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Differences between cheap AB and expensive AB.


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Hi,

Wow, what a difference between my $10 AB and my new Infiniti!

My old AB would need higher pressure to spray and honestly I could not tell the difference in paint flow from pulling the trigger back in varying degrees.

My Inifniti is awesome I totally appreciate the differences.

Still I had much fun with my cheaper AB and will still use it for harsher paints and in a limited fashion.

Now all I have to do is get a .2mm nozzle as I've .15mm and .4mm.  Would love something aorta in between.

 

 

 

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That's some hands-on feedback I can understand. I'm still undecided on just how much I want to spend on an airbrush. Quality results are more important than price at this point. I research and end up confused most of the time.

 

Completely agree. Especially on the last sentence.

Edited by porschercr
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Hi,

I think it's great with avg/low quality and work your way up.

I have a new appreciation for a nice AB now.

It would be super cool to go to a scale model work shop and interact with the pro's to see how they do things.

They'd give you tips and tell you what you are doing wrong etc...

I may go to my LHS and see if the guy there (who I think is a wizard) can help guide me as I still struggle with rattle can and AB.  I'll bring my paints and model.

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That's some hands-on feedback I can understand. I'm still undecided on just how much I want to spend on an airbrush. Quality results are more important than price at this point. I research and end up confused most of the time.

 

For a car modeler, unless you want to do murals or VERY fancy custom paint or very sophisticated weathering, I don't think you can go wrong with a basic Badger 350 or Paasche H. Keep in mind that a GOOD air source is AT LEAST as important as the airbrush itself. You can get set up quite nicely with both for $150 or less.

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For a car modeler, unless you want to do murals or VERY fancy custom paint or very sophisticated weathering, I don't think you can go wrong with a basic Badger 350 or Paasche H. Keep in mind that a GOOD air source is AT LEAST as important as the airbrush itself. You can get set up quite nicely with both for $150 or less.

Thanks, Snake. Would you be able to describe the strengths/weaknesses of those airbrushes?

I want to paint with colors and finishes not found in spray cans. Nothing fancy or sophisticated.

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Can you show us your Infiniti? I googled it and can't find it. I get Infiniti HAIR brushes.;)

Hi,

It's the Two in One found here;

http://www.harder-airbrush.eu/en/infinity.html#infinitysolo

Feels great in the hand.

However in my latest MCM mag there is an ad for this;

http://www.grexusa.com/grexairbrush/products.php5?id=Tritium.TG

However as Snake pointed out, we are not doing anything complex, just cars etc...

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For a car modeler, unless you want to do murals or VERY fancy custom paint or very sophisticated weathering, I don't think you can go wrong with a basic Badger 350 or Paasche H. Keep in mind that a GOOD air source is AT LEAST as important as the airbrush itself. You can get set up quite nicely with both for $150 or less.

Ive been toying with the idea to look into airbrushes for paints not avail in rattle cans - I just took a look at the Badger 350. In all honesty it doesn't look ANY different than my Harbor Freight one for $10.

 

No more than I use it, I can use it and toss in the trash once done. In all honesty I dont use it more than 3 times in a 5 year span

 

what gives ?

 

 

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Ive been toying with the idea to look into airbrushes for paints not avail in rattle cans - I just took a look at the Badger 350. In all honesty it doesn't look ANY different than my Harbor Freight one for $10.

 

No more than I use it, I can use it and toss in the trash once done. In all honesty I dont use it more than 3 times in a 5 year span

 

what gives ?

 

 

I've bought a couple of Chinese-made airbrushes in that price range that are obvious knock-offs of the Badger 350. One I haven't used yet, the other I've only used to spray clearcoats, which it's done well. I have no idea if it will last as long as my 350, which I bought in the early '80s. Also, extra nozzles and parts aren't available for them, and I'd be willing to bet their threads don't interchange with American products (based on my experience with other Chinese knockoff products). 

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Bill the cheaper ones do not have the same quality of seals in them,  It has been reported it is a BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH shot on how long they last. 

I figured it had to be something simple.  I'll have to consider it sooner than later. There are more and more kits I want to build and the colors I want are not avail in rattle cans

But for the price of the HF ones I can use it and drop it in the trash once I'm done with it.  I might dive deeper into one when retirement comes in the next few years and Ive got more modeling bench time on my hands.

Edited by gtx6970
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Hi,

Nice info on the Grex.

I think the difference between costly stuff and cheap stuff has been for me, the feel in hand and its longevity.

I suppose if you don't AB much, a cheapy will do and makes more financial sense.

But after all, this hobby of ours is not about practicality but rather pure enjoyment.  So what the hell right, splurge!

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...I think the difference between costly stuff and cheap stuff has been for me, the feel in hand and its longevity.

I suppose if you don't AB much, a cheapy will do and makes more financial sense.

But after all, this hobby of ours is not about practicality but rather pure enjoyment.  So what the hell right, splurge!

I agree entirely. I enjoy the actual using of quality tools, and can't stand dicking around with something that is marginal at best.

Since part of the pleasure of modeling to me is the actual using of good tools and materials, I usually don't try to cut corners on price.

On the other hand, if something will do a comparable job for less money...which doesn't happen often, though it does sometimes...I'm certainly not above using the knockoff if funds are tight.

The last several real cars I've painted, which were top line, I did with early Chinese knockoffs of SATA guns, which I was used to using. The knockoffs performed so well, for a fraction of the price, that I kept them as backups for more than 25 years. They've been well maintained and still work fine...all except the touchup gun. The seals in it failed after the first use.

Not bad for a knockoff gun...

dscn1302_vw9a.jpg

 

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