Best Masking Tape to use.

[foxbat426]

Hi, I'll be doing my first masking job and was wondering if it is necessary to use  a tape specifically for model use or would something off the shelf work just as good, such as painters tape, scotch tape, electrical tape, etc etc.

 

Thanks John

[Erik Smith]

Tamiya masking tape. 

[Tom Geiger]

John, Tamiya tape will give you a clean painted edge. It is expensive by some folks standard, but worth it.  You don't have to use it for the entire mask job. It's okay to use the Tamiya tape for the edges where it's important, then fill in the other areas with Painters Blue tape.   Don't use a tape like electrical tape or anything else that will leave behind residue.  Also, you want to be careful that you don't use a tape that adheres too well because it will pull the paint off your model.

 

 

[foxbat426]

awesome!! Thank you. The local hobby lobby has it so I will pick it up. Just wanted to be sure.  Will pick up the Tamiya tape.

 

Sincerely, John

[Miatatom]

Don't ever use electrical tape. It leaves a nasty residue. I like 3M thin line auto tape. It is a little thick though but I've learned to use it and minimize edge creation.

Edited January 18, 2018 by Miatatom

[StevenGuthmiller]

2 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

John, Tamiya tape will give you a clean painted edge. It is expensive by some folks standard, but worth it.  You don't have to use it for the entire mask job. It's okay to use the Tamiya tape for the edges where it's important, then fill in the other areas with Painters Blue tape.   Don't use a tape like electrical tape or anything else that will leave behind residue.  Also, you want to be careful that you don't use a tape that adheres too well because it will pull the paint off your model.

 

 

Everything he said!

 

Steve

[martinfan5]

Tamiya.

[Snake45]

I've been getting along for years now with whatever masking tape Walmart sells--I think it's usually Duck brand. The trick to getting good results is to lay it out and razor-cut the edges. I usually cut a bunch of thin strips at the same time, and use those for all edge masking, and then use it "stock" from the roll for filling in larger areas.

[BigTallDad]

1 minute ago, Snake45 said:

I've been getting along for years now with whatever masking tape Walmart sells--I think it's usually Duck brand. The trick to getting good results is to lay it out and razor-cut the edges. I usually cut a bunch of thin strips at the same time, and use those for all edge masking, and then use it "stock" from the roll for filling in larger areas.

I do the same thing. Use a clean piece of glass and lightly press the tape in place. Cut the tape length-wise with an Xacto knife and ta da you have two pieces of tape with extremely fresh edges.

[Tom Geiger]

One final tip I learned from auto painters.  Never let your roll of tape sit on the work bench or fall on the floor.  The side will pick up dirt and it will hurt your fine line.  You will find my rolls of tape on hooks over the bench.  I've trained myself to put them back on the hook each and every time!  

With the Tamiya tape.. buy the one with the dispenser.  Next time you can buy the replacement bare roll. You need to protect that edge

[Snake45]

28 minutes ago, Tom Geiger said:

One final tip I learned from auto painters.  Never let your roll of tape sit on the work bench or fall on the floor.  The side will pick up dirt and it will hurt your fine line.  You will find my rolls of tape on hooks over the bench.  I've trained myself to put them back on the hook each and every time!  

With the Tamiya tape.. buy the one with the dispenser.  Next time you can buy the replacement bare roll. You need to protect that edge

That is exactly why I always used razor-cut strips anytime the edge is important. 

[foxbat426]

Ok so a question about using regular masking tape and cutting that with a razor knife for a clean edge.  When you lay the tape down on the glass, how do you get a nice straight edge?  A ruler? Also By sticking the masking tape on the glass doesn’t the tape lose some of its adhesion quality?  Thanks again for all the great info.

[Snake45]

1 minute ago, foxbat426 said:

When you lay the tape down on the glass, how do you get a nice straight edge?  A ruler? 

Well of course. A nice METAL one, too. And I don't use glass, I use styrene (I have a LOT of the stuff). Much easier on the blade itself. 

It doesn't lose any measurable amount of stickiness. Not at all. 

[Psychographic]

The type of tape I use depends on what I'm masking. Smooth surfaces such as a body, I would do the edge with a "plastic/vinyl" style tape automotive tapes followed with a "crepe" tape to fill in the rest of the area.  Covering large areas such as doing a two tone on a body I would mask with a vinyl tape cover the rest with Glad Press and Seal kitchen wrap, then cover the edges with crepe tape overlapping the vinyl tape and Press and Seal. A note on using the vinyl style tapes, don't stretch them over dips and valleys and then push them down, they have a memory to them and will want to lift back up (usually at the worst time).

For surfaces that are rough or irregular such as a chassis plate, suspension parts, or an engine, I find crepe paper to be far superior to to adhere to the surface. Again, Press and Seal is great for covering the rest of the area.

I avoid any household masking tape as it is low tack and made primarily for use over latex. Solvents can penetrate the tape and attack the adhesive and leave it stuck on your part after removal, or worse soften the color you are masking and cause damage.  It's also quite easy for solvent style paints to creep under the edge due to the low tack.

When you paint over tape capillary action occurs, for that reason, the thinner the tape is, the less of an edge you will have when you remove it. The thinnest tape I found is called "The Edge by Finesse. The only problem with this tape for use on models, it won't make a tight bend. I've used this tape for about 30 years and find it to be one of the best out there,

https://www.finessepinstriping.com/edge/

 

One last thing, ALWAYS burnish the tape down after you have it set where you want it and again just before you start spraying.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask.

Edited January 19, 2018 by Psychographic

[Tom Geiger]

10 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Well of course. A nice METAL one, too. And I don't use glass, I use styrene (I have a LOT of the stuff). Much easier on the blade itself. 

It doesn't lose any measurable amount of stickiness. Not at all. 

I'd beware of cutting a fine edge over styrene. The knife blade would cut into the surface, and that would result in styrene dust into your fine edge and tape adhesive.   VS the knife gliding over glass.  I have a heavy piece of glass as my work surface. It's evenly flat and when I clean the bench, I'll scrape it clean of glue and paint with a single edge razor blade.

 

[D. Battista]

On 1/18/2018 at 8:29 AM, Snake45 said:

I've been getting along for years now with whatever masking tape Walmart sells--I think it's usually Duck brand. The trick to getting good results is to lay it out and razor-cut the edges. I usually cut a bunch of thin strips at the same time, and use those for all edge masking, and then use it "stock" from the roll for filling in larger areas.

This is how I do it also, but I buy 3M automotive tape  2" wide so I can cut flame patterens and other graphics too.  

I have always had great results with the 3M  

[D. Battista]

11 hours ago, foxbat426 said:

Also By sticking the masking tape on the glass doesn’t the tape lose some of its adhesion quality? 

I use a hobby cutting mat.  I lay all my tape on the mat first ...  just so it takes a touch of the adhesive off...  not sure if it's nessesary just how I do it.

I've been told tamiya tape is great to use , but I have not yet tried it.        Good luck..!

[Snake45]

9 hours ago, Tom Geiger said:

I'd beware of cutting a fine edge over styrene. The knife blade would cut into the surface, and that would result in styrene dust into your fine edge and tape adhesive.   

 

It's all virgin styrene, meaning it's never been heat-molded and is very soft. There is no "styrene dust" when I cut into the stuff, any more than there's "cheese dust" when you cut into cheese.