absmiami Posted January 2, 2019 Author Share Posted January 2, 2019 the gauges are from Indycals Bugatti set in 1/32 with the Bugatti script whited out on the tachs with a dab of acrylic paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 3, 2019 Author Share Posted January 3, 2019 panel almost finished bezels are placed in while Micro Scale clear finish is setting the micro scale will glue these in place - the stuff is still drying on the left hand tach - the bezel for the gauge to the right of the tachs is missing - its cavorting with the dust bunnies in some unseen corner under my work bench - where it flew when I dropped it I hate when that happens .... gotta make a few more nickel silver parts anyway gonna work on the steering wheel and maybe try another wire wheel - this time with monofilament ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pico Posted January 6, 2019 Share Posted January 6, 2019 Nice work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 steering wheel ..... Profil24 photoetch rim plus renshape drew the outline and shaped the holes with a reamer and sanding drum then glued the renshape sandwich with epoxy and drilled the two small holes on the rim spoke the renshape is not really wood - but kinda looks like it in scale, the wood grain - renashape has no grain - isn't really visible so this will do Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 the renshape sandwich is filed/sanded down close to the outer edge of the rim and then chucked onto a foredom hand drill the shaping is finished on the fordom with sanding sticks. then - if you go back to page one - the wheel rim on the restored car has some tape and a section of some sort of string or cord done here with thread which is coated in floquil lacquer glaze the tape on the rim is about a 1/16 inch strip of old masking tape that is real sticky - wrapped and "painted" with a sharpie real hi tech ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps46 Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Oh man you nailed it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Codi Posted January 7, 2019 Share Posted January 7, 2019 Gorgeous Andrew. You're one heck of a scratch-builder. I did chuckle with your description of the missing bezel. I don't know if I could shrug it off as easily as you, but hey, it does happen. Always scratch my head over where in the heck those missing pieces actually ended up. Great build is all I can say sir. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 thank you Mr. Harrisburg ... I'm only 126,000 views behind your Bantam dragster - and catching up fast !! there is a third dimension somewhere in the modeling universe wherein we will find all of our lost model parts - from which someone will someday assemble one great model car ....... the back of the steering wheel gets a couple of wires, and a ring and collar to attach the steering wheel to the column the wires wrap around the collar and then disappear under the instr panel they connect the buttons on the steering wheel to what ??? probably something to do with the ignition and probably a necessary safety feature added in the restoration ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 7, 2019 Author Share Posted January 7, 2019 and by the way Tim - the answer is Mars Bonfire ....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 gone fishin' Pico's recommendation to use monofilament line for the wire wheels was not random works much better than the steel line of the same diameter as you wind the line in and out of the holes and around the hub it twists but this stuff is easy to un-twist so everything come out straight and tru lesson learned ..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 10, 2019 Author Share Posted January 10, 2019 bottom "wire" - strung per Pico's pattern and then the top wires everything came out great - the last path of wire worked its way out of the groove at the top of the hub - but that is easily fixed glued the beginning and ends with super glue and away we go .... per the page 1 photos, the wheels will be painted royal blue probably some Tamiya acrylic that I picked up in a small hobby store - that's right - a hobby store! - in Queens ! no less ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps46 Posted January 11, 2019 Share Posted January 11, 2019 The wheels are gorgeous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 OK - the wheels are done - maybe not - mite try to "unwire"" the first wheel that was strung with steel and replace with fishing line the shapeways parts are made with a very tough material that I think will survive this surgery - but I'm not sure - thinking about it ... now on to the wheel nuts - again depicted in the photos on pg 1 will make these from nickel - could make them from plastic but the nickel finish will contrast nicely with the dark blue wheels - so away we go ... the first wh nut - shown here - was not so great ... tried a slightly different approach for wh nut II have to file a well defined slot onto the top of the "nut" and solder a bar across that when finished - is integral to the nut surface - then place the part back on to the lathe to drill the opening for the end of the axle - 1/16 hole ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 so wheel nut II came out al little better but still had to figure out how to solder the silver bar onto the turned part at a close to 90 degree angle got better on that on wheel nut III so I'll do a couple more .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted January 21, 2019 Author Share Posted January 21, 2019 and the wheels may indeed be gorgeous if I paint them well ... I'll take a bow for the hubs but Pico has to take a bow for the printed wheel rims and tires scratch-building these components in 1/24th would be treacherous. in fact - these are the only proper 24th scale grand prix tires on the planet - for the 1923-1928 grand prix cars - think Alfa, Bugatti, Voisin etc. .... Profil 24 makes quite good tires - but better for the following era. .... by using properly drawn 3D printed parts - I just have to follow the dots and do the assembly - and use fishing line and not steel! Pico - are you bowing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randy D Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Hello Andy, Great fun watching you work your magic on this one! Those wheels are just stunning!!! Really enjoy your use of different materials throughout this build' Learning something every update. Randy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gramps46 Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 The wheels and nuts are looking great, congratulations. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pico Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 Alright , I'll take a bow. Here's an image of the tire in Sketchup. It's the best 1920's tire but it almost the only one, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Breezy Posted January 25, 2019 Share Posted January 25, 2019 this is an awesome read. The rivers were the doldrums but I sailed on and it was worth it. Your work is amazing and your in-depth posts make it even more interesting. Those wheels are crazy very cool that fishing line will support the weight of the vehicle. Also the wavy pieces that receive the rivers are very well done. Happy to be following this now. Wonder what happened to frenchie 1500? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 must've been snoozing ... finished the wheel knockoffs - each one got a little better made some solder corrections to the first one and I've got an acceptable set of four Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 good time to stop and do a susp mockup to check ride/chassis height caliper checks on front and back - think I've got it right - looks pretty even will have to check the width - front and back - also .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 next - the brakes - front and rear - are cable operated - off of levers the front brake cable lever pivots from a cross bar running from the top of the brake drum to a pick up bolted to the chassis - probably not a great idea - but this was actually carried forward when the 1927 Delage was designed ! there are some very good pix on page 1 so I made the chassis pickups - left and right - from some evergreen L bar and a short length of br tube think the tube is .047 then drilled the perorated patterns with a number 82 drill - so just about .010 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 so the pickups are cut off of the L bar stock and then glued to the chassis with some pins for accuracy - they will get nuts after painting - and strength the second picture shows how the cross bar meets the pickup that will be made later - the plastic rod is in place to check height for the pick up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 so I also need to make the friction shocks - most pre-war race cars had these the delage had opposing pairs of these shocks left and right on the rear suspension and 2 more sets of shocks under the chassis fairing up front for these I'll use model factory pico's castings the rear shocks - seen here - are made from pieces of nickel silver - discs and bars soldered and then bolted together with an .070 mm section of bolt the discs - 3 in each shock - are turned on a lathe - .010 width and about .190 width - which is just less than 5 scale inches Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absmiami Posted February 22, 2019 Author Share Posted February 22, 2019 here's how they are made the joint is tricky - used silver solder for strength and hand filed for the taper the fine cutting saws sold by UMM are helpful here ... you may have seen these made in larger scale on the excellent Voisin build on the BritModeler site ...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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