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M1008 CUCV 1/35 kit by Miniman Factory


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M1008 CUCV Miniman Factory 1/35

Miniman Factory M1008 CUCV kit in 1/35

This will be my first all resin (and PE) kit build.

 

M1008 CUCV 1/35 kit contents

kit contents

 

The following are side by sides with the MENG "Toyota"

M1008 CUCV  with MENG Toyota 1/35 sprueone

M1008 CUCV with MENG Toyota 1/35 sprueone

M1008 CUCV with MENG Toyota 1/35 sprueone

 

 

Tomorrow I'll post pics of the Miniman Factory Chevy cab next to 1/24 and 1/25 scale truck kits.

 

Thanks for looking ...

Edited by Edward Gore
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In the USA, Sprue Brothers carries Miniman Factory kits.  The two CUCVs have been "out of stock" for some time now, but Sprue Bros. still has pages up for them. I have the M1009 kit and a couple of others from Miniman Factory, like the Russian UAZ-452 truck and van.  They're all nice kits, very cleanly cast. 

 

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<---- Total resin kit amateur!

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The grille part is one piece with pour block out back. This didn't fit into the front of the cab grille opening so I thought I'd sand down the pour block part of it so it would fit. Bad idea because the front detail and frame garnish is so fragile it aint even funny.

The frame garnish broke off in the lower left corner but luckily I found it. In hind sight, the best thing to do is to remove material from the cab part to open the cavity to accept the grille part. 

M1008 CUCV grille cavity sprueone

^ Remove material from the cavity instead.

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m1008 cucv grille & front clip sprueone

^ I broke off this little corner part during sanding of the grille part

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m1008 cucv grille sprueone

 

 

 

Edited by Edward Gore
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m1008 cucv grille & front clip sprueone

Grille part glued in with the broken corner piece in place. The angles of the grille part and the front clip of the cab part were different angles so it created a gap at each end. I filled this gap around the grille part with Zap-a Gap, medium CA. After a light coat of primer to check things out, it all looks fine.

m1008 cucv grille sprueone

I also scraped material off the back (pour block) of the grille part so the floor part will install correctly later. Approx. 1mm was removed.

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m1008 cucv grille & front clip sprueone

Something else I notice is that the angles of the front clip are different than the grille part leaving gaps on each end.

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m1008 cucv grille & front clip sprueone

m1008 cucv grille & front clip sprueone

m1008 cucv grille & front clip sprueone

I filled the gap around the grille part with Zap-A-Gap medium CA and I think it looks fine in 1/35.

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Thanks for looking...

 

Edited by Edward Gore
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  • 3 weeks later...

m1008 cucv brush guard sprueone

m1008 cucv brush guard sprueone

Removal of material with a sharp knife one section at a time.

 

m1008 cucv brush guard sprueone

Even with a sharp knife there is a rough stand out material left behind. After all quadrants were cut out, the flat side (front) was carefully sanded with a sanding stick, for nails, of approx. 1000 grit.

 

m1008 cucv brush guard sprueone

Those blocks are outer attachment points to the front bumper.

 

m1008 cucv brush guard sprueone

The brush guard dry set on top of the front bumper part. The final position will be a little more forward on the bumper.

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The brush guard is glued to the front bumper but just dry fit onto the front clip. I'll glue it on after all painting is done.

Noted above is that I shaved off the lower end mounts that were suppose to be left on to help position it correctly onto the front bumper. To correct this, I scratch built a couple mounts that look a little more accurate to the real thing.

I used PE-13 from the PE set included with the kit. I wasn't going to use this part because it was for rear bench seats in the truck bed. Since I wasn't going to install these bench seats in my model, I wasn't going to install the 3 brackets along the top ridge of the bed sides.

m1008 cucv PE set sprueone

I cut two 3mm lengths from PE-13 and used the fold to make the bracket mounts. They worked out perfectly.

 

m1008 cucv brush guard sprueone

m1008 cucv brush guard installed sprueone

m1008 cucv brush guard installed sprueone

Then the 8 rivet heads were sliced from MENG's set and glued into position referenced on-line.

It looks like it's wearing glasses now B)

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The suspension parts, axles, and transmission parts are glued into position.

The 4 struts (part #8) seem to be for the M1009 in the assembly instructions since MmF makes both kits. The CUCV technical manual that Mustang1989 provided a link show the positions a little different specifically for the M1008.

Now it's ready for primer. The longer drive shaft and exhaust pipe will be painted separately then glued on later after assembly of the bed and cab.


M1008 CUCV suspension and drive parts

Edited by Edward Gore
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The rear bumper is assembled and ready for primer. A few things are not clearly illustrated in the assembly instructions but were pretty easy to adapt and figure out.

M1008 CUCV Miniman Factory PE set sprueone

M1008 CUCV guitar string sprueone

M1008 CUCV trailer power receptacle sprueone

(PE-15) is the trailer power supply receptacle cover. The assembly instructions does not describe this part. I saw it on ref pictures on the internet so I wanted to include it on my model.

It would look too flat if I just glued it into position on the bumper so I adapted the receptacle part. First, I found a piece of guitar string (from my brother's guitar). It was just about the right thickness for the spring loaded hinge. The receptacle was a stack of 3 (PE-6) parts that is for the M1009 kit. (The same PE set is included in both the M1008 and M1009 kits) Then I glued (PE-15) on top. It looks about right now.

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M1008 CUCV Miniman Factory rear bumper sprueone

Rear bumper assembly is complete with exception to the tow shackles. I glued four rivets from a Meng set. Two on each end.

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Thanks for looking...

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've done a little more on this during the week.

The posts for the side, rear view mirrors are not included in the kit so I made them from wire as suggested in the kit's I-sheets.

The base color is MM1714 (FS-34127) Forest Green, shot through my AB. After I made a new swatch that color just looked the best.

M1008 CUCV side view mirror posts sprueone

 

M1008 CUCV color swatch black flag sprueone

M1008 CUCV miniman factory color sprueone

 

 

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Next update is the lights, front lights lenses, and tail light casted blocks.

The reflective head light parabolas are painted with Molotow liquid chrome. The four lense parts are clear resin. The front are convex and the backs are concave, man these guys don't miss the details.

The tail light blocks are also clear resin. They fit flush on the outside but have huge gaps around the edges. They are also left and right, top and bottom. This was discovered by dry fitting first. I painted the backs of these with the Molotow pens then masked off the little, reverse light, rectangles and painted the outside with clear red acrylic.

M1008 CUCV Molotow liquid chrome sprueone

M1008 CUCV head light lense sprueone

M1008 CUCV taillights sprueone

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  • 2 weeks later...

M1008 CUCV warpidgeville sprueone

In a rush to assemble and finish this model I didn't notice the slight warpidge of the cab shell part and the alignment issue with the bed.

The front/right fender area is warped so slightly that I didn't see it until after it was assembled. The rear bed misalignment was due to how the rear/right leaf spring sits on top of the rear axle.

I carefully removed the rear axle from the leaf spring, ok. Then I was pulling out the floor part from the cab and it sort of exploded. Luckily every thing landed on the bench top and on my lap so no damage. I just pulled on the magic part and it all just disassembled itself very, very rapidly.

M1008 CUCV subassemblies on the bench

Edited by Edward Gore
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