Belugawrx Posted November 30, 2018 Share Posted November 30, 2018 Love watching a good scratch Thanks for sharing Andrew Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted November 30, 2018 Author Share Posted November 30, 2018 I know it's important. I do, I honestly do. But we're talking about process, man. What are we talking about? Process? We're talking about process, man? We're talking about process. We're talking about process. We ain't talking about the game. We're talking about process, man. sorry just had an allen Iverson flashback .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belugawrx Posted December 1, 2018 Share Posted December 1, 2018 ....its just a process.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 so work begins on the 3 D printed wire wheels and tires - the rims feature very precise - and very small - radial spoke holes 64 on each rim - in two rings - outer and inner the holes are "printed" into the part and are simply opened with a # 82 drill and no - I can't do this without magnification .... will use some sort of fine line for the spokes - to be wound around each hub in a jig that I will set up - the hubs will be turned on the Sherline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 5, 2018 Author Share Posted December 5, 2018 the tires are printed in the same translucent material as the rims and feature a terrific tread pattern and super accurate sidewall features and lettering - Model factory pico has designed a number of different vintage tires and I suspect that he gets a little better each time .... while I'm about to set up the jig I have the following question - either for Pico - or for Mr. Michelin .... wire has to be wound through the rim spoke openings and around the hubs - but in what pattern ???? I have enclose two possibilities - the first is from Wingrove's bible the second is from the instruction sheet for the Wills Finecast Delage or maybe there is a third way .... ???????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Duh.........Andrew, it's been a while since I checked in here and boy have I missed a bunch. Admire the creativeness throughout the thread and the scratch-building is just fantastic. I've learned some great tricks / methods already from you and hope you take your time on the car so I can learn even more. Cheers, tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pico Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Third way, be back later.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pico Posted December 6, 2018 Share Posted December 6, 2018 Starting at 1, pull monofilament fishing line to 2, which is the first hole to the left of 3, which is directly across from 1. then to 3 and thread it on the opposite side of the hub to 4. Then start the sequence again at the first hole to the right of 4. Notice this method is only usable with rims that have holes in multiples of 4. Spoke diameters vary widely, but a spoke of 1/4" diameter would be .010" in 1/24th scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 6, 2018 Author Share Posted December 6, 2018 thanks Codi - and can you tell me the name of the (once) young man who composed "born to be wild" ?? and you want me to take my time on the car ? - its been on my workbench for a year - I'm not sick of it yet .... but ..... actually I haven't gotten to the fun part yet - which as Pico knows - will be the finish on the body panels .... and thanks to Pico for ..... the third way ....(insert announcer in echo chamber) now its back to the lathe to make the hubs ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 7, 2018 Author Share Posted December 7, 2018 the first hub - dimensions based roughly on the corresponding hub in the Wills white metal Delage kit - shown in the third picture shaped with a ground cutter - like the one used on the axle halves - only smaller - with the headstock swiveled a few degrees for the taper then parted and set in the jig today's pico question - the spoke wiring will partially obscure the hub - so should I paint these things before I wire them ?????? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pico Posted December 8, 2018 Share Posted December 8, 2018 The spokes will not obscure enough on the hub to be a problem with painting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 workshop space is limited so before I wire up some wheels I'm doing some more machining on the Sherline lathe and mill finished all four hubs and now machining some instr bezels for the dash - as pictured in 2 photos on page 1 some bezels will be machined from nickel silver rod but the bezels for the tachs appear to be brass - there are two tachs - not sure why - maybe the pounding and vibrations expected in a GP race in the mid twenties caused frequent instr breakage ?? - they may be run separately off of the separate cams - they appear to be the gauge opening is .160 with a bezel just wide enough to allow for some small dimples to be milled onto the ring - the tachs were screwed into the dash.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 so the basic shape is cut on the lather and then the chuck is removed fr the lathe and set up on the milling machine with an indexer tool - to drill the dimples to suggest the screws - each dimple drilled at 60 degree intervals ... using .015 cutter for the dimples - .012 would be more scale accurate - but I broke my .012 cutter - and besides - .015 is easier to see! the chuck is then returned to the lathe to part the bezel from the brass stock then a test shot to show size relation to the tach decal from an Indycals 1/32 Bugatti sheet - this is about right - if I use these decals I'll have to remove the Bugatti script fr the gauge - but that will be easier than making my own Delage gauges ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 14, 2018 Author Share Posted December 14, 2018 oops forgot to include a shot of the milling machine set up with the cutter sorry for the iffy focus - actually - I don't see the part that much better than this under magnification - maybe a little sharper ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pico Posted December 14, 2018 Share Posted December 14, 2018 Lookin' good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted December 15, 2018 Share Posted December 15, 2018 I'm a sucker for those kinds of details Andrew. That bezel is simply perfect. Always a treat to check your progress. cheers, tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 thanks to Mr harrisburg so begins the great wire wheel experiment always wanted to try this .... using soft steel wire just less than .010 - which is actually over-scale - but looks better to humans than scale wire would it has a tendency to twist during the back and forth thru the holes and around the hub so the results are OK but Pico suggested fishing line instead and I think I now know why ... gonna try that for the next wheel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 17, 2018 Author Share Posted December 17, 2018 also did some more machining with nickel silver the steering wheel photo-etch is an accessory fr profil-24 - and is accurate for this car - but I machined a button the photo-etched part is not accurate for the Delage and is not 3 dimensional the bevel on the face of the button is machined by rotating the headstock about 30 degrees the cap at the end of in the fuel pressure pump is machined and then scored with a fine file nickel silver is fairly "soft" - so the file leaves its pattern marks then the transmission case inspection cap and the stick shift receptacle ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 merry new yr I'll call this the radiator cap from hell ... the first two parts - from nickel silver round bar stock fairly straight forward - things got difficult from there ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 then I've got to saw a slot into the cap body - the chuck is handy for that and then solder a tab from nickel bar stock and then I made a sort of hinge on the back side of the cap body took four attempts to get that right ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 so the hinge in the third picture is the part that I ended up turning fr nickel silver with the flats filed in the lathe - using the bars of a four jaw chuck as reference points to file the flats ... - no intention of making a working hinge for the pressurized cap handle just want something that looks right ... then I had to make the cap handle and the latch that sits over the tab on the front of the cap .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 so these shots show the nickel silver handle that was filed from nickel silver and the latch for the front side of the cap Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 so now I've got a radiator cap with a handle that I can easily slip onto the radiator shell once everything is painted .... now to the dash .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted December 30, 2018 Author Share Posted December 30, 2018 the instr panel is cut from .016 alu sheet using the plastic dash cutout that I had made months ago as a rough guide with a test fit in the body and a test fit of the tach bezels ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 more panel work w test fit of tach bezels the steering column brace is made fr evergreen stock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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