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Polishing paint without clear?

21 posts in this topic

Posted

Hello All,

So this is a question that I am sure has been asked before but I am looking for some advice on this. To start I use the Don Yost method, I use the small Testors enamel bottles mixed 50/50 with lacquer thinner and spray anywhere from 30-40psi through a Paasche model H and Harbor Freight compressor until the body is covered. I do have some spots that seem to have some orange peel and even some dust. Other spots look good, for me at least haha. I plan on clear coating the car with Rustoleum automotive enamel clear. My question is, is it ok to sand out the imperfections starting with 4,000 or 6,000 grit working up until 12,000? Or should I clear the vehicle as is and polish it after? Has anyone ever had this happen and resolve it?

Thank you!

Cobra5.jpg

cobra3.jpg

cobra4.jpg

cobra2.jpg

Cobra1.jpg

cobra6.jpg

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Posted

While I haven't seen the Don Yosst video for a few years, I thought that the mix ratio was more like 66%/33% if I'm not mistaken. Also, I would let the paint dry thoroughly and then polish out the body using 4,000 thru 12,000 grits before washing it and spraying my clear. I also use a tack rag before I start spraying the body as well. I hope this helps.

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Posted

The paint should be as perfect as can be before you clear it. 

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Posted

To be very honest with you, your best move at this point would be to strip all your paint, sand off all those molding lines, and then paint again. Whether or not you try to fix your paint "blemishes" and then clear-coat, when you polish, you're going to eventually "rub through" on those molding lines, and then you'll have to fix THAT. And even if you don't, the molding lines are so apparent to the eye that no one is going to notice any dust or other paint-boogers.

You've got the right paint equipment, and are well along toward mastering the "right technique." (I use a variation of the Yost method myself, to spectacular effect.) But the best paint job in the world can't cover up bad bodywork. You seem to have the talent and the skill to do good work. With just a little effort, you could be doing GREAT work. B)

I know this post might seem at first to be a bit of a "downer," but I am trying to help and encourage you here. Really!

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Posted

I agree with Snake. Polishing will make the paint look like a million but the mold lines will be even more noticeable. Also like Snake said, yes, you'll probably sand/polish through the paint there too. I've stripped quite a few bodies in my time and will probably do so again. You really did a great job of laying the paint down for a first timer. Attention to detail with good body prep will make you a great builder.

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Posted

Now that I looked at your photos again, I see what the guys are saying about the mold lines and they are right. They gotta go.

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Posted

Now that I looked at your photos again, I see what the guys are saying about the mold lines and they are right. They gotta go.

Yeah, that's the first thing that I noticed.

The paint looks pretty good, but it really makes no sense to put a lot of effort into the paint with all of those mold lines.

Kind of defeats the purpose.

 

Steve

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Posted

Yeah, that's the first thing that I noticed.

Steve

Yup. See what I mean? It's the first thing a skilled/experienced modeler sees, and after that, he's not too interested in the rest of the model.

In any kind of contest or competition, those mold lines will take you out of consideration instantly.

Very soon, YOU will be one of those guys who sees and can't stand those mold lines, too. As I said, you've got the right equipment, you've got the skills, and apparently you've got the desire to do a good job and produce a GREAT model. Drive on! B)

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Posted (edited)

Thank you for all the advice. I am definitely still going to try and polish it off. Just want sure if it has been done before without ruining the paint. More than likely I am going to mess up and that will lead to me stripping and removing the mold lines and repainting haha but at least this will be good practice for if it happens again.

I greatly appreciate all the positivity on the post and the help. I will upload after photos of the process. Thank you once again!

Edited by 1hobby1

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Posted

Thank you for all the advice. I am definitely still going to try and polish it off. Just want sure if it has been done before without ruining the paint. More than likely I am going to mess up and that will lead to me stripping and removing the mold lines and repainting haha but at least this will be good practice for if it happens again.

I greatly appreciate all the positivity on the post and the help. I will upload after photos of the process. Thank you once again!

That's a good plan - the Testors enamels are really soft and the mildest polish will be best - maybe even as mild as something like Meguiers cleaner-wax.  It should shine up good without clear, but if you go that step, any polish or wax will need to be cleaned off with a good detergent (dish soap) for the clear to stick.

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Posted

While I haven't seen the Don Yosst video for a few years, I thought that the mix ratio was more like 66%/33% if I'm not mistaken. Also, I would let the paint dry thoroughly and then polish out the body using 4,000 thru 12,000 grits before washing it and spraying my clear. I also use a tack rag before I start spraying the body as well. I hope this helps.

I was just curious - 66% lacquer thinner? I seem to have trouble getting my paint thin enough. I have never tried lacquer thinner with enamel, but looking for a better way to airbrush. I've painted and stripped one model twice already due to the fact the Testors black enamel I've used remains tacky to the touch even after sitting several weeks! I am going to try Humbrol enamel to see if the results will be any better. Any suggestions appreciated.

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Posted

Yes, lacquer thinner is an excellent thinner for enamels. I have only one suggestion. Lacquer. I started with enamels but I don't use them for anything any longer. But, that's just me.

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Posted

Yes, lacquer thinner is an excellent thinner for enamels. I have only one suggestion. Lacquer. I started with enamels but I don't use them for anything any longer. But, that's just me.

I have considered going lacquer after using automotive acrylic lacquers straight from the rattle can with good results. I really like the fast dry time & durability. However there does not seem to be much available in the way for models aside from spray cans (especially color choice) or am I missing something here? :unsure:

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Posted

I was just curious - 66% lacquer thinner? I seem to have trouble getting my paint thin enough. I have never tried lacquer thinner with enamel, but looking for a better way to airbrush. I've painted and stripped one model twice already due to the fact the Testors black enamel I've used remains tacky to the touch even after sitting several weeks! I am going to try Humbrol enamel to see if the results will be any better. Any suggestions appreciated.

Did you thin the Testors with lacquer thinner or something else? I've never had this happen with LT, though I did have something similar happen with Pactra Odds N Ends thinned with naphtha. It took over a year to dry hard enough to polish! But I've polished out Testor enamel thinned with LT after as little as 24 hours, though waiting at least 48 is better.

BTW, I thin the Testor/Model Masters AT LEAST 50-50 with LT, and usually more, depending on how thick the Testor paint is. I've seen the MM enamels come anywhere from honey-like to almost airbrush-ready right out of the bottle, so it's hard to give exact ratios. It's just something you get a feel for eventually.

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Posted

I have considered going lacquer after using automotive acrylic lacquers straight from the rattle can with good results. I really like the fast dry time & durability. However there does not seem to be much available in the way for models aside from spray cans (especially color choice) or am I missing something here? :unsure:

Color choice can be challenging but most colors can be had from http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/

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Posted

Did you thin the Testors with lacquer thinner or something else? I've never had this happen with LT, though I did have something similar happen with Pactra Odds N Ends thinned with naphtha. It took over a year to dry hard enough to polish! But I've polished out Testor enamel thinned with LT after as little as 24 hours, though waiting at least 48 is better.

BTW, I thin the Testor/Model Masters AT LEAST 50-50 with LT, and usually more, depending on how thick the Testor paint is. I've seen the MM enamels come anywhere from honey-like to almost airbrush-ready right out of the bottle, so it's hard to give exact ratios. It's just something you get a feel for eventually.

I used Testors airbrush thinner. I only use that when I airbrush & its pretty old. Does this stuff get bad over time? I use good ole Walmart thinner when brush painting & that can take some time to dry as well, but nothing like the airbrushed paint job.

And I certainly agree with you on the Testors inconsistant consitancy! Thats all they carry at the local hobby shop & Hobby Lobby, beside Valero acrylics. I have finally found an online store selling Humbrol, which has been good paint in the past, tho I've heard they've changed their formula. I want to give Tamiya a try too. I have been impressed with their primer, smoke tint sprays & masking tape.

 

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Posted

Color choice can be challenging but most colors can be had from http://www.mcwautomotivefinishes.com/

Thanks Tom. I had forgotten them. I have been to their site. Haven't ordered anything yet

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Posted

I use MCW paints every so often and I really like their lacquers. The paint is PPG lacquer.

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Posted (edited)

I have pretty good luck with Model Master 1/2oz Enamel and their thinner.  Lacquer thinner flashes too fast and softens the paint.  It dries fast but at a penalty.  I can get a perfect water gloss with the proper mixing.  I build bikes and race cars where you cannot always polish the paint.  It has to be right the first time.  Clear coats I avoid because it changes the character of the color in my opinion.  Any orange peel is taken care of by choking off the fresh air with putting the parts in a small box and capping it.  It allows the solvents to loosen the flash and it all self levels nice.  Some colors will not dry with a high water gloss even though they are in their gloss lineup.  This I will add a small amount of clear enamel in the last coat to give it help and it works.

 

Edited by jet

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Posted

So last week I went ahead and started wet sanding and polishing and I think it made a difference. On this picture I did not polish the trunk just to see the difference with the orange peel and small dust particles. I since then have washed the body and started to apply the stripe decals. Once I finish with the decals I move on to clear. I am thinking Testors Clear since I know it is decal friendly.... however I also have Rustoleum Clear that I might use, not sure how friendly it will be with the decals.

 

Thank you all for advise and help!  

image1 (2).PNG

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Posted

Not sure if you covered the Cobra emblems with foil.  The paint will build up and be hard to remove.  The respray looks much better.

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