Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

Recommended Posts

I have used these pens on my real 1963½ Ford Galaxie 500 XL for the plastic interrior trim where the plating had wore off over the years, I even tested to repair just a part of the trim where the original plating was cracked and you almost can't tell where it's done when you look at it now.
I have also tested it on some model stuff and I'm happy with the results so far, it will not replace Bare Metal as you can do that over and over easily without damaging the paint, but it's for sure a complement...and it's easier to use than Alclad II.
The smoother shinier surface you start with the better chrome effect you will get, let the paint flow from the pen to the surface and I found out if you blow on it slightly just after you put it on it clears up instantly and gets very shiny.
This will not work well on primer or any other surface that's flat and absorbs the paint, the finnish will be just plain silver, the surface has to be smooth and shiny from the beginning to get a good result.

Here is a couple of pictures of the plated plastic interior trim on the door panels on my Galaxie.

Before the Molotow treatment:

IMG_1927b.jpg

After a couple of minutes use of the pen:

IMG_1929b.jpg

Edited by Force

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All good information guys, thank you all. I could see that for me, the most likely place I will use a pen would be the little wing windows. It is a pain to BMF that area, seldom comes out smooth and a pen would not only save time, it would look better when finished. I found BMF to be a less than favorite task and anything to help make the task easier by eliminating the hard little areas, is worth a try. I'll buy a 1mm and maybe a 2mm and see what happens.

Edited by Bill J

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll buy a 1mm and maybe a 2mm and see what happens.

What will happen is you'll buy the 4mm and a refill pack soon afterwards.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What am I going to do with the Alclad and Spaz Stik I have?

I'll be using my Spaz-Stix next week as I really like it a lot and I'm not going to just pitch it. Besides I have had my Molotow pens for about a month now and have yet to try them out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'd say that looks pretty good. With a little more prep work it would probably look even better.

Dose anyone have an Amazon link to purchase the real thing?

Did search, but can't tell if what I'm looking at is the real deal.

Wonder what it would look like with black base underneath.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This video is interesting, the  one after - Very painful to watch ( it really drags ) , but he does point out a few things - it is not durable ( as some have already mentioned ), it is thicker than Alclad, because more product must be used, in order to achieve the effect, where as Alclad is put on thin, therefore details still show &  he labels it for what it is; "a polished aluminum look". ....... not chrome, although; it may be the closest thing at the present time.

Edited by Krazy Rick
correction

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used just about every "chrome:" for models in over 50 years of building model cars, and everything depends on what you are 'chroming', and the desired finish. If I am going to re-chrome say a bumper, or a set of wheels, I would send them out to a commercial chrome service. Motolow pens are excellent for touching up edges, and I have used the 2mm pen with great success on small parts of old AMT bumpers from the '60's, as they are not as brilliant as say a Trumpeter chromed bumper. Your finish has to be clean, dry, and smooth, an you cannot handle it for several hours.

I bought the three tips available, but only used the 2mm tip so far, as I will still use Bare Metal Foil, Alcad, and Spaz Stix for different applications, as I have a lot of the product to use up. I like what I see so far with the Motolow pens, but for me, the jury is still out.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now "that's" going to get expensive!!

You would probably use up the entire contents of a pen for a set of wheels & maybe a bumper or 2.

At $12.00 to $18.00 bucks a pop, that's a little rich!

You can send a whole rack of parts out for re-chroming for less than $25.00.

 

By the way, I'm assuming that this guy has heard of latex gloves before? :D

 

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now "that's" going to get expensive!!

You would probably use up the entire contents of a pen for a set of wheels & maybe a bumper or 2.

At $12.00 to $18.00 bucks a pop, that's a little rich!

You can send a whole rack of parts out for re-chroming for less than $25.00.

 

By the way, I'm assuming that this guy has heard of latex gloves before? :D

 

Steve

You're right about the cost alright Steve.

BTW.................I was thinking the very same thing about the gloves. But then again, I did all that when I was younger. Now that I've got some years on me, I think of that kind of stuff.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BTW.................I was thinking the very same thing about the gloves. But then again, I did all that when I was younger. Now that I've got some years on me, I think of that kind of stuff.

I'm guilty myself, but it didn't take me long to figure out that it's a lot easier to throw away a rubber glove than it is to clean all of that paint off of my hands! ;)

I buy boxes of 100 latex gloves at my local grocery store for a few dollars.

 

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got a 2mm yesterday and have been doing my own testing. The look is truly amazing for touch up. I applied it to a few scrap sprues and let It dry good. Handling it to much turned mine dull or silver looking. Then I sprayed testors clear lacquer over it and it turned silver. So If the alclad clear works I would suggest it.  As far as the pen I pulled the tip all the way out of the pen, it is roughly an inch long and has the same shape on both ends so you could flip it or possibly use a sharp exacto knife and shape one end for fine detail which I plan to do. Testors also makes replacement fine tips for thier paint markers that also might be a possibility. I don't have any so I don't know for sure if they would fit but it's just a thought. Just wanted to share what I have tried so far with the others here. Tomorrow I will shave one end of the tip down for some fine detail work and see how it turns out on some window trim.

Edited by grt222
Spelling

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have used these pens on my real 1963½ Ford Galaxie 500 XL for the plastic interrior trim where the plating had wore off over the years, I even tested to repair just a part of the trim where the original plating was cracked and you almost can't tell where it's done when you look at it now.
I have also tested it on some model stuff and I'm happy with the results so far, it will not replace Bare Metal as you can do that over and over easily without damaging the paint, but it's for sure a complement...and it's easier to use than Alclad II.
The smoother shinier surface you start with the better chrome effect you will get, let the paint flow from the pen to the surface and I found out if you blow on it slightly just after you put it on it clears up instantly and gets very shiny.
This will not work well on primer or any other surface that's flat and absorbs the paint, the finnish will be just plain silver, the surface has to be smooth and shiny from the beginning to get a good result.

Here is a couple of pictures of the plated plastic interior trim on the door panels on my Galaxie.

Before the Molotow treatment:

 

After a couple of minutes use of the pen:

 

Looks great, but how does it stand up to regular handling that the door panels see in everyday use?  For example, doe the silver color rub off and get smeared onto the brown vinyl?  How about when you clean those door panels or use some sort for protectant (ArmorAll or whatever you use)? Does it affect the shine or make the solver coating spread to the brown panels?

As far as the reflectivity of this stuff goes, it is just like any other shiny finish (including the real chrome).  It will only be as reflective as the surface it is applied to. Real chrome is usually applied over very smooth layer of copper plating. Alclad chrome needs a glossy undercoat. To maximize the reflectivity of the Molotov stuff, it should be applied over smooth glossy surface.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It'll rub off like Aclad. That said, using Alclad's own Aqua Gloss as a sealer/protector works very well, being the only gloss I've ever tried that really doesn't kill the reflective quality. It does get slightly softened. The first time you try one of the pens is eye-opening; this can be applied over any color or surface. It's great for detailing small items. It's not IMHO a replacement for BMF for exterior trim.  It is perfect for touching up loose BMF ends or gaps, especially around vent windows, inner door handles, window winders, dash knobs, fixing the damage from clipping a part from the sprue, etc. Eventually I'll try it through the airbrush. 

Thank you bob!    I'm going to order up some of that clear...I've been curious to try it anyway.  For what its worth I've been able to get around the alclad rubbing off by applying it to very very recently sprayed dupli-color clear ...   it seems to bite in and holds up pretty decent for handling.

I have an idea for detailing the grille on my current build with the pens, but i don't want the effect to wipe of on the way to the first show.  I'm excited for them to arrive so I can give them a shot, and experiment.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks great, but how does it stand up to regular handling that the door panels see in everyday use?  For example, doe the silver color rub off and get smeared onto the brown vinyl?  How about when you clean those door panels or use some sort for protectant (ArmorAll or whatever you use)? Does it affect the shine or make the solver coating spread to the brown panels?

As far as the reflectivity of this stuff goes, it is just like any other shiny finish (including the real chrome).  It will only be as reflective as the surface it is applied to. Real chrome is usually applied over very smooth layer of copper plating. Alclad chrome needs a glossy undercoat. To maximize the reflectivity of the Molotov stuff, it should be applied over smooth glossy surface.

I don't know how it will hold up yet, I did it just a couple of weeks ago and it hasn't rubbed off yet...and yes I have touched it after it was done...it doesn't seem to smear at all when it's fully dried.
And as for "every day use"...well I don't drive this car every day, I only take it out in the summer when the weather is nice...right now in sits in a warm cosy garage. ;)
But if it rubs off I just do it over again...I have more of these markers.
 

Edited by Force

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know how it will hold up yet, I did it just a couple of weeks ago and it hasn't rubbed off yet...and yes I have touched it after it was done...it doesn't seem to smear at all when it's fully dried.
And as for "every day use"...well I don't drive this car every day, I only take it out in the summer when the weather is nice...right now in sits in a warm cosy garage. ;)
But if it rubs off I just do it over again...I have more of these markers.
 

AND ........ if it becomes a real hassle, I'd be willing to take the car off your hands, just to get that dilemma away from your mind     :) 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm gonna wait to see what people say about it in a year or so. I'd hate to find out that in time it fades like other inks, or tarnishes. I know theres guys here that like to tear apart, and rebuild models........I aint one of them. I'm gonna stick with the tested and proven: BMF, and Spaz Stix.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm gonna wait to see what people say about it in a year or so. I'd hate to find out that in time it fades like other inks, or tarnishes. I know theres guys here that like to tear apart, and rebuild models........I aint one of them. I'm gonna stick with the tested and proven: BMF, and Spaz Stix.

I'm with you Dann.

BMF is a known quantity.

I'll use the pens for interior details & chrome touch up, & that's about it.

 

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a 2mm pen on the way. I'm very curious to see what the hullaballoo is about. I know it could really come in handy for steering wheel and dashboard details, and for touching up chrome (I've been using a silver sharpie like a lazy person).  I'm curious to see if the finish will match vintage chrome or Alclad on small parts.

It's been nice to read through this thread and get a balanced idea of peoples' impressions.

I imagine it will probably fade over the years...but I could be wrong. If it saves me from having to foil wipers etc it will be very welcome.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will still use my trusty BMF, besides, i like doing it, but i will use the pen for those annoying q/vent windows, and those tiny 

exterior door key locks among other small details, i am very happy with the finish from them.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We're going to be carrying their liquid masking fluid pen, too.  Pretty neat, I've been playing around with one for a couple days. 

http://www.molotow.com/products/marker-ink/grafx/grafx-art-masking-liquid-pump-softliner/

Interesting. I love the chrome pens so far. I'll be interested in hearing more about their masking fluid as people start using it. This could potentially be another good tool if it works with hobby paints. Like Tamiya's spray lacquers. 

Scott

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

News from Model Roundup is, they now carry all three sizes of pens for $10.90 each.

Refills should be available in roughly a months time.

 

Steve

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...