Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Rolls Royce "balloon car"


Harry P.

Recommended Posts

Still adding engine details. But getting close to finished...I'd say I'm about 80% there at this point...

14_zpsssuilpsk.jpg

15_zpssixehcxp.jpg

16_zpsdgvjuici.jpg

The hardest part for me is working this small. Yes, the model is "large scale" (1/16), but some of those engine details are tiny. I scratchbuilt the wiring looms on the exhaust side of the engine, and the one just above the distributor... they aren't included in the kit. The ignition wires are painted heavy thread to simulate the cloth-covered ignition wires seen on cars of the era.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Harry....Harry....Harry  You are building  a car that I built about 20 years ago. As for the material that you thread the wheels with, mine look as good as the day I finished them. This is a car that was built way before any thought of doing research on the car itself was any consideration on my part. While yours will make mine look like it was built by someone of lesser skills(and it was),I still have visions or nightmares of lacing those wheels. All in all it was fun. Gary

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Putting aside the engine for the moment... let's work on the steering box. Remember, I modified the front axle to allow for poseable wheels, so the steering box will also need to be modified in order for the Pitman arm to move. First step is to cut off the molded-in arm and using a razor saw and sharp X-acto, cutting a slot into the bottom of the steering box...

Next, a new arm needs to be made of sheet styrene and drilled on both ends...

Finally, I drilled a hole through the steering box and used a brass pin as a pivot for the Pitman arm. A drop of CA on the head of the brass pin holds it in place. Now all I need to do is paint the completed steering box steel and install on the frame rail.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lots of progress since my last post. The chassis is very nicely detailed and went together without a hitch except for the driveshaft, which was about 1/8" too short. A bit of styrene solved that problem; otherwise everything else fit very well. The chassis has lots of little separate detail parts... just the way I like it! :D

The front axle stubs are white because I had modified the axle to allow for poseable steering... so I had to remove the molded-in stubs and replace them with styrene rod... remember? ;)

22_zpsz7q9gzhi.jpg

20_zpswzxwq1nd.jpg

21_zpsr9rblmtv.jpg

The fenders have some sort of "leather" like texture molded into them... I guess the real car had some sort of leather or fabric-covered fenders? Strange. But the texture is definitely there and not a mistake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, the kit's front fenders also have this molded-in texture, which is probably incorrect (front fenders would have been steel). But I'm too lazy to fix it... going to live with it as is.

In either case, I would assume that, as patent leather, the fenders would be somewhat shiny though not glossy, as seen on the recreation at the Sotheby's site.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Superb work harry, I built this car 20 odd yrs ago (obviously not to this standard) but I remember enjoying it loads, I wish bandi would re release some of these older kits, personally I think they would stand up against some of the more modern kits

Edited by kpnuts
Link to comment
Share on other sites

:D You're doing your usual beautiful job of bringing plastic to life with all your added detail and textures. Glad to see you building, and I hope we'll be seeing your inspiring work for many years to come.

The painted thread to represent old fabric-covered wires is sheer genius.  B)

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ordinarily I would replaced the kit's plastic floorboards with real wood, but in this case the floorboards are molded in a fairly convincing "wood" color, so I thought I'd try to work with the kit piece and see what I can do to improve it...

26_zpskiwocgmo.jpg

I stained the piece, added a black wash to bring out the joint lines, and finally gave it all a coat of matte clear. The finished product looks passable as "wood," and was much easier than scratchbuilding a new frame and floorboards of real wood.

27_zpsgop1zarq.jpg

28_zpsrxmmyvac.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...