1:18 E Production MGB Roadster

[tedd60]

If this diecast build is not proper for this thread, please move it to the correct place.  It's on my work bench so I put it here.

30 years ago, I raced E Production MGB's.  Over the years I've owned over 60 MGB's and still have a 1970 MGB GT.  I guess you could say I'm an MG enthusiast.

When the Corgi diecast version came out, I bought 2 of them in the hopes of building a replica of my second racer and maybe do one of my first racer (which I rolled at Bridgehampton) and paint it as it was when I was doing road rallies with it.

I think some parts of the Corgi die cast stacks up fairly well against the Kyoscho and Auto Arts versions ... but most if it is really pretty dismal.  As seen, I stripped off the paint and de-chromed the body.

My car had an aluminum finned valve cover, so I scratched one out of aluminum and turned a cap for it.

I have tried for 20 years to find a set of minilites for this build.  I tried scratch building one to make a mold from, but couldn't quite get it.  After lurking here I while, I took a chance and placed a post.  AFX sold me a set ... and here I am.  Not *exactly* minilites, but close enough.

I ran 2 in. S.U. carbs on my car.  I modified the velocity stacks from a set of Weber side drafts.  I built this set a long time ago.  The odd color on the engine is engine paint for late 60's MGB's.  The color seen in the next picture down is a better representation.  I got 12 cans of this paint from Moss Motors when I had my last repair shop over 20 years ago ... and it's still good. 

The tops on the SU's and the spark plugs are bits of Allen wrenches that I modified on my lathe.  The distributor, oil filter and pulleys are also turnings.  The sparkly stuff on the block is just dust.  I know there is a lot of touching up to do and one of the plugs is in backwards.  Blame it on my 66 year old eyes and cheap glasses.

The chassis wasn't bad, but a lot of stuff, like the molded in center console and the 4 inch thick floor had to go.  My racer had no heater ... and a lot of the stuff in the engine bay just wasn't correct.  It's almost all gone.

The MGB has a unibody instead of a chassis ... but Corgi left out a whole lot ... so I'm making adjustments.  I'm trying to decide if i should try to grind off the fuel and brake lines and do it right.  More to come here.

Just like the real thing, the seat in the Corgi MGB is TERRIBLE for a race car.  On the real car, I used a seat out of a 914 Porsche.  For this build, I scratched up something out of aluminum and bits of plastic to hold me in the car better.

Another shot of the valve cover.

Edited February 5, 2017 by tedd60

[Phildaupho]

When it is completed, having a model of your old racecar will make it all worthwhile plus you are going to have a lot of fun along the way. You have certainly made a good start.

[tedd60]

When it is completed, having a model of your old racecar will make it all worthwhile ...

Thankyou.  Like a lot of other guys, I started collecting 1:18 scale cars a long time ago.  I guess I have about 200 now.  I knew that a lot of them were not very good models, but back then I didn't have the time to build, so they filled a void for me.  But I kept looking at them and shaking my head.  Now I'm retired and have the time.  If this one works out, it could be the start of getting some of those diecast squared away.  I see a lot of possibilities for 1960's vintage SCCA Trans Am cars.  I like 1:18 scale especially now since my eyes are getting older.  It's not to small ... not to big.

Over the past couple years I've been thinking about scratchbuilding a Morgan 3 wheeler, I've had a set of measured drawings for some time now.  I'm also looking at the diecast VW bugs I have and see a couple possibilities.  This AM I printed out the section of the 2012 SCCA GCRs having to do with Formula Vee specs.  I'm going to get a vacuum form and start experimenting to see if I can form body panels.

[espo]

I like how you're going about this build. You have a lot of personal experience to guide you. On your Minilites, I bought a wheel set from GMP years ago. They had two complete sets of wheels and tires. My intent is to use the Minilite set for an SCCA '69 Camaro. They are painted yellow and have Good Year treaded racing tires. The set also included American Torque Thrusts with gray spokes and Firestone racing tires. I don't even know if GMP is still around or if they are part of another company now. They used to have a web site www.gmpdiecast.com The part #9021 is what I had picked up. The wheels are beautiful, I hope this may help you find the wheels you're looking for.   

[tedd60]

Thanks Espo, that's something to look into.  Trying to find 14 in, four bolt minilites is REAL tough.

That being said, on this thread I mentioned that I made spark plugs (and also some aeroquip fittings) from allen wrenches.  I didn't do that just to use metal ... I simply had NO idea that hex shaped styrene (or other plastic) was available.  It's amazing what I have learned since I've been lurking here.

Guys into 1:18 scale are somewhat at a disadvantage because they do now have the riches of after market, ready made parts.  When I look at all the resin and photoetch stuff for 24th, 25th, 48th and 32nd scale I just wanna cry.  I've been searching for this stuff in 18th scale, but haven't come up with much.

I DID find some safety harness hardware that is gonna save me a LOT of work ... so I know some stuff is around.

I've started a thread down at the Diecast and Resin cast Models section of this forum to help 1:18th guys find upgrade parts, detail kits and accessories in that scale.

If anybody knows where these things (but NOT scratch building stuff) may be found, I'm sure that the 1:18th scale community would appreciate if they shared the info on that thread. 

 

 

Thanks

T

 

 

 

 

 

Edited February 5, 2017 by tedd60

[belfast boyo]

That reminds me of a friends 64 Midget ( a cali re-import..) with a 1275 engine,man that wee critter was tail happy even in the dry!

Edited February 4, 2017 by belfast boyo
typo..

[tedd60]

That reminds me of a friends 64 Midget ( a cali re-import..) with a 1275 engine,man that wee critter was tail happy even in the dry!

I would LOVE an MG Midget in 1:18th, but I don't think anyone makes one.  In American Club racing (SCCA, H Production, as I recall), they were as common and plentiful as Formula Vee cars.  I know somebody makes an Austin frog-eyed Sprite (to us in the US they were "bug eye" Sprites).  Perhaps I'll save up and get one someday.

The Austin "A" engine was released in 11 or 12 displacements, from 803 to 1275 cc's.  I guess HP ranged from about 25 to 90.  This little engine got installed into many, many vehicles over the years.  Over here we got Midgets with 1500 cc's. from about 1974 to the end of production.  The larger engine came from the Triumph Spitfire and was necessary to carry the weight of ugly bumpers and emission controls.

 

I really was crazy for the MGB, but have always loved Brit cars.  I've owned a Hillman Minx (Series III), a couple Austin Marinas and a P-6 Rover 2002 TC.  I see that the  P-6 Rover 3500 is available in 1:18th scale.  It's pretty much the same car, the difference being that aluminum block 215 V8.

The 2" S.U.'s on my MGB came from a derelict Rover.

Edited February 5, 2017 by tedd60

[belfast boyo]

Austin Marina,they were always a Morris over here.The Spridget was just a toy for Phil,he bought it after coming home from Iraq! my dad owned a 'fleet' of Rover P6s in the 70s.

They were great cars to travel in as  kid,the seperate seats in the back were brill as a sprog,we would do many trips on vacation and they would just eat the miles up.

Edited February 4, 2017 by belfast boyo
typo!

[tedd60]

Rovers weren't uncommon over here ... its just that there weren't many of them around .   Mine was black, black roof, black interior.  A GREAT car, strong, sturdy and agile.

I see that somebody is selling them in 1:18, but it ain't the real thing.  It doesn't have the Icelert on the bumper.

 

[tedd60]

I read with some disappointment that there is some bias against die-cast builders and models:  http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/topic/51882-the-anyone-can-polish-a-diecast-story-part-ii/

I can't imagine for the life of me why that should be.  As much as I like 1:18 scale, I have to admit that the models are not very good and in many respects much worse than the stuff I used to see when I built 1/25.  Also, the aftermarket and resin casters don't offer much in this scale, so trying to get one of these cars even close to reasonable takes a LOT more work than other scales.  Think of the time spent just carving out and filling in all the screw holes and mounting posts these things have.

MGB's are built on a uni-body, they don't really have a "chassis" as such, but let's call this part the "chassis" anyoldways.  The chassis on this Corgi MGB was pretty bad, especially the area around the rear clip.  Just so I can install the tube shocks, rear swaybar and panhard rod that was on my racer.I ended up carving away lot more than I planned,   Here's the chassis after the work and one coat of paint.  Just a little more prettying up to do.

 

I've always wanted an adjustable miter-box for model building.  Many years ago I can across this angle clamp at a yard sale.  I'm not exactly sure what it was for, but with a little cutting and shaping, drilling and tapping, I've turned it into a great adjustable miter box. 

 

 

Edited February 17, 2017 by tedd60

[tedd60]

Corgi's front cross member and lower control arms need a bit of work.  The companies that sell model cars sometimes cast lower control arms as a solid piece and ignore the empty spaces that should be there.  They also do the same to rear spring shackles. 

Edit ... I've built and re-built this assembly a number of times, I think I got it where it needs to be for this model.

I scratch built Armstrong Lever action shocks with upper control arms, a steering rack and it's mounts.  I drilled through the steering knuckle, fitted it with a brass tube and drilled the assembly to accept a steel king pin.  The lower and stiffer front springs on the 1:1 car were yellow, but I didn't have any flat ... so I painted them flat white.

I need to fabricate brake rotors, calipers and hoses, but have to wait until I see what I come up with for wheels and tires.  The sway bar will be fitted after a little touch up and I install the assembly on the chassis.

 

 

 

Edited March 30, 2017 by tedd60

[Ron Hamilton]

That looks pretty good to me. In my opinion, your build is welcome here. You're doing a lot of re-engineering and correcting of a mediocre scale model, and I tip my cap to you!!!!

[Belugawrx]

Hey Ted  Welcome 

MGB is looking good

That clamp mech., to me, looks like a picture frame makers clamp and mitre

Carry on,...Cheers

[tedd60]

Thanks for the kind words.  I'm not sure if taking pictures is a good idea.  Every time I look as the pictures, I find something else that isn't quite correct.

I'm having a real tough time coming up with tires for this thing.  I need something 32mm (1.26 in.) outer diameter, 22mm (.886 in.) inner diameter and about 13mm (.50) wide.  I used Goodyear Blue Streak slicks for dry tires and a shaved set of Goodrich T/A radials for the wet.

If I can't find anything, I'm thinking of slicing up the the Goodyear Eagles seen in the first couple pictures of this thread., but in truth, they are way too tall and wide.

Every time I go looking, I come across all the 1/24 and 1/25 goodies you guys have.  Sometime I think I chose the wrong scale.

Edited February 18, 2017 by tedd60

[iBorg]

My first car was a B......a lot of me would love to have another. Darn simple car and seemingly indestructible unless you're young and foolish. I'll have to look out for a copy or two of this car.

[tedd60]

My first car was a B......a lot of me would love to have another. Darn simple car and seemingly indestructible unless you're young and foolish.

They were fairly simple, as long as you could tune the carbs and work on the electrics.

Safe Too!  The Siamese-ed intake and exhaust ports on the head made sure that you wouldn't get much more than 150 hp out of the engine and the lack of a chassis made certain that you couldn't drive it all that fast anyoldways.   I've owned MGB's since 1976 and I'm sure I'll always have one in the driveway (or apart and in the garage) forever.

Most people don't know an MGB took a class win at Lemans, beating the new Porsche 911 in 1964.  Might be worth modeling.  I'd have to scratch up a factory hardtop ...

 

Edited February 18, 2017 by tedd60

[vintagercr]

Ted, that is going to look great.  I vintage raced a '62 TR4 in the 80's.

[tedd60]

Hey Steve ... I was wondering what that screen name was about.

The TR4 was a great car, in many ways it was an MGB built properly.  Good engine and a real chassis, and it lead to another GREAT road racer, the TR6.  Bob Tullius and the Group 44 team sure made them go pretty quick.  If I remember correctly, Paul Newman got his start in a TR6.

[Foxer]

I'm enjoying your craft and get an MG to boot! 

[Brizio]

Nice project! A friend of mine used to race one too!

[tedd60]

You must know by now that I love road racing in small, production based cars.  I just found that there is a series in Australia called Improved Production.  Apparently there are two main classes, under 2 Litre and over 2 Litre. 

This is very similar to the IMSA RS Series (abbreviation for Radial Sedan) began in 1971 as the Goodrich Radial Challenge, aka the IMSA Baby Grands which was FANTASTIC racing back in the day.
 

Quote from Grass Roots Motorsports: "The idea was to attract racers who did not have the budgets that was required in the GT category as well as an emphasis on compact sedans such as the AMC Gremlin and the Opel Manta."  Down in Australia,  I see they are still racing ancient Datsun (they weren't Nissan yet!) 1200 s, Honda Civics and 70's vintage Toyota Celica ST's!!!  
 

In any event, attached are a couple of vids I found last night, both from the 2017 Bathurst 12 Hour, an endurance race for GT and production cars held at the Mount Panorama Circuit, in Bathurst, Australia.
 

GREAT racing.
 

The first vid shows Race 2 of the 2017 event.  Watch for some GREAT passing by a young fellow in a red Civic.  He runs the same play against anyone who will pass him ... in the same place over and over again:

 

 

And then I found a vid that allows viewing he same passes from INSIDE that red Civic!!!:

 

 

There seems to be a lot of this stuff on Youtube.  Just search Youtubve for Improved Production.
 

DEFINATELY worth a look if you love racing.  Good Stuff!

 

T

[tedd60]

If there are any SIM racers aboard, the Mount Panorama Circuit is simply called Bathurst on the 'net and there is a copy of the circuit for Assetto Corsa.  It's an interesting track with a little of everything.  I'm going to down load it and give it a go, probably in a Mazda MX5 Cup Car this afternoon:

http://www.racedepartment.com/downloads/bathurst.8677/

[tedd60]

FAR OUT!!!  THEPLASTICSHERETHEPLASTICSHERETHEPLASTICSHERETHEPLASTICSHERETHEPLASTICSHERE!!!!!

Model Parts and supply  http://stores.ebay.com/Model-Parts-and-Supply

modelparts_supply@sbcglobal.net

Good prices VERY fast turn around.

 

Edited February 19, 2017 by tedd60

[Belugawrx]

The mother lode !!!

[tedd60]

I'm probably gonna have to buy more.  I'm building a vacuum form.

 

I'm blaming Impalow and his Art Deco A model Ford.  It's ALL his fault.

Edited February 21, 2017 by tedd60