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Testor ModelMaster paint bottle lids

19 posts in this topic

Posted

I have become so frustrated with Testor paint lids.  If Testor would just copy Tamiya lid design (large, easy to grip plastic top, soft plastic inner liner), I would be so appreciative.

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Posted

I've been using Testor's bottled paints for many years for detailing, painting engines, parts, etc. and never had a problem with their lids.

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Posted

I feel your pain.   I keep a set of ViseGrips on the bench to open stubborn MM paint jars.   Just be careful not to apply too much pressure or you'll rip the lid right off the bottle!

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Posted

The problem isn't mutually-exclusive to their Model Master line , though those are the the biggest offenders . In the last 32 years since I've been using them --- albeit , to a much lesser degree than Tamiya --- those lids have been a major source of irritation . No matter how careful I've been to wipe excess paint from the bottle's lip , the stupid lids would 'weld' themselves to the bottle !

Typically , I'll invert the bottle (lid-side-down) , dip a brush into a bottle of paint thinner , touch the wet brush to the lid / bottle junction , and let the thinner 'bleed' around the perimeter . Give it a few minutes to soften the paint , and voila ! 

As far as Tamiya and Gunze bottles are concerned : If the lids don't cooperate , I'll run them under running hot water from the faucet . Periodically , I'll gently 'tap' the lid's flat top surface with pliars' flat-side *if* the lid doesn't want to loosen on its own .

I have two bottles of paint that are over 30 years old , and they're just as good as the day I opened them : (1) bottle of Tamiya Clear Red , (1) bottle of Gunze Clear Orange . 

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Posted (edited)

I have far more problems with the Tamiya/Gunze type sticking, to the point where I picked up one of these bad boys (made by Gunze but fits Tamiya):

Image result for mr hobby bottle opener

For Testors/MM/Floquil, I just invert the bottle and drop a couple drops of lacquer thinner with a pipette wait a few seconds and they come right off.   Doesn't work as well on Tamiya/Gunze because of the big skirt on the cap. 

Edited by Brett Barrow

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Posted

A bit of lighter flame works well also

 

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Posted

I had much better luck with Testors after switching to stirring the paint rather than shaking the bottles, and making sure the threads and lip are clean before putting the lid back on. A shaken bottle ends up with paint on the lip of the bottle, and if it isn't wiped off; the lids tend to get welded on.

For stubborn lids, sometimes use the thinner trick as described above, and/or a set of adjustable-jaw pliers (NOT vise grips...those will shatter a bottle).

I agree that a larger-diameter lid would be easier to open by hand; more leverage.

Also, with the modeling demographic aging, it wouldn't be a bad idea for paint lids to be easier to grip. Large-diameter soft-grip handles are already becoming a trend in kitchen utensils and tools!

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Posted

You could do as I do with bottle caps on my resin bottles.  Get some good silicone grease and apply a coat to the threads.  Since it is silicone, it is inert to the paint.  I use Dow Corning III.  You can find silicone grease in a Ace Hardware store in the plumbing stuff.

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Posted

I took a piece of wood (1 x 4 ) cut it about 6 1/2 inches long, drilled a hole in it about 1 1/2 inches from the end, Squared the hole out so as a small square Testors bottle fit in it. Glued a piece of 1/4 inch plywood on the bottom.  Now when I get A bottle lid that fights me I just drop it in the hole and put the pliers to it. gives me all the leverage I need to get er open.

Also works as a place to leave the bottle while I paint, haven't spilled a bottle since I made it.  Also makes a good holder for when you clean off the threads on the bottle.

                                                                                          Jeff

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Posted

Thanks everybody for some great ideas!

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Posted

Jeff, that's a great idea!

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Posted

I have far more problems with the Tamiya/Gunze type sticking, to the point where I picked up one of these bad boys (made by Gunze but fits Tamiya):

Image result for mr hobby bottle opener

For Testors/MM/Floquil, I just invert the bottle and drop a couple drops of lacquer thinner with a pipette wait a few seconds and they come right off.   Doesn't work as well on Tamiya/Gunze because of the big skirt on the cap. 

Yep, best less than $10 spent, I love mine.

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Posted

I religiously clean the bottle lip and the gasket in the lid before closing the paint bottles  - never have any problems opening them. :)

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Posted

I never shake the bottle of paint, and I too clean the bottle lip and usually don't have any problems opening them. However once in a "blue moon" I get a tight lid and usually I can open it by putting a rubber band around the lid and that gives me a good grip. No need for pliers.

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Posted

I feel your pain.   I keep a set of ViseGrips on the bench to open stubborn MM paint jars.   Just be careful not to apply too much pressure or you'll rip the lid right off the bottle!

Bin there done that

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Posted

I took a piece of wood (1 x 4 ) cut it about 6 1/2 inches long, drilled a hole in it about 1 1/2 inches from the end, Squared the hole out so as a small square Testors bottle fit in it. Glued a piece of 1/4 inch plywood on the bottom.  Now when I get A bottle lid that fights me I just drop it in the hole and put the pliers to it. gives me all the leverage I need to get er open.

Also works as a place to leave the bottle while I paint, haven't spilled a bottle since I made it.  Also makes a good holder for when you clean off the threads on the bottle.

                                                                                          Jeff

Great idea Jeff

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Posted

I've been fighting those lids for decades--probably 30% or more of every bottle I use--but hot water and bigass channel-lock pliers works almost 100% of the time. I've only broken one bottle (which fortunately was almost empty anyway), but I have mangled a couple lids so badly (after repeated plier-ings) that I had to swap them out with the lid from an empty bottle.

The lids used to be steel, but I think they're aluminum or some softer metal now.

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Posted

I've used one of these for years.  Had an extra one in the kitchen.  Will use a scrap of microfiber towel if need extra grip or a drop of lacquer thinner in rare instances

cde1683c3439eb5cd735ac43d9fb62d1.jpg

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Posted

Doggone it, I betcha Pactra lids practically unscrewed themselves. Say, whatever happened to Pactra anyway?

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