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Testor ModelMaster paint bottle lids


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The problem isn't mutually-exclusive to their Model Master line , though those are the the biggest offenders . In the last 32 years since I've been using them --- albeit , to a much lesser degree than Tamiya --- those lids have been a major source of irritation . No matter how careful I've been to wipe excess paint from the bottle's lip , the stupid lids would 'weld' themselves to the bottle !

Typically , I'll invert the bottle (lid-side-down) , dip a brush into a bottle of paint thinner , touch the wet brush to the lid / bottle junction , and let the thinner 'bleed' around the perimeter . Give it a few minutes to soften the paint , and voila ! 

As far as Tamiya and Gunze bottles are concerned : If the lids don't cooperate , I'll run them under running hot water from the faucet . Periodically , I'll gently 'tap' the lid's flat top surface with pliars' flat-side *if* the lid doesn't want to loosen on its own .

I have two bottles of paint that are over 30 years old , and they're just as good as the day I opened them : (1) bottle of Tamiya Clear Red , (1) bottle of Gunze Clear Orange . 

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I have far more problems with the Tamiya/Gunze type sticking, to the point where I picked up one of these bad boys (made by Gunze but fits Tamiya):

Image result for mr hobby bottle opener

For Testors/MM/Floquil, I just invert the bottle and drop a couple drops of lacquer thinner with a pipette wait a few seconds and they come right off.   Doesn't work as well on Tamiya/Gunze because of the big skirt on the cap. 

Edited by Brett Barrow
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I had much better luck with Testors after switching to stirring the paint rather than shaking the bottles, and making sure the threads and lip are clean before putting the lid back on. A shaken bottle ends up with paint on the lip of the bottle, and if it isn't wiped off; the lids tend to get welded on.

For stubborn lids, sometimes use the thinner trick as described above, and/or a set of adjustable-jaw pliers (NOT vise grips...those will shatter a bottle).

I agree that a larger-diameter lid would be easier to open by hand; more leverage.

Also, with the modeling demographic aging, it wouldn't be a bad idea for paint lids to be easier to grip. Large-diameter soft-grip handles are already becoming a trend in kitchen utensils and tools!

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You could do as I do with bottle caps on my resin bottles.  Get some good silicone grease and apply a coat to the threads.  Since it is silicone, it is inert to the paint.  I use Dow Corning III.  You can find silicone grease in a Ace Hardware store in the plumbing stuff.

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I took a piece of wood (1 x 4 ) cut it about 6 1/2 inches long, drilled a hole in it about 1 1/2 inches from the end, Squared the hole out so as a small square Testors bottle fit in it. Glued a piece of 1/4 inch plywood on the bottom.  Now when I get A bottle lid that fights me I just drop it in the hole and put the pliers to it. gives me all the leverage I need to get er open.

Also works as a place to leave the bottle while I paint, haven't spilled a bottle since I made it.  Also makes a good holder for when you clean off the threads on the bottle.

                                                                                          Jeff

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I have far more problems with the Tamiya/Gunze type sticking, to the point where I picked up one of these bad boys (made by Gunze but fits Tamiya):

Image result for mr hobby bottle opener

For Testors/MM/Floquil, I just invert the bottle and drop a couple drops of lacquer thinner with a pipette wait a few seconds and they come right off.   Doesn't work as well on Tamiya/Gunze because of the big skirt on the cap. 

Yep, best less than $10 spent, I love mine.

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I never shake the bottle of paint, and I too clean the bottle lip and usually don't have any problems opening them. However once in a "blue moon" I get a tight lid and usually I can open it by putting a rubber band around the lid and that gives me a good grip. No need for pliers.

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I took a piece of wood (1 x 4 ) cut it about 6 1/2 inches long, drilled a hole in it about 1 1/2 inches from the end, Squared the hole out so as a small square Testors bottle fit in it. Glued a piece of 1/4 inch plywood on the bottom.  Now when I get A bottle lid that fights me I just drop it in the hole and put the pliers to it. gives me all the leverage I need to get er open.

Also works as a place to leave the bottle while I paint, haven't spilled a bottle since I made it.  Also makes a good holder for when you clean off the threads on the bottle.

                                                                                          Jeff

Great idea Jeff

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I've been fighting those lids for decades--probably 30% or more of every bottle I use--but hot water and bigass channel-lock pliers works almost 100% of the time. I've only broken one bottle (which fortunately was almost empty anyway), but I have mangled a couple lids so badly (after repeated plier-ings) that I had to swap them out with the lid from an empty bottle.

The lids used to be steel, but I think they're aluminum or some softer metal now.

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Wow I'm surprised nobody has mentioned tapping the lid with a marker or I use the handle from my exacto hobby knife, what you want to do is carefully tap the cap all around (gently) and once to do it all around at least once, your lid will screw off like it was open! Trust me I tried the channel locks method and it made me laugh when I did this and it worked :wacko: try it and let me know!

Edited by MODELOESPECIAL
Typo
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Doggone it, I betcha Pactra lids practically unscrewed themselves. Say, whatever happened to Pactra anyway?

IIRC Pactra went to aluminum lids years before Testor did. They also used PLASTIC bottles instead of glass. Don't thin your plastic-bottle Pactra paint with lacquer thinner or it will chew its way out of there! :blink:

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IIRC Pactra went to aluminum lids years before Testor did. They also used PLASTIC bottles instead of glass. Don't thin your plastic-bottle Pactra paint with lacquer thinner or it will chew its way out of there! :blink:

Aluminum lids?  I have an old (plastic) Pactra bottle and it has a steel lid (magnetic). Same with all (old and new) Testors bottles, Floquil, and Scalecoat bottles I own - they all have steel lids.  I don't ever recall seeing any hobby paint bottles with aluminum lids.

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.........like many said here , run the bottle under some very hot water a couple of minutes, then try it,,, and better yet twist the cap while wearing some rubber gloves ....that works more times than not....however, on some occasions when I'm not winning the fight I go with this solution....first, turn the hot water tap off, then remove the rubber gloves....next, using your right foot, depress the black plastic pedal on the nearest trash can, and at close range, fire that bottle deep into the bottom of it,,,, then lastly  grab your car keys and head for the nearest hobby shop to buy a fresh bottle...lol...:lol:.........the Ace...:lol:

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