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Improving the Moebius 1965 Mercury Comet


prrtrainguy

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 After purchasing the New 1965 Mercury Comet from Moebius, I discovered a number of small but annoying mistakes in the tooling that I wanted to address. First off, I am Not knocking Moebius or the Kit. It is very well done, all said... and I do appreciate that they released this well needed Mercury kit to fill that missing link from the Older AMT Annuals. My intention is to suggest some options to making a better looking model.

First, the Brake, Clutch and Gas pedals, Part 55 need some improvement. The gas pedal is way too long and the Brake/Clutch pedals too small and stubby. " I used the Revell 1968 Mustang pedals and cemented them to the back of the Moebius pedal mount part. They have the correct look and angle of the factory pedals. For the Gas pedal, I cut off approx. 1/8 inch from the top and kept the angle at the top of the pedal. I mounted it on the Floor pan next to the transmission tunnel. Most all US auto's had Floor Mounted Gas Pedals until the Late 1960's - Early 1970's.

A second issue is the 289 Engine. The Exhaust Manifolds do not look correct, part's 130/131, very Tubular, Not Stock looking. I replaced them with 289 Manifolds from the AMT (Ohio George)1960 Falcon kit. You may also consider the AMT1966 Mustang or AMT1967  Shelby/Mustang kits for these parts. The Moebius Air cleaner is way too thin. I used the AMT 1966 Mustang Chrome Air Cleaner as well as the Stock Chrome Valve Covers from the AMT 1967 Shelby Kit. Moebius provides the Smooth 289 CU Valve Covers, But they are Not Plated. Only the Finned ones are. (See Photo of a 1965 Comet 289 with Chrome Air Cleaner and Stock Chrome Valve Covers) Next, I corrected the Fan by Bending the Blades slightly to get an angle like 40 degrees or so, the Kit Blades are Flat, (No Air moving here) !

Finally, I replaced the Distributor from the AMT 1960 Falcon V8. I cut down between the base and cap and sanded about 1/16th in. off the cap part, then re joined the parts. This way it will clear the Air Cleaner with no problems. I also used the Carburetor from the 67 Mustang/Shelby kit. Last, I sanded off about 1/16 In from the Alternator Shaft cover on the Alternator part. This is over exaggerated and needs to be just a stub.

 

Well that's it so far, I will post additional Info as I make progress on the kit. I have picked MCW 1965 Ford " Silver Smoke Gray", Mercury Pearl Gray Poly) with Testor's " Italian Red" interior with a Darker Red Carpet color, " Testor's Flame Red" for my Model.

 

Please post your Progress, ideas for detailing this kit or any issues you may have encountered.

Happy Modeling !

 

Jan 21,

 More progress today, I added a Blower motor from an old AMT Ford Starter, cut the front off and cemented to the Firewall Heater Box. Also I carefully Cut slots out in the edges of the Firewall so that the Hood can open, using the Kit Hood Hinges. Also Added a spacer to the top of the Four Barrel Carb so that the AMT 66 Mustang Air Cleaner would clear the Distributor slightly and Test fitted the Air Cleaner to confirm that the Hood would Close completely when added.

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Edited by prrtrainguy
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Thanks for the info on the pedals since I'm about to start this kit also. The exhaust manifolds you mention look strangely similar to big block Chevy cast iron manifolds. I built the AMT '61 Ranchero Custom kit recently and the engine in that turned out to be a poor representation of a big block Chevy and not a Ford at all. Do you know if these kits are even related or not ?    

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 "MOEBIUS LOL " How did I miss That !!! Corrected, SORRY !!

 

I built the AMT '61 Ranchero Custom kit recently and the engine in that turned out to be a poor representation of a big block Chevy and not a Ford at all. Do you know if these kits are even related or not ?    

Not Related at all, the Moebius Kit is New Tooling, the 61 Ranchero was an AMT Craftsman Kit which had No Engine, Ertl Cut the Hood Out and added a 289 in the 1990's I think. They forgot to add the Gas Tank, missing since 1961 and added Dual Exhaust's, so a Stock Ranchero Six Cyl. under frame cannot be built from these 289 V8 Kits.

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Looks like you're off to a good start, but while we're on the interior, if you want to get it more correct, the shape of the transmission tunnel isn't really right for a 4 speed Comet. This is the best photo I've been able to find at the moment, but you'll notice that the shifter is set off to the side, there's a bulge on the driver's side to clear the linkage, and the top of the tunnel is flatter than the kit part.

http://southernmotors.com/misc/FileUploads/65cmtbrg4629%200083076.JPG

Also, I see you're a new poster here (welcome!), but this thread would probably be better in the "On the Workbench" section.

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Looks like you're off to a good start, but while we're on the interior, if you want to get it more correct, the shape of the transmission tunnel isn't really right for a 4 speed Comet. This is the best photo I've been able to find at the moment, but you'll notice that the shifter is set off to the side, there's a bulge on the driver's side to clear the linkage, and the top of the tunnel is flatter than the kit part.

http://southernmotors.com/misc/FileUploads/65cmtbrg4629%200083076.JPG

Also, I see you're a new poster here (welcome!), but this thread would probably be better in the "On the Workbench" section.

Steve,

 Thanks for the Interior Shot. Not much we can do with the Transmission hump. I could slice off the Shifter ring and move it left, but I doubt anyone would notice it?  I am however, going to fix that "Billiard Ball" Size shift knob, the kit provides, "it's Huge" ! I found a Tach, from a Revell kit I will use on the Dash. Too Bad Moebius did not supply one.

I also am cutting off the rear wheel axle mounting pins, Drilling them out and adding a Metal Rear Axle. These always tend to break after awhile being handled.

 

Eric

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Here is a Photo of a 65 Comet Firewall, showing the Heater Blower Location. Not sure why this detail was left out. Don't add a wiper motor, I understand from another Forum posting that it was mounted on the Inside of the Firewall

65 Comet Firewall.jpg

Edited by prrtrainguy
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Here is a Photo of a 56 Comet Firewall, showing the Heater Blower Location. Not sure why this detail was left out. Don't add a wiper motor, I understand from another Forum posting that it was mounted on the Inside of the Firewall

Whew, that's a pretty crusty engine bay, but it does show the location of the blower motor. The two holes to the right of the motor are where the heater hoses go through to the heater core.

Here's a shot that I think shows things a little more clearly:

Related image

The shock tower to firewall brace has been removed for restoration, but otherwise this is a basically stock & bare '65 Falcon/Comet engine bay. Major holes (from left to right) are: blower, heater hoses, throttle linkage, and brake master.

Edited by RancheroSteve
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 "MOEBIUS LOL " How did I miss That !!! Corrected, SORRY !!

 

I built the AMT '61 Ranchero Custom kit recently and the engine in that turned out to be a poor representation of a big block Chevy and not a Ford at all. Do you know if these kits are even related or not ?    

Not Related at all, the Moebius Kit is New Tooling, the 61 Ranchero was an AMT Craftsman Kit which had No Engine, Ertl Cut the Hood Out and added a 289 in the 1990's I think. They forgot to add the Gas Tank, missing since 1961 and added Dual Exhaust's, so a Stock Ranchero Six Cyl. under frame cannot be built from these 289 V8 Kits.

I have a mid 70's issue of the ranchero, it has the BBC in it.

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The amt '67 mustang and recent revell sbf's are a great source for engine parts and even the amt front suspension pieces can be adapted for poseable steering. If you're really motivated towards accuracy, think about using the more accurate shock towers from the monogram 65/66 mustang or even the trumpeter falcon engine bay. The 1:1 falcon/comet and mustang shock towers were pretty much the same size and the main reason they sit higher in the mustang engine bay is because the mustang structure was basically a sectioned falcon.

 

mike

 

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The amt '67 mustang and recent revell sbf's are a great source for engine parts and even the amt front suspension pieces can be adapted for poseable steering. If you're really motivated towards accuracy, think about using the more accurate shock towers from the monogram 65/66 mustang or even the trumpeter falcon engine bay. The 1:1 falcon/comet and mustang shock towers were pretty much the same size and the main reason they sit higher in the mustang engine bay is because the mustang structure was basically a sectioned falcon.

 

mike

 

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The inner fenders from the Trumpeter Falcon or Monogram Mustang are also useful for rotating the battery location 90 degrees to the proper location. When I first picked up the Moebius kit, I knew something was off in this area, but I didn't catch the battery until I looked at my references.

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Steve,

 Thanks for the Interior Shot. Not much we can do with the Transmission hump. I could slice off the Shifter ring and move it left, but I doubt anyone would notice it?  I am however, going to fix that "Billiard Ball" Size shift knob, the kit provides, "it's Huge" ! I found a Tach, from a Revell kit I will use on the Dash. Too Bad Moebius did not supply one.

I also am cutting off the rear wheel axle mounting pins, Drilling them out and adding a Metal Rear Axle. These always tend to break after awhile being handled.

 

Eric

The 3 speed on the tree cars had a round transmission tunnel. The 4 speed cars probable had a bolt on or welded on cap that made the hump look flat and made room for the linkage. The whole tunnel was a lot skinnier on the real car than the model.

 

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The 3 speed on the tree cars had a round transmission tunnel. The 4 speed cars probable had a bolt on or welded on cap that made the hump look flat and made room for the linkage. The whole tunnel was a lot skinnier on the real car than the model.

Yes, that's correct - they cut a hole in the tunnel and added a piece on. Here's a link to the reproduction part:

http://www.dearbornclassics.com/transmission-tunnel-hump-4-speed-fiberglass-falcon-ranchero-comet-1962-1965.htm

And here's how it looks in place:

Image result for 1965 falcon 4 speed transmission hump

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That's for an under-dash set of gauges to be included in a later issue as shown below.

-Steve

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Steve,

 Thanks for that info, Too bad that they did not included those gauges in the First release.

Regarding the Dashboard, How did they miss the Heater Controls, Speaker Grill, Defroster Vents and Ash Tray on that part ?

I am getting the impression that some parts of this kit were "Eyeballed" so to speak and not researched thoroughly.

There are number of missing details, many  that a 55 year old AMT would have included. If I did not like Mercury's, I would have skipped this one. Just my opinion.

 

I puttied over the Seat backs today to hide that seam with notches on the Front Seat backs. Filled the Dash hole also. Next I will finish the Chassis and Prime the model.

With the Front Mounted Glass parts I was thinking of Cementing the Glass in Before Painting, Then masking it inside and out. The Bear Metal foil on the moldings should hide the beige color plastic at the attachment points. I want a secure fit of the glass, and dont want to chance ACC fogging of the windows with Super Glue applied.

Any Thoughts on that idea?

 

Eric

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Steve,

 Thanks for that info, Too bad that they did not included those gauges in the First release.

Regarding the Dashboard, How did they miss the Heater Controls, Speaker Grill, Defroster Vents and Ash Tray on that part ?

I am getting the impression that some parts of this kit were "Eyeballed" so to speak and not researched thoroughly.

There are number of missing details, many  that a 55 year old AMT would have included. If I did not like Mercury's, I would have skipped this one. Just my opinion.

 

I puttied over the Seat backs today to hide that seam with notches on the Front Seat backs. Filled the Dash hole also. Next I will finish the Chassis and Prime the model.

With the Front Mounted Glass parts I was thinking of Cementing the Glass in Before Painting, Then masking it inside and out. The Bear Metal foil on the moldings should hide the beige color plastic at the attachment points. I want a secure fit of the glass, and dont want to chance ACC fogging of the windows with Super Glue applied.

Any Thoughts on that idea?

 

Eric

Welcome to the world of replica stock modeling on this board. I am working on the same kit, and I am encountering the same "foibles" within the kit that you are, and like you, I am dealing with them as best I can, making modifications and substitutions as I go. While this kit is not perfect, I can wholehearted say that it is far better than the '65 AMT annuals I built back in the day.

In the case of the kit glass, I am going to treat mine as a separate assembly. detailing it out, then installing it into the painted and polished body. In the case of installing the kit glass, I plan to use watch crystal cement to secure the windshield, vent windows and rear glass in the car. It dries clear, and doesn't fog. but you have to be very careful in its application, as it will smear and ruin the part..

 A lot of the observations and suggestions we get from members who are more well versed with the subject matter are very welcome.

I am enjoying your thread very much. I just hope that our builds do not end up as twins!

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