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1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Ditto.

I use as much as 4 or 5 coats of clear before polishing.

Better safe than sorry. :)

 

Steve

I only use 'bout 3 coats of clear as I paint my car bodies using as little paint as necessary so I don't bury the chrome trim, the emblems, lettering, badges, etc.

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I use LMG polishing cloths. I usually start with 3600 depending how bad the orange peel is. Then move to the next highest grit. 4000, then 6000 , 8000 , then the final 12000. 

orange peel is like a mountian...  it has peaks and valleys...  when you start sanding the peaks become dull and the vallyes are still shiny. when you get to where there is no shiny spots left the paint is flat .. then you can procede to the next highest grit. that grit takes out the scratches the previous grit made... 6000 takes out the 4000 scratches 8000 takes out the 6000 scratches etc.   till you get to the end 12000 and there are no scratches left.. and you should see shine.  then you can use a good plastic polish , or wax to shine it up and protect the finish.

Hope this helps...     oh....  I use Novus 3 part plastic polish

Edited by D. Battista
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23 minutes ago, bubbaman said:

yea but there was orange peel i could see and if i put  clear on there wouldn`t it be the same once i got down to the paint where than i could see the orange peel dissapear or does the clear coat cover the orange peel ??

orang peel won't dissapear..    paint hides nothing...  it inhances flaws , even clear

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1 hour ago, High octane said:

I only use 'bout 3 coats of clear as I paint my car bodies using as little paint as necessary so I don't bury the chrome trim, the emblems, lettering, badges, etc.

Depends a lot on what type of clear you're using.

I use nearly nothing but Duplicolor clear in a spray can & routinely use 5 coats.

I don't have issues with burying trim until you go beyond that.

I use as many as 5 coats of primer, usually 3 or 4 color coats & up to 5 clear coats.

Still not a problem.

 

Steve

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I used to clear-coat everything. Now I prefer to polish the color coat itself if I think I can get away with it. BUT this requires planning. Quite a lot depends on the shapes and contours of the car itself, and the color, and the type of paint, and even how the paint is applied. Can't do it every time, but it sure looks great when I can pull it off. 

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2 hours ago, Snake45 said:

I used to clear-coat everything. Now I prefer to polish the color coat itself if I think I can get away with it. BUT this requires planning. Quite a lot depends on the shapes and contours of the car itself, and the color, and the type of paint, and even how the paint is applied. Can't do it every time, but it sure looks great when I can pull it off. 

You have more guts than I do! :)

This is the only reason why I apply as much clear as I do.

To be as certain as I can that I don't polish through the paint.

But, I guess when you're building rare vintage kits & using hard to strip automotive lacquer, you do whatever is necessary to insure that you don't have to do any repeats! :P

 

Steve

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16 hours ago, bubbaman said:

my first time sanding the  1st paint - i used  4000 and went thru the  orange  yes i did a primer  and that is what i see now  should i use a higher number ???

Don't take this the wrong way,  but you need to work on your painting , it sounds like you need to thin your paint a bit, and you wont get that much orange peel.

And clear cote it, then polish it.

Edited by DeeCee
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Many years ago I wrote an article for Tamiya when they first started to sell their rattle cans.  Although it was aimed at rattle can painting, it applies to all forms of painting gloss finishes and I think it is still worth a read.  Apparently Tamiya thinks so also as it has been on their web site for over 20 years. https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/painting-with-tamiya-synthetic-lacquers-35?article-id=35#.Wl9tbainGMo

Edited by Pete J.
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4 hours ago, Pete J. said:

Many years ago I wrote an article for Tamiya when they first started to sell their rattle cans.  Although it was aimed at rattle can painting, it applies to all forms of painting gloss finishes and I think it is still worth a read.  Apparently Tamiya thinks so also as it has been on their web site for over 20 years. https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/painting-with-tamiya-synthetic-lacquers-35?article-id=35#.Wl9tbainGMo

Excellent article Pete...!  thanks for sharing  ..!

This is how I was taught ..      One guy said, that always stuck with me was,  You only finish as good as you start....

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  • 1 month later...

I use 2000 grit for just about everything. I will use 800 to get the bulk of the flash off and 400 for shaping big things. As far as paint goes I go for automotive paints. They give you better control over your mix ratios so you can compensate for temperature and humidity. I will normally do 2 coats of primer sanded with 2000. 3 coats of color sanded with 2000. 2 coats of clear sanded with 2000 then polished with McGuire's then rubbed with show glaze (32 ford)

I have also used Model Master custom lacquer system with great results. I used the same process but I used the color as the primer (wasted money). Lacquer clear doesn't like to be sanded. Just use a very soft "NON SYNTHETIC" cloth and gently rub it for a couple of hours with light applications of a good carnuaba wax.

(41 Chevy pickup)

IMG_20180207_221808288~2.jpg

IMG_20180217_231321556.jpg

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