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Not the most exciting update here... but I'm sourcing all the bits out of my parts boxes to start on the frame design. 

The Front A-arms and spindles are from a viper kit, the rear end is from the bronco, the engine is the flathead from the 48 ford custom, and the auto trans is from the small block in  revell 1932 5window kit.

 

the manual trans just didn't seem right, so a little slice and dice the flathead has an auto.

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Edited by Impalow

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Interesting project and engine choice.

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I consider myself to have a pretty fertile imagination but I'd have never thought this one up!  What an amazing concept!  I really like how you used the hood and fender parts to extend the back end... That's one of those subtle-ish design elements that COULD look like a factory original, if  you know what I mean...  I look forward to watching your progress on this one!

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So i was able to patch up this project log a bit...  think we should have pictures again.

Ive made some small progress on the bronco, first off i decided to get the body mounts all sorted. This was pretty easy using the chassis pans from the 2 bronco kits I cannibalized.  I also chopped the windshield frame up and attached it.

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Once that was all done I was able to go over to my low-tech... low dollar 3d scanner....  well its just a 2d scanner.... but i scanned the bronco body in as a side and bottom view at full size

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Then it was easy to scan in all the other pieces to make a frame "jig" and get started designing the frame digitally in adobe illustrator.

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Current progress on the frame design:

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That is a simply an ingenious way to plan a chassis design!This is going to be another one of those builds filled with clever and unique solutions to design problems that will inspire countless modelers.This is one of my favorite works in progress.

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Thanks guys!  I managed to get the basic chassis programed and cut over the weekend.  Now the fun part of getting all of the pieces cut out the rest of the way.  Since I used .020 and my cutter only scores at that thickness, I have to go back and trace each path with a sharp xacto knife... these parts are all a bit to delicate to just snap out as normal.

Here is where i ended up on the cutting paths, planing on layering up the .020  frame rails to create a .100 x .100 "tube" frame.  I added some positive location points on the rails, so i can make sure I keep everything straight and square.... this will make more sense later... I promise.

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and here is the second sheet of frame reinforcement parts... this will also make more sense later. 

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and cut!

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Wow, I cant believe I missed this thread! As usual, Eric, you are thinking outside the square!

I have been using this same scan/draw/cut technique lately. These are detail parts for a 1/24 Tamiya Vespa:

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The parts were too small to cut and handle easily so I added "tabs" to bulk them up and to handle them with. I also added two holes in some tabs to take alignment pins to locate them when layering up. I guess this is the equivalent of your positive location points on your rails. The footrests turned out to be too fine to cut so I 3D printed them and they turned pretty well.

I can't wait for the rest of this thread and some more great techniques, especially when you get to the bike.

I see photoetched spoked wheels in my future.....

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Wow, I cant believe I missed this thread! As usual, Eric, you are thinking outside the square!

I have been using this same scan/draw/cut technique lately. These are detail parts for a 1/24 Tamiya Vespa:

The parts were too small to cut and handle easily so I added "tabs" to bulk them up and to handle them with. I also added two holes in some tabs to take alignment pins to locate them when layering up. I guess this is the equivalent of your positive location points on your rails. The footrests turned out to be too fine to cut so I 3D printed them and they turned pretty well.

I can't wait for the rest of this thread and some more great techniques, especially when you get to the bike.

I see photoetched spoked wheels in my future.....

That is awesome David!    So cool to see someone else doing this!  And the tab idea is a great one, im going to file that away.

Im pretty sure this technique will work for photo-etched stuff too, which i want to get into..  eventually.

Im still playing out the bike design in my head... but thinking something inspired by this boardtracker style custom..

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Made some progress last night... frame rails out.. and layed up

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Then I was able to attach the frame rails to the main chassis plate.... now i will stack up cut pieces of .020 on the sides, the center and then the front and back....   those little notches i added in the bottom of the frame rails are .020 high so the cross members will all lay flat and hopefully look like a fully welded assembly once filled.

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Eric, that bike is insane - a steampunk boardracer! Fantastic!

I can't wait for you to start this. I want to do a model of the World's Fastest Indian which is not dissimilar in some ways and I need to steal some techniques.

I also want to try some photoetching and have been reading up on simpler and safer ways with everyday materials. I have seen people using UV fingernail setting machines to expose plates and these machines are only $20! I will post up some links shortly.

Keep it up!

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I also want to try some photoetching and have been reading up on simpler and safer ways with everyday materials. I have seen people using UV fingernail setting machines to expose plates and these machines are only $20! I will post up some links shortly.

Keep it up!

Oh yeah!   Please post some info on that when you get a chance!    The chemicals involved and space in my workshop are the main reasons I haven't already invested in the micro-mark system.... Thanks David!

 

Totally lost track of time last night whittling and layering styrene... looked down and it was about 2 hours later than i realized..haha... oops... one of my favorite parts of this hobby is getting so involved in something you kinda let everything else go for a few hours...

Managed to get the center portion layered, and the first cross members installed.... still a lot of cleanup but its starting to look like a frame!    The orings/airbags seem sized correctly.. oh and it fits the body!  woohooo

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That's sure a beautiful frame!

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Beautiful frame! I love the combination of CAD, creative use of tech, and plain old hand-finishing.

The last time I tried to laminate a frame together, it warped badly as the glue dried. What's your secret?

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Hi Eric,

Here are the photoetch links (copy and paste to your browser, linking is not working for me?):

www.instructables.com/id/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/#intro

www.instructables.com/id/Printed-Circuit-Board-Production-using-UV-Nail-Cur/

www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234944044-how-to-make-photo-etched-parts-at-home/

www.ebay.com.au/itm/30cm-x-5M-PCB-Photosensitive-Dry-Film-For-Circuit-Production-Photoresist-Sheets-/322452881961?epid=680674256&hash=item4b13b08229:g:hMMAAOSwdGFYyP9x

www.ebay.com.au/itm/Select-Size-0-01mm-1-0mm-Copper-Sheet-Plate-Guillotine-Cut-Metal-Copper-Sheet-/272563847500?var=&hash=item3f7612414c:m:mrNaBoAAKDRbA1GURZDyABA

A bit more research and trial is required. Stay tuned...
DISCLAIMER: This is not my info, read at your own risk. Caution: contents of kettle may be hot.

Edited by Davoski
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a simple observation here...thanks for taking your frame progress photos on a dark colored background.That makes the glorious details a lot easier to see and drool over.(I have to wear a bib when looking at this build).

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Wow impressive work, really nice will keep following your build

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 Thank you all!!!

A bit more research and trial is required. Stay tuned...

DISCLAIMER: This is not my info, read at your own risk. Caution: contents of kettle may be hot.

Thanks David!   That's super interesting info for sure!   I appreciate you doing some research and sharing.

Beautiful frame! I love the combination of CAD, creative use of tech, and plain old hand-finishing.

The last time I tried to laminate a frame together, it warped badly as the glue dried. What's your secret?

Thank you Chris!   No huge secret really....  I just scuff everything and then use the Tamyia Ultra Thin Glue... then clamp the snot out of it and let it sit overnight.  That's pretty much it, I have had some warping, but i can usually get it back to shape by using bar stock for cross-members and supports. 

 

Hopefully ill have an update soon... im working out the rear suspension geometry

 

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