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absmiami, January 4, 2018 in WIP: Model Cars
the CMK razor saws sold thru the UMM-USA site came in handy here
taped guidelines on to the tail and sawed narrow slots to outline the lid over the fuel tank
this will not open - the metal beneath is too thick
and the tank underneath is not original on the restored car anyway
now to the bonnet - which was cast in two parts = with lots (unavoidable) of excess of wh metal buildup and flash
using mostly hand drills, and large to small metal files, I am prepping the surface - top and bottom
openings will be covered in mesh - and removing ALOT of white metal - have to reduce the thickness of the parts by about 50%
changes to bonnet for the '24 "hybrid" restored car -
soldered over the rear inward louvers and filed and sanded everything smooth
now starting to file channels on either end of the bonnet to retain the bonnet straps
again - used tape to guide the filing
and yes - balsa wood can ignite - "so don't try this at home"
1.0 mil tube soldered w tix solder onto bonnet edge and then hand filed for the hinge
Pico's casting uses - I think - burillium (?) which seem to be less prone to deform while soldering - higher melting temp?
don't think you can do this on the Finecast white metal - has anyone been able to ??
always wanted to try this - Wingrove has made his bonnet hinges from brass for decades ....
still not real time - but I'm catching up ....
beautiful work ...
OK, I am really impressed now.
The metal is Britannia metal, which I used due to its low melting temperature, silvery look and ability to be highly polished. Mold was made of Smooth-on Mold Max 60. The white metal used by Wills Finecast is much softer, also floppy in comparison, lower melting point, much grayer color and cannot be polished nearly as well.
hope these load properly
will try to re-post if not
not sure why these are loading upside down
stupid computer tricks ...
more bonnet prep
bet files that are too large might load improperly ??
No problem, Andrew, the photos are correctly loaded.
still upside down ?
managed to reduce the thickness of the bonnet panels to about .040 - which is reasonable
how much metal have I filed off of this thing ? See the jar ...
it hinges - but I need more "hinge" - will have to file away some more metal
So I sawed apart a section of the right hand bonnet to make a second hinge - per the photos
trying a smaller dia. brass tube - 0.70 mil - which in scale is about 3/4 of an inch
closer to scale than the central hinge - but I wanted some extra strength at the center...
filing the slots on the smaller hinge - but using the same square files
and soldering the second length of tube for the opposing hinge ...
hinges assembled for initial check
strength is good - but I need some more "fold"
will correct this while I add more details to the bonnet
I'm sure you worked through this already but the center hinge tube wants to be attached to the outside face of the hood while the secondary hinge wants to be attached to the inside face of the hood. That gets you the maximum opening.
I see your dilemma in trying to solder the tubes in that manner without adding a bunch more parts.
Are you wanting to leave the hood fully open or just enough to show what's inside? I think the way you accomplished getting the hinges on there in the first place trumps the ability to fully open it.
I see a yellowish/gold tint to the metal. Is that real or just a consequence of lighting? Is the metal easy or difficult to file? In other words, are you constantly having to clean the file or is there sufficient hardness to the metal that keeps the file clean?
Awesome build and I'm looking forward to seeing more progress.
I accidentally discovered a way to turn white metal to gold. Keep quite about it.
the slight yellow cast is due - I think - the light reflection on the cast surface
more tweeks to the bonnet;
a filet of evergreen plastic added to the bonnet edge
strips of brass and plastic added to the underside of the bonnnet
and drilling the first of many holes for the copper rivets
replaced a left sided louver that was had lost it's definition
nickel silver rod filed and soldered into place
louvers added to the right side of the body
these were super-glued in place, along with the rounded opening, which was filed from a chunk of cast metal
experimenting with Lab-metal to fill in some casting imperfections
What Pico said!
nothing to add ...
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