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    • Dave Ambrose

      General Usage   05/10/2017

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My newest project-the Foose FD100 Pickup aka The Overlord!  I was very happy when this kit was announced and when I acquired it from my local Hobby Lobby with my 40% off coupon, I was ecstatic! That all turned to disappointment when I opened the kit and saw a baggie inside with two metal axles.  The instructions verified what I had feared-a metal axle going through the oil pan!  To me, this was inaccurate.  I am going to correct these inaccuracies with this build.  The metal axle in front will be replaced with a set of coil springs on the A frames and the notches in the frame have been filled.  The supports on the rear of the frame have been removed.  The body will be painted with Testors One Coat Lacquer Deja Blue with a grey interior.  I chose the blue since I am not fond of painting black and the '56 Ford F5.0 built by Kindig-it Design was a dark blue metallic that really appeals to me.

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Edited by mrmike

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I agree with you on the metal axles, to much like going back in time. I agree with others that have felt Revell may have been concerned with the strength of the front control arms as they are very small but in scale. Nice job on filling the frame notches. I also saw the 5.0 F100 build and agree with that idea.   

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Finally!  Someone who agrees with me on the metal axles!  Thank you Espo!!!  I can understand the concern for strength of the front control arms.  The upper and lower control arms, when joined and glued properly, should be rather strong.  Unless you intend to play with the truck afterward, then the control arms will snap!  

I got the Roush 427 engine assembled and ready for primer and paint.  This engine will be painted black.  I plugged the hole in the oil pan with a piece of styrene I had lying on the bench.  It was also pointed out that there is quite the gap between the cab and the bed wall.  I used my Dremel and a grinding bit removed some plastic fromthe leading edge of the running boards by the lower front fenders.  This helped close the gap.

More to come...

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I felt the same exact way about that stupid hole in the pan with a................................metal axle rod going through it???????????????IIIIIIIII Very nice save on that oil pan Mike. I did pretty much the same thing on mine and will be deleting that from rod the front of my truck as well. That Rousch engine builds up sweetly right out of the box other than that. I've got my engine somewhere around 70% completed and it's one of the finest scale engines I've ever put together. Will be watching your take on this build.

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Thanks Joe!  I'm glad that I am not alone with my feelings towards this kit.  Now, just to be clear, I am liking this kit and so far everything is fitting where it should.  There are some things that bother me enough that I need to correct them.  With that said, I am moving forward with this build and I do have high hopes for a great looking model!  

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That's gonna be a bitchin ride lol 

Can't wait to see this progress 

Metal axles...still ????this is 2017 right not 1970 .  Man the armor guys are so spoiled with updated kits and yet the car / truck kits languish back in the 80s..guess cost of updating tooling doesn't offer any incentive 

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I guess as modelers, we can correct the inaccuracies we find in new tooled kits.  It has been mentioned to me several times that this Foose kit is an updated original '56 Ford F100 kit-and it is NOT!  The Foose Ford FD100 Pickup kit is a new tool kit.  I think the metal axles are for playing with the newly assembled kit.

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A little bit of progress to report.  The cab top leaves a bit of a gap above the rear window, so out came the Bondo to fill in the gap.  I inserted two lengths of 1/16 styrene rod into the back of the front wheels with some glue.

More to come...

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I painted the wheel centers with Humbrol Metallic Grey and when that dried, I coated the wheels with two coats of Model Master Semi Gloss Clear.  The Roush 427 R motor got two coats of Model Master Aluminium Plate and two coats of Model Master Semi Gloss Clear.

More to come...

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Looking good so far. Thank you for painting the wheel centers. How did you mask the outer rim? I know I was taken aback when I saw the metal axles, but it does not look that hard to convert back.

 

Mike

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Thanks Len and Mike!  I painted the wheel centers by hand.  Now, I just need to pick out the lug nuts with some chrome paint.  It took a couple coats of paint to get them covered like I wanted them.  I almost threw the wheels into a container with some Easy-Off so I could paint them with my airbrush and then paint the rim with my Molotow Liquid Chrome pen.  

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I painted the Foose FD100 this morning with Testors De Ja Blue One Coat Lacquer.

More to come...

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Snazzy looking, Mike. I look forward to seeing you build this one. I'll be following along.

Also looking forward to hearing your thoughts on it all going together.

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Thanks Jeremy!  Based on what I have done already, this kit goes together really nice.  No surprises, things fit like they should, and the few mods I made to correct what I think are issues with this kit, are easy to do.    

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Well, it had to happen.  My painting luck has turned against me.  At first, I thought the paint was so hot that is crazed the plastic, but I'm starting to think that the hot Testors paint reacted with the Tamiya primer.  This morning, I tried to polish the paint with some Meguirs Scratch X 2.0 and the rough surface turned smooth.  There is still no luster as I think the Tamiya primer may have been a little damp when I started to spray the Testors De Ja Blue One Coat Lacquer and the primer may have mixed with the paint.  I am planning on a wet-sanding session to see if the primer had mixed with the paint and if I can save the body as I do love this color.  Time will tell...

More to come...

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I hate the paint gremlins!!,hopefully you can save it.

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Definitely will try!  A wet sanding session and maybe another coat of paint.

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I think you idea to wet sand the body and give it another color coat will be best. While I like these paints the amount of metallic in the paint makes them tend to come out a little rough. I would suggest trying a couple of light clear coats even though they say it isn't needed. The clear might help fill some of the low spots from the blue finish and then your polishing the clear instead of the blue.  

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David, you are correct that this paint does come out a little rough due to the metallic, but a decent polishing does level out the surface a bit.   

Well, it seems that I take two steps forward and one step back.  I didn't like the job I did on the wheels when I painted the spokes.  I tossed them into a container with Easy-Off to strip the chrome and paint and I'll start over.  The frame has it's suspension and the distributor has plug boots.  I just need to attach the base and paint it.

More to come...

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I was looking at the interior parts and I noticed that the seat has no back to it.  I'm sure it doesn't show, but I had to put a back on the seat just to satisfy myself.  The wheels are out of the Easy-Off bath and were washed.  A little cleanup and they'll be mounted and ready for paint.  I haven't decided on using flocking or embossing powder for the carpet.  Decisions, decisions.

More to come...

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Watching this one with interest for sure.  Have you mocked up the driveline yet?  It seems the rad sits awfully close to the pulleys on the engine.

 

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