Lowering the 66 AMT Pro Street Nova

[rbarton]

Hello,

Looking for suggestions on how to lower the AMT '66 Pro Street Nova.  I've been building awhile but have never lowered any vehicles that I've built.  This car, in my opinion sits way too high. I don't want it dragging the doors but it needs a lower stance. I don't want to start hacking away without some guidance. Thanks for reading and I appreciate the advice.  

 

Rick

[KWT]

Can't really help with the back end, but if you flip the spindles upside down it'll drop it on the front end. I have done that part.. I

think if you add a couple small blocks between the springs and axle it'll drop the back down too.. haven't done that though.

[rbarton]

Thanks for the advice. I'll try it

 

[Ace-Garageguy]

1) Though KWT gave you good advice for a car with leaf springs that attach under the axle, I believe the AMT kit you mention has a coil-spring 4-link setup. His advice doesn't work with that.

2) That kit assembled correctly sits right for what it is. It's got big slicks in the rear, and they need to clear the wheel tubs. If you lower it in the rear very much, you're probably going to have tub clearance issues, and you'll end up having to hack the chassis up too.

3) I have that kit in stock, and if nobody beats me to it, I'll have a careful look and let you know more details.

Is this the look you want?    

Edited October 16, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy

[Ace-Garageguy]

Hokay...I found the instructions online, and the rear is suspended by short "leaf springs" mounted under the axle.

This means that KWT's advice WILL work.

Just be sure to remember that you can only go as low as the fit between the slicks and the wheel tubs will allow.

Once the slicks contact the tubs, you'll have to cut the tubs loose and move them up relative to the rest of the chassis if you want to go lower still.

[rbarton]

Bill,

Yes sir, that's the look I'm after. Thanks for the advice, much appreciated. 

[Force]

You can do as Racing Champions (RC2) suggested when they did the Rides Magazine version wich is based on the 66 Pro Street Nova, this was before Round2 took over.

Here are the parts you were supposed to use...I don't know what they were thinking. 
Are the drive shafts made out of rubber or...?

Edited October 16, 2017 by Force

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

You can do as Racing Champions (RC2) suggested when they did the Rides Magazine version wich is based on the 66 Pro Street Nova, this was before Round2 took over.

Here are the parts you were supposed to use...I don't know what they were thinking. 
Are the drive shafts made out of rubber or...?

I've never seen that before....WTH??? That's some krazy sheet right there... -RRR

[Ace-Garageguy]

...Here are the parts you were supposed to use...I don't know what they were thinking. 
Are the drive shafts made out of rubber or...?

 

I've never seen that before....WTH??? That's some krazy sheet right there... -RRR

It's my understanding that many car "modelers" neither know nor care how cars work, or what's correct.

To quote one recent poster "...it's just a plastic model car man.(opposed to a replica)  It's not going to the Smithsonian. They're only supposed to look cool."   

Edited October 17, 2017 by Ace-Garageguy

[Rocking Rodney Rat]

 

It's my understanding that many car "modelers" neither know nor care how cars work, or what's correct.

To quote one recent poster "...it's just a plastic model car man.(opposed to a replica)  It's not going to the Smithsonian. They're only supposed to look cool."   

Yeah, I get it to some extent. As I always say about building in scale: "It doesn't have to work, it just has to LOOK like it does." But a rubbery rear axle is taking it to the extreme!!! -RRR

[Mark]

RC2 put those goofy "articulated" rear axles in some of the kits in those series (Rides Magazine and Boyd Coddington) in order to fit those wheels.  The outsize wheels are the only ones included in those kits...rumor at the time was that the inclusion of those, and only those wheels, was part of the licensing deal.  Look at the front spindle (just above the axle parts) on the same tree: the attachment point for the wheel is clear above the upper A-arm.  They could have just stuck a molded slab chassis in there, it would have been about as credible.

I've got the Coddington '57 Chevy (based on the old Trophy Series kit).  It too has an articulated rear axle, tooled to fit the same mounting points as the correct stock piece.  If that ain't enough for you, the wheel halves in that kit go together with the disc brake caliper/rotor in between them...