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1968 Corvette


Psychographic

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My inspiration at this point is a modern Indy car. The first year of the new Indy car to most people were ugly, they hated the rear and side pods. I liked the way they looked, that is until they allowed for the aero packages with the multi tiered spoilers and wings.

 The trailing wheel pods.

 

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With the axle already held in place, positioning the front suspension pieces was a breeze. first up is the lower control arms.

 

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After the cement set up I added the upper control arms and the outer cantilever rods for the coilovers.

 

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The completed front suspension. As you won't see any of it, I was able to leave off the shocks and linkage other than the outer rod.

 

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Edited by Psychographic
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The original concept was interesting and very innovative. This is going to another level. Would the aerodynamics on the leading edge of the rear tire benefit from a pod that leads to the top of the tire ?  Are you adding a rear diffuser also ?  This just got even more interesting .        

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Thanks for the comments everyone.

 

It may look like a lawn mower, but it's a fast lawn mower.

 

I've seen quite a few of Colani's designs, most of them are pretty wild.

 

As for the aerodynamics of the pods, I couldn't tell you. I just build what looks good to me. and yes it will have a rear diffuser.

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I did some quick research on electric drivetrains and found something to follow as a guide. The setup is two motors, an inverter and the batteries. The batteries and inverter are water cooled. The batteries for this will be under the floor of the interior, they won't be seen, so again scratch work that won't need to be done. Here's the start.

 

 

 

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The fabrication of the drivetrain is done. I don't look forward to cleaning this up for paint as it's one assembly, not counting the rear pods. I used the same method for aligning the rear suspension as I did in the front, this meant cementing all the parts together to get everything to line up.

 

 

I also cut the back off so you can see the motors and suspension and started working on the hinges for it. I originally didn't plant to do any more on the rear suspension than I did on the front, but when I looked at the model it was just too plain and needed some detail. I think this will add just enough. As I didn't plan to see any parts of the underside of the body, I didn't worry about it being very smooth. I've got a lot of sanding to do to get it cleaned up.

 

 

 

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Fitting the rear bulkhead.

 

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After cementing the bulkhead in place, I noticed that the angles of the rear body no longer lined up with the main body and it was narrower also. I must have spread the body a bit putting the bulkhead in. After thinking the easiest plan of attack, I decided to just split it down the middle and spread it until it lines up. Then the body was temporarily cemented back together to keep things lined up.

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Filled with some .030 and Styrene Bondo.

 

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Now that the body fit, the back of the bubble was off.

 

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I thought about once again splitting the panel, just not as far back to bring the bubble back into shape. I was afraid when I cut the back off again it would spring into the shape it want's, not what I want and things would not line up. I can't just sand it smooth as there was not enough to work with. Out came the SB and after two coats on the inside, I had enough to roughly sand into shape.

 

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After a buttload of tedious sanding, the inside is pretty close to being ready for primer.

 

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A shot of the tailights and rear vent.

 

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Edited by Psychographic
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As I didn't take pics when I made the first three, I thought I would show you how I made the brake ducts with the last one to be built.

 

I used 1/8" tube, .080x .125 rectangle stock, and some scrap .030 sheet. Here are the pieces, cut and ready to assemble. The tube gets split lengthwise , take one half and split that in two. The short pieces make up the top and bottom of the scoop, the long piece will be the front of the base. Notice one side of the long tube half is notched.

 

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Cement one piece of the .030 to one side of the tube and repeat, you should have two "J" shaped parts.

 

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Now cement the two "J" pieces to make a hoop.

 

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Cement the hoop to the top of the .080x.125 stock.

 

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Cement the final piece to the front of the .080 with the notch fitting into the scoop.

 

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After a little sanding to shape and clean things up, you should have a decent looking duct. Cut it to the length you need and it's ready for body work.

 

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Edited by Psychographic
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The slots I cut in the motors are big enough that some detail will be needed so they don't look like empty cans. I sliced the ends off the motors and made some simple locators to make assembling them easier. I took a smaller diameter tube and notched it to fit inside the motors. I bent some mesh to fit the inside the cans of the motors. Now I can paint the motors inside and out, then assemble them.

 

 

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