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40 Ford Convertible, photo links restored

MGL

By MGL
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MGL MCM Ohana

MGL

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This was my Dads first car, bought for $75.00 in the early '50's when he was about 14. He said he never had legal tags on it but he drove it until he went into the Navy at 17. Painted with craft acrylics mixed as close as I could get to Lyon blue and cleared with testers wet look clear. I made original style spark plug wire looms although the old uninsulated end for the plug still escapes me. I've seen others on here make them I just haven't figured it out yet. I ran a harness on the fire wall so I could wire the voltage regulator, and ran fuel lines. I also added a '52 Maryland license plate and weathered a copy of a page from a dealer brochure for the display case. 

40 8

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40 1

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This kit was a pleasure to build, if you have not tried it I highly encourage you to check it out. The fit and finish was as good as anything out there. While I can't speak to the accuracy of the kit to my eye it looks pretty good. Thanks for looking.

 

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MGL MCM Ohana

MGL

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great build-how did you mix and spray the craft paint

Bill, I thinned it with distilled water to about the consistency of milk, about 70 to 90 percent water. I've read about others using windshield washer fluid but the water works just fine for me, nothing else added. I have the cheap dual action airbrush that comes with the Harbor Freight compressor, I don't know what size the needle is but I think its fairly large. The nice thing about the dual action for this is it allows me to feed very little paint for the initial coats until I get some coverage and then I can feed more as needed. It won't flash off like lacquer or enamel, its either wet or its dry. I give as many coats as needed to get the consistency and color I want. Between coats I have held the part out at arms length and sprayed very low pressure air to speed up the drying time. I shoot the clear as soon as it is dry, usually no more than a few minutes. Don't try to wet sand the color coat, it will come right off. I have wiped the part done with a tack cloth with no problem. If you have an issue you can wash the paint off with warm soapy water and a stiff toothbrush. I have used Testers, Tamiya, and Duplicolor lacquer clears with no issues. Be warned when you wet sand or polish the clear if you burn through you will immediately go through the color coat. I probably don't need to mention it but a good smooth coat of primer is essential before painting. You know how with some paints if you wet sand through the primer and some bare styrene shows through it will be fine? Not with this, that spot will be lighter than the rest. This also works great for the hairspray method of weathering although I haven't tried the salt method with it yet.

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