taaron76 Posted April 6, 2017 Share Posted April 6, 2017 (edited) I am building this for a friend on mine to match his 1:1. Mostly stock, but the color is a custom mix from Gravity Colors, which is the stock color of LeMans Metallic Blue. The stripes will also be Gravity Colors Titanium White. I got the doors and trunk cut out and hinged and hope to get the base coat on this weekend. I plan on painting the stripes on for this one as well... more to come. Tim Friends Car: Edited June 24, 2017 by taaron76 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 7, 2017 Share Posted April 7, 2017 Hey now dog gone it TIm.. Im gonna have a hard time keeping up.... where's the mustang at now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 7, 2017 Author Share Posted April 7, 2017 Hi Jim! I know, I usually do one at a time... The '67 Shelby is almost done, just a few things to wrap up. Seats, seat belts, exhaust, drive shaft and cut the front window out and make the vent windows. I will be finishing up the seats today, hopefully.Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 11, 2017 Author Share Posted April 11, 2017 Not a lot of rake on this one... trying to match my friends cars stance. I had to pull the front wheels in a little closer to the frame to tuck them in more and gave the rear just a small block to jack it up a tad. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 I always use neodymium magnets in my builds when I hinge the doors or the trunk. It keeps them closed tight, and also aligns them up really nice when they are closed, provided you line the magnets up right when you glue them in place. I use the smallest magnet I can find, and them double them up. If there is a lot of space in between either side of the magnet, you can add more on each side to increase the magnetic strength. Since there is a pretty good gap between the door panel and inner cab on this build, I used 4 on each side. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Hard to tell for certain from the first photo, but it looks like your friend's car follows exactly the (incorrect) Revell kit body: It's got the Style Trim Group chome moldings around the wheel openings (and side windows), but is missing the chrome trim on the fake vents ahead of the rear wheels. So you got THAT goin' for ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 12, 2017 Author Share Posted April 12, 2017 Symantecs... the goal is to make it look as close as possible in 1:25. I think I see what you are talking about, but does this picture help? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted April 12, 2017 Share Posted April 12, 2017 Yup. Your friend's car is exactly the way the Revell body is molded. Drive on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) Howdy Tim Buddy, I like the way you modified the stance. It has just that nice subtle rake. I've built a few of revells 69 camaro's in my day and back in the mid 70s when my dad owned a body shop, quite a few 67 68 and 69 camaro's ended up in his shop for touch ups and repaints, and other owner booboos, so I've seen a lot of different configurations and trim packages on them. And though I've heard many times since the revell kit came out about the body not being accurate, I just dont see what is in-accurate about it. some of the 69 Z's that came into dad's shop had the chrome trim on the shark vents and some didn't, my uncle even ordered a 69 Z new from the dealer and he was able to pick and chose what he wanted on the car and what he didnt, when it came to the trim package. He ordered his without the trim on the fender wells, shark vents, and the lower door area and Willis Chevrolet of Smyrna, Delaware was happy to oblige him. Back in those days the factories and/or dealers would allow a customer to custom order cars with a lot less restrictions than they have these days. Heck a lot of times they would even oblige a customer on a special order non stock color choice. And if the factory wouldnt make the color change the dealer would. My dad ordered a brand new 63 chevy impala in 63 and asked for and got it in what I used to tell him was a crappy green that he later told me was the closest thing to apple green he could get. Now it could be that the dealer did it for him that way, (after all I was just a boy back then) but I know it was delivered to our house that way when he finally got it. Edited April 13, 2017 by microwheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Hi Jim, My buddy bought this back in '83 and needless to say, it looked a lot different back then. Still one of my favorite muscle cars to this day... with the exception of my '66 Mustang of course. I almost bought a '68 Camaro, prior to purchasing my Mustang, but it was an automatic and I wanted a 4 or 5 speed. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy D Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Hi Tim, Thanks for sharing your magnet set up!! Good stuff there. Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Curt Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Tim, the little video was a nice touch! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Hard to tell for certain from the first photo, but it looks like your friend's car follows exactly the (incorrect) Revell kit body: It's got the Style Trim Group chome moldings around the wheel openings (and side windows), but is missing the chrome trim on the fake vents ahead of the rear wheels. So you got THAT goin' for ya! And to further muddy the waters, here's a real-deal, well-documented, survivor, authentic, original paint Yenko with the fake vents but without the other moldings. One of these days I'm going to model this car but removing those moldings is gonna be tough. SS350s and SS396s got the fake vents whether or not they had the rest of the Z21 trim group and this car was built from an body intended to be an SS396 (it has the rear panel blackout but the lower rocker blackout was painted over). I think the way Revell did it is the most attractive combination and seems to be very common on Z/28s, whether it's correct or not. I wonder if a lot of the non-Z21 cars got the wheel and drip rail moldings at the dealership? Revell's stance does need some tweaking, especially in the back. I think it's too low all the way around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snake45 Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 And to further muddy the waters, here's a real-deal, well-documented, survivor, authentic, original paint Yenko with the fake vents but without the other moldings. One of these days I'm going to model this car but removing those moldings is gonna be tough. SS350s and SS396s got the fake vents whether or not they had the rest of the Z21 trim group and this car was built from an body intended to be an SS396 (it has the rear panel blackout but the lower rocker blackout was painted over). I think the way Revell did it is the most attractive combination and seems to be very common on Z/28s, whether it's correct or not. I wonder if a lot of the non-Z21 cars got the wheel and drip rail moldings at the dealership? Revell's stance does need some tweaking, especially in the back. I think it's too low all the way around. Very interesting. I've never heard that SSs got the fake chrome vents, but supposedly all Rally Sports should have had them because the RS option included Style Trim Group. I once owned a '69 SS/RS and of course it had all the chrome trim, which I didn't particularly care for (and eventually had removed). My car was that light metallic blue with a white painted top--no question about its originality--but I read in some reference somewhere that painted tops weren't available on SS (I don't remember where I read it) but obviously at least one was. If you're talking about removing the wheel moldings on the Revell body, I've done two of them now (i.e., eight moldings removed) and it's a tedious task, no fun at all. The proximity to the body line is the problem. I found the best way was to carefully scrape them away with the point of an Xacto (a curved blade might have worked even better), rather than try to sand or file them off. (I apologize to the OP, as none of this has much if anything to do with his build.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 (I apologize to the OP, as none of this has much if anything to do with his build.) Richard, no issues... I like reading about all the intricacies with these older cars. It's amazing what they would do at the dealership then, versus what is allowed today. Good stuff!Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Something for you guys to ponder about the stripes on this one. I really don't want to use the decals provided with the kit. For some reason, they look like they have some yellowing on the outside edges to them since this kit is a few years old. My intention was to paint the base color, tape of the stripes and paint them white, but I won't be able to paint that small outside stripe and then I would spray the clear coat. Scale wise, finding masking tape that small is near impossible, not to mention that making it that straight will be a challenge. Here is a pic of the stripes to see if the yellowing is just in my head or not. Thoughts? Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 (edited) Very interesting. I've never heard that SSs got the fake chrome vents, but supposedly all Rally Sports should have had them because the RS option included Style Trim Group. I once owned a '69 SS/RS and of course it had all the chrome trim, which I didn't particularly care for (and eventually had removed). My car was that light metallic blue with a white painted top--no question about its originality--but I read in some reference somewhere that painted tops weren't available on SS (I don't remember where I read it) but obviously at least one was.If you're talking about removing the wheel moldings on the Revell body, I've done two of them now (i.e., eight moldings removed) and it's a tedious task, no fun at all. The proximity to the body line is the problem. I found the best way was to carefully scrape them away with the point of an Xacto (a curved blade might have worked even better), rather than try to sand or file them off. (I apologize to the OP, as none of this has much if anything to do with his build.) Yeah, apologies to OP for the thread jack. This stuff interests me.Norwood, CA-built Camaros built after 2nd week of Dec 68 have an extra X-code from Fisher that helped the builders keep track of all the blackouts and what holes were drilled for trim. That yellow Yenko was an early one built from an X66 body which is a non-Z21 or Z22 SS396. Z21 is the Style Trim Group, Z22 is the Rally Sport option and like you said includes all of Z21. Z21 also has bright headlight rings on the regular grille plus the pin stripes over the wheel arches but if memory serves me right more cars were ordered with these stripes deleted than with them. The fake vents are shown here as "rear qtr moldings". Body Trim and Paint Features of the 1969 X & Z Codes with Z21 or Z22 without Z21 or Z22 ----------------------------- ------------------------ non-SS396/Z SS396 Z28 non-SS/Z SS350 SS396 Z28 Features X11 X22 X33 Z10 Z11 X44 X55 X66 X77 ------------------- --------- ----- --- --- --- ------- ----- ----- --- black body sill yes yes yes no no no yes yes no rear qtr moldings yes yes yes yes yes no yes yes no driprail molding yes yes yes yes no no no no no wheel open moldings yes yes yes yes yes no no no no blacked-out tailpan no yes no no no no no yes no Z28 rally stripe no no yes yes yes no no no yes Source: http://www.camaros.org/numbers.shtml Edited April 13, 2017 by Brett Barrow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brett Barrow Posted April 13, 2017 Share Posted April 13, 2017 Something for you guys to ponder about the stripes on this one. I really don't want to use the decals provided with the kit. For some reason, they look like they have some yellowing on the outside edges to them since this kit is a few years old. My intention was to paint the base color, tape of the stripes and paint them white, but I won't be able to paint that small outside stripe and then I would spray the clear coat. Scale wise, finding masking tape that small is near impossible, not to mention that making it that straight will be a challenge.Here is a pic of the stripes to see if the yellowing is just in my head or not.Thoughts?Tim Sometimes it's just the glue that's yellowed and they come out fine. Those look pretty good to me. You can always tape them to a sunny window for a week or two and let the sun bleach them out a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 13, 2017 Author Share Posted April 13, 2017 Sometimes it's just the glue that's yellowed and they come out fine. Those look pretty good to me. You can always tape them to a sunny window for a week or two and let the sun bleach them out a bit. I taped it in the sunny side window this morning and will let them sit for a few days. Thanks!Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crowe-t Posted April 15, 2017 Share Posted April 15, 2017 Tim, Great job on the stance and the open doors/trunk lid. The use of magnets seems to work well and the doors shut nice a snug. Thanks for the video demo.BTW did you get the paint from Gravity Colors in the US? I have quite a few paints from Gravity Colors and they all come in plastic jars. I never saw their paint in a can. I'm just curious.Mike. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 Tim, Great job on the stance and the open doors/trunk lid. The use of magnets seems to work well and the doors shut nice a snug. Thanks for the video demo.BTW did you get the paint from Gravity Colors in the US? I have quite a few paints from Gravity Colors and they all come in plastic jars. I never saw their paint in a can. I'm just curious.Mike.Mike, my apologies. I swore I hit reply a few days ago...I get most of my paints from Gravity Colors. Mate' did me a hug favor a mixed up a customer LeMans Chevy Blue for this build, so that is the quart size they use when mixing new colors. The official color should be released this month on their site. Thanks,Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taaron76 Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 The stock Chevy rally wheels are still my favorite muscle car era wheel. Just reminds me so much of that day and time, even though I was born in '76. I'm glad the decals I bought came with lots of spares... this was stressful and I had to have a practice go on each wheel. First time I've used wheel decals in a long time. Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 Your attention to detail just blows my freekin' mind Tim. Wow man! Those wheels and tires look great!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
microwheel Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 Nice work on the tires Tim. I think you'll be fine on the decals as far as the yellowing but the main thing with using old decals, if they have any serious age to them, especially Revell's decals, is they tend to either crack when applying, or they sometimes will curl on the edges from most of the glue being too aged and not activating when wet, and the curling sometimes doesn't show itself until you apply the clear coat. I had that happen to me on a old Revell boss 302 kit I bought at a swap meet once. it ruined a otherwise perfect paint job. If your not sure, and dont want to trust them, there are plenty of people making aftermarket 69 Z28 decals out there. just google search for them. Ive done the window bleaching thing a few times and it's kinda hit and miss, sometimes it works and sometimes not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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