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60's Banger Geek '27 T Touring - Updated 10/13/18


Dennis Lacy

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  • 2 years later...

UPDATE!

So I haven't worked on this project for over 3 years, so what?! LOL!!!

Pretty recently there's been some 1927 T Touring hot rods pop up on this forum by the likes of @alan barton and @tim boyd Their models got me to remembering that I had a pretty cool start on a '27 T Touring languishing in the wasteland of ignored projects under my bench so I dug it out and had a look. As I started to check out the work I had already done and start mocking things up it got the creative juices flowing again and as it usually happens with a long ignored project, I decided to make some changes. 

I had actually stolen all of the hot rod parts for the Model A engine that I was previously going with leaving just an engine block and trans. I really wasn't feeling the 'Banger anymore so I decided to see what else might be a good fit. As it turned out the Flathead/C4 auto trans combo from Revell's '32 Sedan fell on the existing frame mounts like it was meant to be! All I needed to do was add some spacer columns on top of the existing frame mounts to set the engine height.

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With the Flathead fit in place it was time to select it's parts. I kept the finned Edelbrock heads and 2x3 intake from the '32 Sedan but went with a trio of the Stromberg carbs with curved scoops from Ed Roth's Tweedy Pie T. I substituted a stock top mount generator belt/pulleys from Revell's stock 1940 Ford's and squeezed in a mini alternator from the 5.0 Ford engines in all the Revell '32 kits. The headers are a pair of passenger side from Revell's '48 Ford's so that they are symmetrical as the drivers side headers all have a hitch in them to fit around the steering gear box. I also decided to ditch the original radiator/shell and substituted the much nicer shaped/detailed shell and radiator from the Tweedy Pie which dropped right into place like it was meant to be.

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With the engine fit and its parts collected it was time to make a new dual exhaust. After digging through my Ziploc bag 'o pipes and offering up many different pieces I finally found that with a little tweaking I could make the front sections from AMT's '41 Ford Woody work. At the front where the pipes offset I had to remove some material to make the offset less and at the rear I made some slightly larger tips from 3/32" tube. I was able to take advantage of the existing round tube member that was used to hang the original single exhaust from by making new hangers and installing new studs in it. The tips were cut off at the center of the rear spring.

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I also reworked the trans mount area of the frame K-member by trimming off the little hump with bolt detail and sliding it forward under the actual trans mounting pad then removed the rest of the unneeded rear hanging mass for a cleaner look. A loose K-member is shown for comparison.

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A few more details. I added a Revell '48 Ford master cylinder and '40 Ford voltage regulator to the firewall. On the inside I added a basic support and swing pedal from AMT's '29 Roadster with the clutch pedal cut off. With the dashboard in place the ugly support can't be seen.

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At this point I'm really close to having all of the necessary fab work done which means it's really close to being able to paint. Looks like this will be the next model I get finished!

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10 hours ago, Bullybeef said:

@Dennis Lacy your reworking of this project is inspiring, I had really been digging the banger 4 idea, and then bam flathead🙌🏻. What type of glue are you using for your mock-up? I meant to ask that before but I forgot.

 

Thanks. I like it a whole bunch better with the Flathead! 
 

For mock ups I hardly use any glue. I’m in the habit of installing mounting pins in as many parts as possible. Allows for repeated mock ups and everything goes back exactly every time. When I have to use glue I will use a dab of Elmers white craft glue which barely holds so parts can be pulled free effortlessly and any residue just rubs off. 

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UPDATE!

A little bit more done.

I had already made upper front shock mounts but the lowers needed some tweaking. I installed .040" rod into the existing mounts on the bottom of the axle and then made some spacer sleeves slightly narrower than 1/16" to slip over the rod. The lower shock eyes were then drilled to slip over the new studs in the axle.

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I made an upper steering hoop arm out of one of the front suspension a-arms in Revell's 1937 Ford kits and added a steering pitman arm (found in AMT's Double Dragster set) coming out of the side of the body implying that there is a sprint car style steering gear box up inside the cowl. A little spacer fairing was made out of 1/8" tubing. I will wait to make the steering drag link rod until after the body is permanently attached to the chassis so I can get the length perfect.

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Getting closer!

 

Edited by Dennis Lacy
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On 3/2/2021 at 11:13 PM, Dennis Lacy said:

Thanks. I like it a whole bunch better with the Flathead! 
 

For mock ups I hardly use any glue. I’m in the habit of installing mounting pins in as many parts as possible. 

Nice work! I’m also a fan of pinning everything together. Joe Cavorley taught me that many years ago!

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What an inspiring build you have going here Dennis! Your fab skills are impeccable! I’ve been dabbling in the hot rods a little more since my last 32 build and your details on this have my head spinning with creative ideas. Your suspension and exhaust details are fantastic! Just when I thought your build couldn’t get any better, you added the Flathead V8! Love it! Very nice work Sir!  I will be eagerly watching your progress on this. Thanks for sharing! Now I just have to find some time to build myself! 

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16 hours ago, Dave72 said:

What an inspiring build you have going here Dennis! Your fab skills are impeccable! I’ve been dabbling in the hot rods a little more since my last 32 build and your details on this have my head spinning with creative ideas. Your suspension and exhaust details are fantastic! Just when I thought your build couldn’t get any better, you added the Flathead V8! Love it! Very nice work Sir!  I will be eagerly watching your progress on this. Thanks for sharing! Now I just have to find some time to build myself! 

Thank you for all of the kind words! Sometimes what a project needs is to sit for a while (or in this case 3 years!) and come back to it with some fresh perspective. I love a hot rodded ‘Banger but I think the Flathead makes the whole car better. And for the most part (except the block and trans) the ‘Banger lived on in another model that I finished last year. 

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15 hours ago, larman said:

This is such a great model! I love the stance and I think the switch to the flathead is a great move. It's going to be really cool when it's done.

Thanks! I think you’re right, the Flathead just looks right in there. Was the shot in the arm I needed to keep going. 

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11 hours ago, alan barton said:

So, so cool!  I'm trying to lift myself to your standard but I'm not there yet! The precision of your fabrication - words fail me!

cheers

Alan

Thanks, Alan. Too kind of you! My fabrication wasn’t always so successful. I feel like only in the last few years I’m finally building models that I’m satisfied with. 

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9 hours ago, Dennis Lacy said:

Thank you for all of the kind words! Sometimes what a project needs is to sit for a while (or in this case 3 years!) and come back to it with some fresh perspective. I love a hot rodded ‘Banger but I think the Flathead makes the whole car better. And for the most part (except the block and trans) the ‘Banger lived on in another model that I finished last year. 

 

9 hours ago, Dennis Lacy said:

Thank you for all of the kind words! Sometimes what a project needs is to sit for a while (or in this case 3 years!) and come back to it with some fresh perspective. I love a hot rodded ‘Banger but I think the Flathead makes the whole car better. And for the most part (except the block and trans) the ‘Banger lived on in another model that I finished last year. 

Very true statement Dennis! I do that quite often. Leaving something sit for a while does give you a whole new perspective on what you are trying to create from the littlest details you can’t quite figure out how to scratch build to changing the whole direction of the build! I knew I wasn’t the only one that did this from time to time!

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UPDATE!

Finished up fabricating a lot of odds & ends today.

I wasn't happy with the shape and scale thickness of the drag link arm I hung from the cowl last week. The offset in it meant the drag link rod would have to attach in from behind. It also wasn't long enough to make the drag link rod level so I would have had to put an offset bend in it. To remedy all of that I built a new pitman arm from .020" sheet and was then able to tape things together enough to make the drag link which was built from the rod ends cut away from the Revell '32 kit with a new rod made from .040". I also ditched the front 4-link suspension arms and replaced them with more traditional looking hairpin arms from Revell's '32 5-Window Coupe. I modified the ends by thinning, drilling and inserting pins which fit into matching holes on the frame rails.

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After some consideration to different options I decided to mount the new headlights (Revell '29 Roadster) through the side of the radiator shell. I cut away the radiator cap and inserted a small steel pin into it so that it can be painted and installed separately. I also added the 4 flathead hose connections to the radiator.

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I finally made some inner rim halves for the front wheels. They are from Revell's '32 HiBoy Roadster kit with the centers removed and the rims thinned down. 

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I decided to change the rear tires as I felt that the narrow M&H slicks didn't suit the car as it now has a low-slung "sports rod" look. The tires come from Revell's '31 Sedan and have been turned inside out so the whitewall inserts are to the inside (and they will be painted.) You'll have to take my word for it but I did mock the car up with them and it looks a bunch better. Plus, these are ever so slightly taller and wider.

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Out back I mounted a modified Revell '37 Pickup taillight and license plate mount. I installed a piece of 3/32" tube to the back of the body and sanded it to correct the installed angle of the plate and light. The plate/light assembly pins into the tube.

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Lastly, I was looking at the frame and I felt like the center cross member needed a little more detail. I thought and thought and then it hit me. I was able to trim away the back face of the 1932-style cross member found in AMT's modern version of the Ala Kart show rod. This makes the back edge look a little more finished and structural.

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So that's about it for the fabrication work! The chassis, engine and wheel parts are heading into primer this week and I'll get the paint colors I need ordered. I have the color scheme all worked out!

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

UPDATE!

I've been chipping away at getting paint on this thing. As of today all of the engine, wheels and chassis parts are finish painted, except for the frame which is ready for final color but I'm waiting to spray it at the same time as the body as they'll be the same color.  The wheels were finished by first spraying Tamiya Silver Leaf, then brush painting the centers Model Master Jet Exhaust followed by sealing with Tamiya semi-gloss clear. The knock-off's were also sprayed in Silver Leaf but left as-is out of the can.

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And here's the colors. The accent on the engine, axles and other parts above is Tamiya Champagne Gold while the body and frame are going to be Cobalt Green.

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Body and interior heading for primer tomorrow!

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