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Trim painting clean up


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So I don't have any bmf, or any experience with it for that matter. I'm kind of an old school builder in that sense. I've always painted my trim with either semi gloss black, flat black, or chrome silver. In any event I've learned a few tricks to reduce the amount of mess up/clean up involved in doing so. However, though I've learned some better techniques to do this accidents still happen. This being said, how do you clean up a slight goof on a one off paint job without ruining the paint even more? I know I probably should've taped off the paint by the trim but hind sight is always 20/20...

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When doing this kind of work, I always keep some wooden toothpicks handy. They're great for wiping/scraping wet trim paint off if caught immediately.

After it's dried, rubbing alcohol will often work. It's good on enamels but will damage or remove acrylics and Testor lacquers.

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If you are not already doing this, use a sharp #11 blade to outline what ever you are painting. This leaves an almost invisible dividing line to follow with your paint brush. You can even flow a little paint on the molding and it leaves a very distinct line between the molding and the body.    

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If you are not already doing this, use a sharp #11 blade to outline what ever you are painting. This leaves an almost invisible dividing line to follow with your paint brush. You can even flow a little paint on the molding and it leaves a very distinct line between the molding and the body.    


 

Thanks for the tip! I usually do my raised lettering and such with the flat end of my brushes. I dab the end of the brush in the cap and rub it on some newspaper. It'll leave wet paint on the end of the brush and I don't have to worry about having too much. The only down side is if you don't have the brush flat on the lettering there's risk of getting paint where its not supposed to be. 

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Thanks for the tip! I usually do my raised lettering and such with the flat end of my brushes. I dab the end of the brush in the cap and rub it on some newspaper. It'll leave wet paint on the end of the brush and I don't have to worry about having too much. The only down side is if you don't have the brush flat on the lettering there's risk of getting paint where its not supposed to be. 

I think what I was trying to say is not so much lettering detail but for the window and body trim. The small line from the blade creates  a barrier so that the paint does not flow out onto the painted body.  

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I think what I was trying to say is not so much lettering detail but for the window and body trim. The small line from the blade creates  a barrier so that the paint does not flow out onto the painted body.  

Yeah, I routinely do that. No matter how you handle the trim from that point--BMF, silver paint, Silver Sharpie, whatever--it just makes it easier and results in a cleaner-looking job.

It's a little extra time and effort but I find that it's worth it in both process and result.

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When doing this kind of work, I always keep some wooden toothpicks handy. They're great for wiping/scraping wet trim paint off if caught immediately.

After it's dried, rubbing alcohol will often work. It's good on enamels but will damage or remove acrylics and Testor lacquers.

Thank you guys. That makes sense about the windows and other miscellaneous trim. I'll have to try that. 

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Another idea would be to use a postit as a shield. No chance of the adhesive causing problems. 

FABULOUS idea! And if you look a little, you can find the post-it adhesive in glue sticks. You could make your own "post-it masks" from paper, foil, even thin plastic to whatever length or odd shape you might need.

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