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68 SWB Chevy (AMT GMC stepside kit)


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This is my attempt at a 68 SWB Chevy truck, using the AMT kit as a starter. I have the bed from Bandit  and am happy with the fit and ease of assembly. I have a Cummins motor from Trailer trash kustoms that I will be attempting to stuff under the hood. I know its not a likely build in reality as it is a 1/2 ton frame and the Cummins motor is simply too heavy for a stock 1/2 ton frame, but none the less would make an awesome 1:1 truck done right. The Cummins motor is a front sump oil pan so clearance could be an issue, we shall see. If the Cummins doesnt work out, I will be putting in an LS motor of some sort. So far I have only gotten the cab and bed prepared and layed down some primer, checking body work. I have attempted to enhance the body lines (Doors and Drip Rail) and applied Tamiya Black Body line accent color. I have opted for a stock 67-68 hood versus the cowl hood for now, as aesthetically it looks much better. I want the front wheels to be posable as well. This will be a slow build as I want to take my time and bring out as much detail as possible. Any suggestions are welcome.

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Edited by kmc3420
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The inline 6 Cummins fits well actually, and shouldn't have any trouble making an intercooler fit. I did turn the oil pan to rear sump configuration, the fit is much better that way  

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Edited by kmc3420
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now that is different!

wish i paid only 60 for mine.....check out this chebby

 

 

That is a very nice 67, 67 & 68 are my favorite c10's years. Chevrolet has made the Camaro and Corvette still, however their trucks are lacking. Unsure why they would not make a 67-72 modern style truck. I am sure they would sell a ton of them. This truck is their first attempt at a high HP truck in my opinion in a long time Chevy cheyenne

Edited by kmc3420
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IMG_0473.thumb.JPG.de2caf7be6dfdaf233ca3I have begun work on the posable front end. @Can-Con helped me with a few pictures of his recently completed C10. I am following his general idea on the front end. 

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I will be making the spindles next and the center link. I think I can detail the control arms a little better as well. 

 

 

Edited by kmc3420
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Looks good Keagan. 

You could have made the uprights more "L" shaped with arm the wheels attach to on the top and had it a bit lower in the front and still clear the wheel openings, that's how I did mine. But it does look good that way too. 

If you find that you have interference with the wheel opening you can try moving the wheel in a bit closer to the frame if necessary. 

Mine's not finished yet BTW. Got my 1/1 T/A back home last weekend so I've been spending my free time with it instead of at the model bench.

IMG 2232 

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Looks good Keagan. 

You could have made the uprights more "L" shaped with arm the wheels attach to on the top and had it a bit lower in the front and still clear the wheel openings, that's how I did mine. But it does look good that way too. 

If you find that you have interference with the wheel opening you can try moving the wheel in a bit closer to the frame if necessary. 

Mine's not finished yet BTW. Got my 1/1 T/A back home last weekend so I've been spending my free time with it instead of at the model bench.

IMG 2232 

Thanks sir. I have not glued anything yet. I better double check my ride height and make sure it's not sitting too high. I think where it sits now is pretty close to the wheel opening. That's the good thing about mocking it up, allows for corrections. 

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I have gotten the chassis, cab, bed and interior all primed. I have also primed the cummins, however the resin is a bit porous so trying to get a few more coats of primer laid down. I am going to lay down one final coat of white primer next. I am undecided on the color at this point. 

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Edited by kmc3420
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5 minutes ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

I really like this project!! The Cummins does weigh almost twice as much as a Big Block Chevrolet, but I've also seen plenty of conversions. I believe this truck could be done in 1:1. Great work so far! I'm looking forward to seeing more!!

Oh yeah. I concur. If they can stuff a 12 valve into a nova or chevelle. There are ways. Or use the 4BT. Thanks for following along. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/12/2017 at 2:34 AM, camaroman said:

Where can I find the green at?

I can pull the code from my 1:1 ...

That would be helpful if it gets me closer for sure. Thanks. Would just need to find a place that can replicate or get me close. 

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IMG_0636.thumb.JPG.26cb76b133313f3c8e34aefac6e9ac97.JPGNot much progress as of late. Have been super busy, working on my 1:1 vehicles, and the holidays. The frame has its final  coat of matte black  I will most likely tape off the control arm cross member and the trailing arms and paint those gloss black for a bit of contrast. 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Been a minute since I have made any progress being the holidays are super busy, however, back at this and excited to move forward. Working on getting the engine painted. The resin motor was anything but smooth and took a lot of sanding/fine tuning to get it where I wanted it. Its much improved now. I have added my SS brake line, front to rear, and painted the block. Allowing the paint to dry before moving forward.

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On ‎11‎/‎11‎/‎2017 at 10:29 AM, Can-Con said:

Looks good Keagan. 

You could have made the uprights more "L" shaped with arm the wheels attach to on the top and had it a bit lower in the front and still clear the wheel openings, that's how I did mine. But it does look good that way too. 

If you find that you have interference with the wheel opening you can try moving the wheel in a bit closer to the frame if necessary. 

Mine's not finished yet BTW. Got my 1/1 T/A back home last weekend so I've been spending my free time with it instead of at the model bench.

IMG 2232 

 

1-29-17 DONE G.jpg

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