Super28 Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Hello. I'm fixing to retire in August. Want to build the models I saved, Finish the ones I started and to re-build the ones I already built. Been awhile since I built one and from pictures I've seen of some of the ones being built now, mine aren't very good, lol. That's why I came here. I want to learn and need help. I counted and listed the ones I have. There are 112 I have to work on. By the time I get to number 112 I hope to have improved a bunch!. #1 is a 1962 Dodge Dart from Johan.I've attached photos. Want to take it apart and start over. The frame, exhaust and everything on the bottom is one piece. There is really no front end, will have to build my own. Will definitely need help on all of it. Hope you can help. Thanks in advance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mod3l Lover Posted June 21, 2017 Share Posted June 21, 2017 Welcome Terry!! It looks like that one will clean up realnice, that's for sure. The paint will come off with soaking itin the "Purple Power" degreaser that most people use. And I don't see any major glue globs, so you won't haveproblems there either. All the bare plastic needs to bescubbed before adding paint to them. I look forward to seeing it develop and get re-done!! David S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PARTSMARTY Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 What a great car and it doesn't appear that it should be to hard to re-do.Make that mopar proud-lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 (edited) Welcome Terry. A popular method for getting a well-detailed chassis under those early unibody Johan Mopars is to simply substitute the chassis and running gear from one of the Lindberg '64 Dodge kits, which can very often be found cheap. The undersides of all the early Chrysler Corp. unibody range were quite similar visually, and separate-suspension donor chassis and parts are usually plenty close enough to make an accurate representation without having to build everything from scratch. The photo below shows a typical blobular Johan chassis plate on the left, with a Lindberg chassis on the right. The fit of the Lindberg chassis in the Johan bodies is very good, though a slight wheelbase adjustment may be necessary, depending on the particular vehicle being modeled. Edited June 22, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super28 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Wow! Thanks. That will make it a lot easier! Great tip!Knew coming here would work out! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super28 Posted June 22, 2017 Author Share Posted June 22, 2017 Welcome Terry!! It looks like that one will clean up realnice, that's for sure. The paint will come off with soaking itin the "Purple Power" degreaser that most people use. And I don't see any major glue globs, so you won't haveproblems there either. All the bare plastic needs to bescubbed before adding paint to them. I look forward to seeing it develop and get re-done!! David S.Where would I find "Purple Power"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
High octane Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 Welcome Terry. A popular method for getting a well-detailed chassis under those early unibody Johan Mopars is to simply substitute the chassis and running gear from one of the Lindberg '64 Dodge kits, which can very often be found cheap. The undersides of all the early Chrysler Corp. unibody range were quite similar visually, and separate-suspension donor chassis and parts are usually plenty close enough to make an accurate representation without having to build everything from scratch. The photo below shows a typical blobular Johan chassis plate on the left, with a Lindberg chassis on the right. The fit of the Lindberg chassis in the Johan bodies is very good, though a slight wheelbase adjustment may be necessary, depending on the particular vehicle being modeled. Welcome Terry as this is a great place to be and the Ace is right on about using the Lindberg '64 Dodge chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mustang1989 Posted June 22, 2017 Share Posted June 22, 2017 That's why I came here. I want to learn and need help.You're sure to do that hangin' around this place. I came here around 4 years ago for the same reason as the forums that I was on at the time didn't lend themselves to as much help , or talent for that matter, as this place had. I have since found some of these helpful folks out and about in the modeling community on the other forums and am here to tell you that where ever you are now in modeling you can expect to get nothing but better as time progresses. Keep posting builds and pictures and ask LOTS of questions. Keep going no matter how big the successes or failures are and you'll blow yourself away with some of the tricks you'll be learning throughout your stay here. BTW........Welcome aboard Terry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PARTSMARTY Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 What's been said is so true.I have a 62 fury project I started several years ago an I took a 68-70 charger frame and put it underneath it.I trimmed the length front and back and that was it.Wheelbase was perfect-keep it going and we're always here to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Ellis Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 That looks like spray enamel, should almost fall off with oven cleaner. Be careful with the chrome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike999 Posted June 23, 2017 Share Posted June 23, 2017 That looks like spray enamel, should almost fall off with oven cleaner. Be careful with the chromePurple Power is a cleaner/degreaser available at Wal-Mart and other stores. I've always had very good luck with Easy-Off oven cleaner. The only paint it won't easily remove is old flat-black enamel. Which seems impervious to everything, short of maybe napalm or a nuclear weapon.Here's how I use Easy-Off. WARNING: even from a few feet away, Easy-Off fumes WILL attack your lungs and eyes, and you do not want it on your skin. So wear at least a paper safety mask over your mouth/nose, eye protection, and gloves. I'm not being over-cautious. I use Easy-Off frequently and it is not stuff to fool around with.1. Get a gallon-size Ziploc bag. 2. Spray Easy-Off all over the body. If you don't have a place to safely spray, like a deep laundry sink, do this outside. The fumes will be harsh and dangerous. Or you can just put the body into the bag and spray it, but you might miss some spots.3. Seal the Zip-Loc bag and let it sit for about 24 hours. Make sure the bag is well-sealed. That lets the fumes really eat into the paint.4. After 24 hours, and WEARING YOUR SAFETY GEAR, remove the body and scrub it with a stiff brush, under warm running water. That red enamel paint on your Dodge should peel right off. Any remaining paint can usually be removed with sandpaper or sanding sticks, etc. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super28 Posted June 23, 2017 Author Share Posted June 23, 2017 Outstanding! Will try that as soon as I figure out how to get the tail light out without totally screwing them up. Thanks a bunch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alix Bernard Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 Welcome Terry, since I came to this forum my modeling has improved 1000%!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GMCMAN52 Posted June 27, 2017 Share Posted June 27, 2017 I had use the 68 Dart chassis for my 62Dodge project. works well with any Mods Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bisc63 Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Welcome Terry! Try putting the car body in the freezer before breaking loose glue joints - it can help immensely, in fact the freezing process will sometimes force the parts apart on its own. Looking forward to seeing what you make of this funky mopar!BTW, Purple Power is a generic version of Castrol's Super Clean (I think that was the brand name), as mentioned, you can find it at Wal-Mart, also Dollar General, and Auto Zone. It's reasonably priced by the gallon, just get a plastic container with a snap-on lid deep enough to submerge a model car body, and give'er a couple days soak before freezing. Best of luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thatz4u Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 Outstanding! Will try that as soon as I figure out how to get the tail light out without totally screwing them up. Thanks a bunchI use mineral spirits & an old artist brush to deglue ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super28 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Great tips! Will try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super28 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Ok, I got the body and the hood soaking in Purple power. Meantime, I've got a Badger 150 professional air gun. With a regulator is there any reason I can't hook this up to a regular air compressor? Mike999. I appreciate the tip with the oven cleaner but have use it on real cars. Like you said the fumes are toxic and burns if you get it on your skin. Will use it if Purple Power doesn't work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mod3l Lover Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 I have a Badger 150 also. It's a easy to useairbrush with good results! With a regulator in line, you should have notrouble at all. 15-25psi seems to be a good spoton that. And about a 50/50 mix, with light multiplecoats of paint. But the results will be better with agood primer coat first! I look forward to seeing the results as you doyour re-build!! David S. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super28 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 Mod31 Lover, thanks. Can you recommend a good primer or does it matter? Also I'm attaching a picture for reference if anybody wanted know. I soaked a tool box I got in a nascar kit and painted red. Purple Power will dissolve glue apparently. It came apart and most the paint came off with out scrubbing. Got the body and hood soaking now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super28 Posted June 29, 2017 Author Share Posted June 29, 2017 I got a '64 Dodge, "Color me Gone" lindberg kit. As seen in the photo it's bigger than the Johan kit. 1/2 inch longer and 1/4 inch wider. Wider not a problem, but the length, I'll need to take some out the center and some off the back!? I don't know. What ya'll think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 29, 2017 Share Posted June 29, 2017 (edited) I got a '64 Dodge, "Color me Gone" lindberg kit. As seen in the photo it's bigger than the Johan kit. 1/2 inch longer and 1/4 inch wider.Wider not a problem, but the length, I'll need to take some out the center and some off the back!? I don't know. What ya'll think?This is not one of those areas where subjective "opinions" are of any value.Go by the numbers.Measure the wheelbases of both models. This will require dry assembly of the suspension on the Lindberg kit.If they're identical, take material off of the ENDS of the chassis to make it fit the old body shell.If the wheelbase is shorter on the old Johan model, take the exact amount out of the middle of the Lindberg chassis where it will be easiest to splice. THEN, fit the ends as necessary.Remember that it's EXTREMELY important to center the wheels in the wheel openings on the body. Edited June 29, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super28 Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Thanks Bill. Once I cut the frame in two , what is the best way to reinforce it at the cut, or is it necessary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace-Garageguy Posted June 30, 2017 Share Posted June 30, 2017 Thanks Bill. Once I cut the frame in two , what is the best way to reinforce it at the cut, or is it necessary?First, try hard to get your cuts really precise and square. That will allow you to flow liquid cement between the cut ends and get a good "welded" bond. Use a razor saw for your cuts, and work carefully. It's a LOT easier to cut square than it is to try to square up a raggedly line after the fact. Also remember to allow about .020" for the width of the saw cut. That doesn't sound like much, but it's 1/2 inch in 1/25 scale, and it can make a difference in how good your model looks.Also come up with some kind of simple jig or fixture to keep your chassis parts aligned in both planes while the cement sets up (I usually leave large joins overnight, at least).Depending on exactly where you end up cutting, something as simple as a few strips of .040" styrene strip should probably be enough. Just bridge the top of the joined parts, being careful to think about where your reinforcements may interfere with the interior tub, etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super28 Posted June 30, 2017 Author Share Posted June 30, 2017 Thanks Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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