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69 pro mod chevelle, chassis started mock ups


mr68gts

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Paul... you are more than welcome.  if you weren't 3 hours away from me I would of been more than  happy to show you things in person. You know I am always here if you need me. On a 2nd note.... I think I may have rubbed off on you of you are tearing down part of the chassis and redoing it ;):lol:.  you could always go yhe brabrass route. I just wish I would of scratch built the whole F/C chassis instead of 95% of it. I know this chassis will be way better going back and redoing it. The hard work will pay off. 

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Back to the drawing board! I had a couple minutes this morning so I redid the print for the chassis floor and main rails. The new hoop is glued into the main chassis and I am waiting on some dimensions to show up, (thanks again!) to set the cross bar in the hoop. I've started machining the insert to properly space the 4 link brackets out the proper distance according to the rear end. Before I know it it's going to be a complete chassis again even though much of the old one I can't use on this version. I can salvage some of the tube though. I need to look at the wheelbase on the body again so I can find the mid plate location according to the 481x I've drawn up. (10% setback from number 1 plug) I'd like to draw up the mid plate to use as a template to cut out in sheet plastic although I may use aluminum sheet instead.

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Hi Paul... I have to give you credit going back and redoing things To me it makes total sense to draw the chassis up and place the engine in to get the midplate location. the time spend up front designing will only help with the fabrication. I know I can't wait to do that on some future projects. I love what you are doing, you are rocking this build for sure. can't wait to see more.

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Hi Paul... I have to give you credit going back and redoing things To me it makes total sense to draw the chassis up and place the engine in to get the midplate location. the time spend up front designing will only help with the fabrication. I know I can't wait to do that on some future projects. I love what you are doing, you are rocking this build for sure. can't wait to see more.

Thanks Chris! It's a bit more time consuming this way however it will be correct and square since it's all engineered on the computer!

Paul

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Paul... Being able to plan and engineer things up front may be  a bit more time consuming but it will allow you to confront some problem areas and address them prior to any building. It would reduce any reworking of some items for sure and once parts are fabricated things should pretty much fit like a glove. There may be a few things that may have to be tweaked but you could always add some extra clearance in a few areas to consider paint and some stack up of items. I am sure reading those books would make your head spin after a while.

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OK, what you are looking at is a "quadrant bolt". What these pesky little suckers do is make it near impossible to get the clutch can on or off when you are in a hurry. There is one is each corner and required on all fuel cars, I believe all alcohol cars (not the kind you drink!) and most if not all pro mods. They are actually in real life 3/4 or larger studs that are pressed into the mid plate and help retain the can in the event of a blow back. Keeps the can where it's supposed to be basically. I've had my fair share of experience with these buggers so what do I do, make em for the model! Ha ha. One down, 3 more to go. I searched the SFI spec for this for a bit to come up with the dimensions and yes it is to print in scale!

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And, I may wind up using my own rear end instead of the TDR one. I will have to machine the spindles for it though to give it some strength. One of the inherent issues with 3d printed parts is there is not a lot of strength in the parts depending on material. What hold the wheels where they need to be is one place I do not want to skimp on material. I'm not to worried about how much the model weighs.

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Thank you Bill. I figure if I am going this far I might as well make it right. It really only takes a little bit more time to build an "accurate" model.

Little bit of an update. I've got the engine placement and wheel base done. I need to change the bell housing up though. The depth is correct but the diameter is off and there are no mid plate studs in the model which correspond to holes in the bell housing obviously. Neat thing about all this cad work is I can even figure out the length of the 4 link bars and build a fixture accordingly! (the real reason I am doing all this cad work! No guessing, just accuracy as long as I follow the map lol)These 4 link brackets are a bit different in that they are more modular but they are the correct height and should alleviate a ton of problems with clearance issues with the driveshaft etc.

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This is amazing. I saw over the weekend a 70's pro stock chassis from TDR printed in 3D in metal.  I ordered one because I want to see how far the technology is progressing. Just to be clear, too cool what you're doing here and something else I'd like to learn.  Sent you a PM btw.   Cheers, Tim

 

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Tim, if you do decide to get into it Ill help you any way I can. Dave, thank you but it is your work that has made me push my own limits. For this I thank you and it is I that should be jealous! So I managed to do the stud placement on the mid plate. I still need to add the coresponding holes for the bell housing bolts and there are 2 vent holes allowed in the mid plate for cooling. Before I print it out on paper I will draw lines through the center of each hole and use it as a template to drill the .02 thick aluminum sheet. Then install the studs or quandrant bolts.

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Paul... that is some grate work you are doing with getting the engine in the chassis and location for the midplate. the midplate looks great as well. I like the idea of printing it out on paper and using the paper template..was going to suggest  printing the midplate and you can use that as a template as well. keep up the great work.

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paul, which bolt pattern are you going to use?  don't know if it helps, the o.d. on the  bell housing is around 14.500" -14.625". just measured one today.

Dave,

I was going to do a Chevrolet pattern, (whats in the modeled mock up) however because I added the 4 studs it will now be a dual pattern 8 5/8 deep. I have a print for the Chrysler pattern also so it should be easy to add. I think I did the diameter at 14 but I'd have to check when I get home tomorrow night.

Paul

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  • 2 weeks later...

So, with the brackets finished up I've uploaded a single part to Shapeways to see about print ability. We will see what they say. I really cannot continue on with the chassis until these are done and in so I will be in hiatus mode finishing up the commission work until these show up. (few things I need to get finished up over the next week)

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  • mr68gts changed the title to 69 pro mod chevelle, chassis started mock ups

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