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Molotow chrome refills sprayed with airbrush

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Has anyone here done it? Ive heard others talj about it with great results i just have a few questions. 

Firstly does it require a black base coat like alclad does?

And secondly what psi do you spray at

 

Thanks 

 

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It doesn't require a black base coat -- goes on perfectly well over primer (Tamiya Fine Surface in Grey in my case). Obviously it's only as smooth as the primer. so you need one with a good finish. I do most of my airbrushing at around 20 psi, but that's so dependent on what airbrush you have, it's not necessarily much help as advice. My top tip is to make sure you shake the refill tube very well before decanting it into the brush for spraying...

best,

M.

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I've been testing it since summertime, have a comprehensive article submitted to Scale Auto for (I think) April issue. It's great stuff.

Forget everything you learned about Alclad/Spaz Stix chromes...this is far more user-friendly and looks much better. If you demand perfection, continue using professional services that do vacuum plating. 

In general: 20 psi is good (no thinning required), it covers anything and everything as it's very pigment-dense and sprays just like real paint; you want smooth? Make sure you spray it on a smooth surface. Spray it WET. Let it dry a minimum of 24 hours, 48 is even better, before handling, putting in a dehydrator, whatever. 

Recently bought the Best Model Car Parts Corvair Rampside that someone here posted, have been working on it now for a couple weeks. It's about ready for paint, here is the chrome I shot this weekend:

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2v2JofrrUxvKa6.jpg[/img]

2v2JofrMJxvKa6.jpg[/img]

The spoon above is Molotow w/airbrushed overcoat of Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear. Try that with Alclad or Spaz Stix!

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What sort of airbrush are you using?

4 hours ago, Zoom Zoom said:

In general: 20 psi is good (no thinning required), it covers anything and everything as it's very pigment-dense and sprays just like real paint; you want smooth? Make sure you spray it on a smooth surface. Spray it WET. Let it dry a minimum of 24 hours, 48 is even better, before handling, putting in a dehydrator, whatever.

 

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1 hour ago, Miatatom said:

What sort of airbrush are you using?

 

I've shot Molotow through both an Iwata HP-CS Eclipse and a Grex Tritium TG. Equally good results.

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On 1/2/2018 at 7:38 PM, Zoom Zoom said:

I've shot Molotow through both an Iwata HP-CS Eclipse and a Grex Tritium TG. Equally good results.

Can you mask the molotow without a clear coat or is it too delicate? Seems like it could be great for exhaust parts and headers.

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11 hours ago, DiscoRover007 said:

Can you mask the molotow without a clear coat or is it too delicate? Seems like it could be great for exhaust parts and headers.

I tried it on a spoon test with some Tamiya yellow masking tape. Even though sprayed months ago, it pulled up some of the chrome effect. On a spoon that I clearcoated with Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear (which hardly touched the reflection of the Molotow), no problem. 

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Bob,

Do you know how that Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear holds up over time as far as yellowing/other bad things?

Thanks,

Russ

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8 hours ago, russosborne said:

Bob,

Do you know how that Spaz Stix Ultimate Clear holds up over time as far as yellowing/other bad things?

Thanks,

Russ

No I do not. Hoping it's UV stable; it's clear in the bottle. It hasn't been around long enough to compare with products that have been around for decades. I had some replating done years ago by a guy in Canada (Chrome Plus??) who used way too much clear over the parts, and the clear he used yellowed over time. 

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Thanks.

I was worried that stuff was too new, guess it is just a matter of trying it and waiting a few years. :rolleyes:

Russ

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