gwolf Posted August 18, 2017 Share Posted August 18, 2017 Before: Body is cracked, it's filthy, there's possibly bleach spilled on it, there's glue burns; all that good stuff. After: If you'd like to see part of the progress in building it, follow along below: An older 32 Ford model I'd bought had an ingenious way of achieving a deep channel over the body without the "read end sink" that AMT 32's get when built without the fenders. The builder has inserted these flat backed cylinders in the body, so that they raised the rear when sat onto the frame. Did they come from the kit? Did they come from another kit? Where did they come from? A quick trip to a small, old school hardware store and I was able to acquire these; I forget what they're called, but they were 20 cents each, so I bought enough for a few builds. I was able to trim these down with a hobby knife to just about the same size as the ones on the red 32 pictured above. An almost perfect fit. The firewall has to be cut out and lowered and a new drivetrain passage area created. Above is a untouched AMT 32 Ford firewall, below is my trimmed one. Now I've got the stance I want. The engine is a donor from an AMT Proshop 32 Ford, a four cylinder like the kind that came in a 32 Ford. There wasn't enough room for the engine using the frame that came with this car. I thought maybe they made it different then (it's an older kit), it's a little shorter, something doesn't fit right. Turns out the floor piece that has the molded-in gas pedal was (heavily) glued slightly too far forward, so the engine wouldn't fit. So now that I know that I may end up using the original frame and removing the floor piece by force if I have to. Big and little whitewalls are from the parts box, wire spoke rims are from another donor 32 Ford. The radiator and shroud will be lowered to match the cowl height as I go on. I'll need to find a donor windscreen at some point, too. Here's the untouched original frame whose floor I had to remove with pliers. Here's the same frame sanded, filed, and washed. I can make a new floor with 1/32" birch plywood or sheet styrene. I'll also need to make some points for the engine mounts out of thin dowel (not sure why those were cut off). The body has been sanded, filed, and washed as well. There will be imperfections after I put a coat of primer on and I'm ok with that; in fact, I want those imperfections. The firewall was sanded so that it will fit well against the body. The radiator shroud was sanded as well. I got one coat of ruddy brown primer on the body tonight as well. Not as bad as I thought it would be. The really bad places are a few areas on the trunk, the area below the trunk, and the passenger side door. I'll salt those areas (thinking of using something finer, powdered sugar maybe) to get the ruddy brown to show through then apply rusting solution, then salt those areas again, then paint. Probably old hat for some of you, but while playing with this extra frame and suspension I thought, wow, I could really get this front end low if I reversed the spring and cross-member. On this new frame I could just cut out the recessed area further, then drop in the tab on the suspension from the other side and voila, you're done. Also, do I need these parts in red on a channeled 32 without fenders? Since the suspension on the glue bomb 32 was literally glue bombed to the frame, I couldn't drill the cross-member, so I tried something I'd never done before; I cut out the whole section of the crossmember containing the suspension and flipped it. While the adhesive on the glue bomb suspension dries, you can preview what it'll look like by using the extra frame and suspension. I'm not used to it yet, and it seems like a drastic change in stance. The glue bomb 32 didn't have a windshield frame or glass, so I'll use this one from the parts box, from an AMT '29 Ford. It fits well, but I don't need all of it. I trimmed off the areas of the frame I didn't need. The chopped a few scale inches off of it. The interior doors got the pinup girl treatment and the seats were lightly cleaned then sprayed flat black (which looked convincingly dirty and old). By the time I was doneI had rusted the frame and suspension, used a parts box stock '32 Ford 4 cylinder engine, cut the radiator and radiator shell down to match the cowl / hood height, and weathered the body using crushed sugar. I used the wire wheels from an extra 32 Ford kit and rusted the caps, then put them on the grungy, bald, hand painted whitewalls that came on my previous glue bomb build. I think it was a good match. I generally like how it turned out, but there are some things I wish I'd done different: 1) Be more careful cutting / trimming parts. 2) Be a man and actually have a few new kits of the same year and model that I can grab parts from. Thanks, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted September 8, 2017 Author Share Posted September 8, 2017 Not one person had a comment? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mahogany Rush Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Great job from start to finish! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mercuryman54 Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 I like it!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DumpyDan Posted September 9, 2017 Share Posted September 9, 2017 Cool, did one my self this year (original-release-monogram-34-glue-bomb/#comment-1809700) It was a lot of fun restoring a piece of junk into something that looks good. Nice save Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1930fordpickup Posted September 10, 2017 Share Posted September 10, 2017 Nice way to save the old glue bomb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwolf Posted September 11, 2017 Author Share Posted September 11, 2017 Thanks all, it's appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bamadon Posted September 12, 2017 Share Posted September 12, 2017 Since no body else mentioned it, the tabs on the front of the frame rails were for a tow bar that was in the old AMT 32 roadster. The tow bar just hooked over the two tabs. I also like how well you brought this back to life. I think my first car model was that AMT roadster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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