the door panel?

Watching all of you, you amaze me. Keep up the work! 

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Bill, have you thought of using the H brass material and making guides for the door glass that go top to bottom in the door and by using sort of leg shapes on the ends of the "glass" (or a lower channel the glass would sit in like on a lot of 1:1 cars) and let the pin on the arm slide in a slot on the bottom of the glass holder? Like I mentioned, there are a lot of full size cars that don't even have the vent window for a guide that use a setup basically like this. The second generation Camaro comes to mind right away., by the way, love the subject matter. 

Delton, I was going to to do roll up windows on this, but looking at where I am now, and the time frame I'd like to get this done, I'm going to forego that. I'm at a point in my model building life that I'm "devolving" from doing working features on small scales, and want to focus more on correcting/modifying body contours, and static detail. 

I had did something like what you described.......................

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But, I didn't like the way the window "cranked" (only one revolution of the crank for up and down), and had tried a reduction gear setup. I still wasn't happy with that, so I decided that if I'm ever to get this done in a halfway reasonable amount of time, I'd better just let that go, and move on. In the future, I'll be doing some bigger scale stuff (1/16+) and I'll definitely get back into the working features mode then. The eyesight ain't what it used to be either, and that at times that takes its toll-------even with the static tiny details. ;)

OK , you people are insane! That's just unbelievable. Thought I'd enjoy modeling again but compared to this and what everybody else is doing I realize I haven't a clue on building models! Ya'll are amazing! Embarrassed to show mine now.

Maybe one day I can build a decent one, but I got to say this one is just a mind blower!

One question, how do you know where to put the gears on the door panel?

Watching all of you, you amaze me. Keep up the work! 

Well thanks for the compliment! I like that! :lol:

Don't be embarrassed to show what you're building............if there's any questions where you're bogged down, don't hesitate to ask! One of us will be more than willing to help out!

As far as gear placement? Most of what I do is trial and error. I can tell by looking at a particular part most of the time, if I'm going to have enough clearance to make the part work the way I'd like. But, it doesn't always work out that way!

Thanks for the encouragement!

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Sometimes I can get stuck on a particular detail for a number of days, and then there's the trying out of different techniques to get the desired result. 

In this case, I was bogged down on engine pulleys as the 428 engine for the  Green Hornet has a number of things on it which require a certain type of pulley. The ones I tried to make using the kits pieces just weren't working out........they kept breaking and the grooves looked out of sorts and just bad to me.

I had some turned ones which were of the dual type that I needed, and while they were nice, they seemed a bit "small" as far as the overall diameter and I decided not to use those. 

What to do?? Well, I didn't feel like ordering ones online as I'd like to see in person just how they look (pics can be deceiving), and I figured the best way would be to simply make my own.

I don't have a lathe (well, actually I do but it's not in working order), so I brainstormed the idea of making pulleys out of telescoping tubing.

As you see here there are four different sizes that I'm using--------9/32", 7/32, 5/32, and 3/32.

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I want the "walls" of the pulley's to be roughly 1/64" wide. Any thinner than that and there's the risk of the MEK that I use to glue things will make a mess. I first drew a faint pencil line, and then using this K&S tubing cutter, scored a slight line in the largest tubing.

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I then took a file, and filed down to roughly 1/64" of the scored line. 

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Using fan belt material given to me by Norm Veber, I spaced the walls according to how wide the fan belt material is. BTW, this fan belt material is actually a rubbery elastic type material. I don't know where Norm got it, but it's the same kind of material he gives you in his fan belts for his Ferrari V-12 engine kits. I have enough of it to last the rest of my modeling lifetime, and to me, this is in scale enough without looking overbearing. ;)

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OK, I tried to make the walls as straight and even as possible on the 7/32 tubing, and set the tubing on the mat (the surface is raised slightly) and cut off the pulley.

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The core was filled in with 5/32, and then 3/32 solid rod. This will help as I turn this in my Dremel Moto-Tool to clean up the grooves slightly.

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And here are the pulleys mocked up on the engine so far.............the upper pulley was done the same way-----just a slightly smaller diameter. The metal crankshaft damper behind the lower pulley is a turned aluminum piece. These will all be painted black before it's all said and done.

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I wanted to test fit this in the engine bay to make sure I have enough room so that there's no "crashing" of the fan against the radiator and its bulkhead.

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Oops! Looking very closely as pics I have of a 428 engine, I needed an extra pulley for the upper one. This pulley is for the thermactor pump on the passenger side of the engine, which I have to make a bracket for.

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That's all I've got for now! More work to do! :D

Edited by MrObsessive
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Dang, you're good. I look everyday for a new post and photos from you. That's the problem I've been trying to figure out on my '62 Dodge. Where the tubing come from? Great, amazing work. I really enjoy watching

Thanks Terry! :D

I forgot to mention the brand name for the tubing..............it's basic Evergreen tubing, and any good hobby shop should carry it. If they don't, pound on the counter and demand they do! :lol:

Seriously though.............I try to keep plenty of oddball sizes like that on hand for situations like this. One can't have too many supplies!

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I'll second that, I spent $60 on Evergreen last time I was in a real hobby shop and could actually look/touch the sizes I needed.

If only Evergreen would make hex rod in various sizes like that other company.

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