Misha Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) Have a question on applying wide whitewalls with decals. Remember someone mentioning the use of Testors Clear Semi Gloss on the tire, then applying the decal. Is this the best way to handle this? I also imagine that one would fit the rim in after spraying and before applying the decal. In regards to the decal itself, I'm using the 5 window Deuce kit decals and they have very little carrier film showing beyond the white. Should I trim as close to the white colour and is there a risk of cracking the white ink if I cut into it? Is it fine to use decal solvent and will it work on tires with raised lettering? This is the wheel combination I'm using on the Chopped Phaeton WIP. Swapped out the centres with Parts by Parks Baby Moons; they sure look sweet! Thanks for the help and hints! Cheers Misha Edited January 18, 2017 by Misha Added comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Have a question on applying wide whitewalls with decals. Remember someone mentioning the use of Testors Clear Semi Gloss on the tire, then applying the decal. Is this the best way to handle this? I also imagine that one would fit the rim in after spraying and before applying the decal. In regards to the decal itself, I'm using the 5 window Deuce kit decals and they have very little carrier film showing beyond the white. Should I trim as close to the white colour and is there a risk of cracking the white ink if I cut into it? Is it fine to use decal solvent and will it work on tires with raised lettering? This is the wheel combination I'm using on the Chopped Phaeton WIP. Swapped out the centres with Parts by Parks Baby Moons; they sure look sweet! Thanks for the help and hints! Cheers Misha I use Tamiya clear on the tire, then apply the decal. After everything is dried I then give it a light coat of Tamiya flat clear. The flat seems to make it a little more realistic looking. Of course you lightly sand the tread before all of this. Use some masking tape to keep the tread rough looking. Again you want to wait for everything to be good and dry before mounting them on the wheels. If you desire a tire with the Armor All look then a light dusting of semi flat might work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misha Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 Thanks David, That's very useful info, I'm going to try the Tamiya products. Good hint about using the masking tape to protect the sanded tread whille painting. So fitting the rim in afterwards works without damage.Thanks again, Misha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
espo Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Thanks David, That's very useful info, I'm going to try the Tamiya products. Good hint about using the masking tape to protect the sanded tread whille painting. So fitting the rim in afterwards works without damage.Thanks again, MishaSo far I haven't had any problems with installing the wheels after I've painted the tires. I should of mentioned that I test fit everything in advance, I kind of thought you already did that anyway. Another thought on the tires. Depending on how the tire surface feels and looks, sometimes I'll let them sit in the Purple Power overnight. I have found that sometimes the tires have like a film on them, not sure why and it isn't on every set. I'm now starting to go to the Round 2's AMT tire packs. They offer both wide white and narrow whites. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTallDad Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Make sure you're using acrylic clear; an oil based paint will probably never dry completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JTalmage Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 I was about to say the same thing. A Tamiya "TS" clear will remain sticky. Same with a Testors/ModelMasters. But for rubber tires, cheap craft store/hobby lobby matte clear will work like a charm. I made that mistake on my '32 Ford Roadster I built a while ago. I painted the sidewalls white, because it had no decals... then cleared them with Tamiya flat clear... it looked great for about a week... but became sticky not long after and hasn't ever dried up completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Misha Posted January 19, 2017 Author Share Posted January 19, 2017 (edited) Thanks for the advice, especially to use an acrylic spray. Going to run a test first on some spare rubber to see thr effect. I was familiar withnusing acrylic on vinyl poeces, such as figures, though wasnt sure about decals, now it seems to make sense to use acrylics for the rubber bits.Thanks to all, Misha Edited January 19, 2017 by Misha spelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigTallDad Posted January 19, 2017 Share Posted January 19, 2017 Krylon offers an acrylic-based flat clear...less than $4 USD at walmart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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