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Foose Cadillac

139 posts in this topic

Posted

Picked one up today at HobbyTown (along with the Foose Ford pickup), where I usually buy current-production kits. The prices are competitive with mailorder plus shipping, and since they are the only nearby place that maintains stock of the supplies I need, I don't mind paying full retail to help keep them in business. Buying supplies and materials online can easily cost double what I pay at HobbyTown, so it works for me.

Anyway, it is a very nice kit. No warp, no problems of any kind, roof fits perfectly...(though the intake manifold looks narrow for a big-block Chebby).

In answer to one of the above questions, there IS sufficient meat to lightly shave the nose of the roof to get a more flush fit with the windscreen, but be advised there is a recess the windshield frame fits into, so moving the roof rearward will cause you more fit problems than you will want to...or need to...deal with. Shaving the front will be relatively easy. Moving the roof rearward...not recommended.

There is a small lip on the leading edge of the roof that will need to be added back with styrene strip if you shave it, but that's VASTLY easier than dealing with reworking the recess for the frame, as mentioned above.

The front suspension is plenty stout to support the car without the wire axle initially, so I fail to see what all the hoopla about that accomplishes. Revell may know that the relatively soft styrene the kit is made from MAY sag over time, and the wire axles may simply be there for insurance. If the wire axle in front bugs you, just omit it, and put a block under the car to support it on the shelf between underside viewings.

Easily worth the $25, and I'll fo' sho' be gettin' mo'.

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Posted (edited)

I'm wondering (without) having the plastic in front of me) what would be the best way to eliminate the roof overhang and make it a smooth transition from roof to windshield. Can the roof be simply moved back or will it require some plastic removed from the length of the roof?

See my response above.

Something else to keep in mind is that the glass mounts to the front, outside, of the windshield frame...so when it's in place, the overhang is far less noticeable or objectionable than in the photo of the kit in primer.

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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Posted

See my response above.

Something else to keep in mind is that the glass mounts to the front, outside, of the windshield frame...so when it's in place, the overhang is far less noticeable or objectionable than in the photo of the kit in primer.

Thanks Bill. I'm kicking around a second build with an LSR theme and that overhang will be unwanted in that case. The front mounted glass is unique in my experience. I'm wondering how to glue that without having the glue joint visible through the glass.

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Posted (edited)

... The front mounted glass is unique in my experience. I'm wondering how to glue that without having the glue joint visible through the glass.

White PVA "canopy" glue, etc. It disappears, dries completely clear, is water soluble when wet. Elmer's, Micro Kristal Klear, etc.

The edge of the 'glass' will need to be trimmed very carefully where the mold-tabs are attached, and polished to look good. The trough in the windshield frame may benefit from being painted or Sharpied black, too. Unfortunately, the trough shows through the windshield after assembly, so body-color may look carpy.

A very fine bead in the trough the 'glass' mounts in, press the glass in place, tape it lightly in position in front. Clean the squeeze-out off the back with wet Q-tips.

Actually, just a drop in each corner would be enough to keep it in place...but you might see a slight trace of it if you don't go all the way around.

Kinda not a great design. Mounting the glass from the rear would have been vastly preferable.

If you've got the skills, removing almost all of the ledge the glass sits on is going to give the best, cleanest look.

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy

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Posted

Revell posted this across their social media today, showing like the Ford P/U, the Eldorod was also 3D scanned. If this can be done for two "one off" kits, I don't want to hear another word about how they can't 3D scan all their subject matter.

21125400_1656270154405245_84159810193611

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Posted (edited)

Hopefully they will be able to 3d scan future releases but it depends on whether of the car owner will allow the process. As can be seen from the pictures there is powder for minmizing reflections

Edited by bobthehobbyguy
added owner

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Posted

Hopefully they will be able to 3d scan future releases but it depends on whether of the car will allow the process. As can be seen from the pictures there is powder for minmizing reflections

That is what I have heard from them.  They need approval and also verify (as best as possible) if the car is accurate.  And, in Revell's case, only get about 5 new tools a year (and a modified reissue that is 50% or more modified is considered a new tool).  

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Posted

I'll be doing a build & review of the Foose Caddy thanks to IPMS (a freebie).  My thought(s) so far are to strip the chrome off the bumpers and make them look like rolled pans and all smooth.  Maybe fill the taillights and make a long horizontal taillight.  Front?  Maybe dual quad headlights and a mesh grille? 

Might take longer to get it because it's coming out of TX.

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Posted (edited)

Fastback roof installed on Foose Cadillac, in progress.

FooseCadillacFastback2.jpg

Did I miss something, has this body made it to market yet?

Edited by Mr. Metallic

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Posted

Did I miss something, has this body made it to market yet?

All have it out real soon. just a little more final detail work.   sam

 

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Posted

Was realy surpised by package h-826.jpg

No chance for window frame to survive.

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Posted

Was realy surpised by package 

No chance for window frame to survive.

A lot depends on the individual packaging and handling of a specific kit.

I bought mine off the shelf at a hobby retailer (where it would have arrived at the store in a case) and it's perfect (as have been some others mentioned above).

I would suspect that individual kits delivered by mail might fare poorly, as the handling is notoriously rough, and packing for shipping of only one can be less-than-optimum

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Posted

They really should have cast the windshield frame as a separate part. 

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