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Scale-Master

LHD Gulf Seven

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The aluminum floor panels are made with holes in them for them to be screwed on to the frame.  I didn't want to have those screws showing so I filled in the ½ dozen holes.  I had to make some new rivets to replace to ones that got lost during the filling.  I dirtied them up following the bottom of my car since it has similar panels.

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Cut and buffed the clear on the side panels and installed them too.

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Edited by Scale-Master

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The (reworked) front suspension arms and shocks have been installed and uses the new hardware I machined to hold it all together.

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Edited by Scale-Master

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Thank you John.

 

The front calipers have been detailed with fittings and hard lines and mated to the scratch-built rotors/hubs and those assemblies installed.  The ball joints/Zerk fittings were installed too.

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So Mark, what are you going to do with that "giant" Philips-head screw in the center of the hub? :D

All kidding aside, the level of this model's detail is amazing!

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Those Phillips heads will not be visible once the wheels are installed. 

There are others still visible that will get fixed with hex head hardware later.  I use them until I know I don't need to worry about disassembling those pieces.

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Somehow missed this one. Looking very good Mark. But I expected nothing less from the Caterham master after all.

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Thanks Bob.  Just having fun with this one.

 

The sway bar comes anodized and I wanted it to be a lighter shade.

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I stripped the anodizing off and polished it.

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And then acid treated it for the final finish.

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Here it is installed with silicone insulation for the bushings and vinyl tubing for the stays at the modified upper control arms.

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The rear frame section that is the spare tire holder and license plate mount will be removable (for weekend racing).  After repairing the damage to the main section from it being a disassembled factory built, I cut the tire/license section off and retrofitted brass stubs and sleeves then drilled them for lock bolts.

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I was able to get the half shaft stubs out of the rear end, but the differential cover and drive shaft would not come off without serious damage, so I had to work with them as one piece.

I hand milled (my fingers turning an end mill) the U-joint bearing caps to make the recesses then made retaining clips for them from wire.  The dampener flange was cleaned up and drilled for the bolts I milled.  Balancing weights were also added.

The differential was textured to look like a cast unit then detailed with more machined hardware including an acid treated fill plug.  A custom decal was made for the plug tag and a vent line was added along with a guide and clamp.

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Mark.......yep,that`s why you are the best......AWESOME work here Sir........gets better and better every build .....WOW!!!!!!

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I just realized there's something missing. Where's the big ruler? Still enjoy seeing these Seven projects come together!

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Funny you mention the big ruler.  I too was just noticing the other day that I hadn't been using it for photos.  I still have it...

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The transmission is done and ready to be attached to the engine.  Sand cast texture was added.  The bellhousing was given a powder coated finish. At least 40 added machined aluminum pieces, (some of them will be installed after mounting to the engine), and another fill tag.

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The transmission is done and ready to be attached to the engine.  Sand cast texture was added.  The bellhousing was given a powder coated finish. At least 40 added machined aluminum pieces, (some of them will be installed after mounting to the engine), and another fill tag.

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Mark......yes, you have opened my eyes to what a "Master" is.......just incredible work Sir.......AMAZING!!!!!!........they just get better and better!!!!!!

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This is beautiful work and I have really been enjoying you progress.

I am especially impressed with your attention to surface texture on elements such as this transmission showing the different metals e.g. cast alloy, cast iron and pressed steel. And the amazing reverse side fibreglass effect on the nosecone!!

This is something that many modellers seem not to consider, including things like the different gloss levels of cloth vs leather vs plastic vs metal/glass in an interior. To me, this makes a massive difference to the "believability" of a model.

Can you enlighten us a little on how you do the cast metal effect? It is probably at the upper limit of coarseness for this scale and would probably be too coarse for 1:24 but maybe you have a suggested variation for a slightly finer finish?

Keep up the good work....

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Thank you for the kind words guys! 

I used talc powder in the paint to create the sand cast texture and it is "scaleable" for smaller models.

 

It took a little more fine tuning than I expected to get the trans and engine mated properly, but worth the effort.

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Mark... This build is just stunning and that engine is just killer. Loving your work and the texture you have added to that engine. Makes everything look so real. Awesome work my friend!

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Thanks guys!

 

Primary fuel filter.  Aluminum with brass bracket and steel spring lock.  Grungied up a bit before installation.  (Big Ruler back by popular demand.)

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Thanks Brian!

 

The fuel tank and filler pipe, both kit parts just painted up with added decals and wiring for the fuel gauge and a machined fitting for the fuel line.  A little staining and grime was added too.

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The kit provides the floor of the "trunk" as a nice sheet aluminum piece. 

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A friend of mine has a plywood part for that piece in his Seven.  So I cemented some thin sheets of birch wood together, stained them with some dark brown acrylic and sealed the bottom with resin and fiberglass for strength.

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