Best way to replicate a vinyl top?

[cruz]

I have heard from the masking tape trick to the textured paint, how would you guys go around doing this???? I want to do it for the first time either w/ my current build or on a future '69 Nova project!!!

[Harry P.]

Masking tape: labor intensive. Plus after you apply the tape you still have to mask the body and paint the "vinyl".

Much better/easier/faster way: paint alone.

1. Apply thin strips of masking tape or "Chartpak" type tape to represent the "seams".

2. Mask off the body and spray the top from a distance, in order to create orange peel. Yup, this is one time where you WANT orange peel!

Simple, huh? Why mess with masking tape, vinyl top "kits", texture paint, etc.? All you need is a can of semigloss black (or whatever color you want your top to be).

[cruz]

I like that Harry, the less work, the better. I thought about that but didn't think the orange peel would be convincing, seeing the picture of your model proved me wrong! That's how I like it, w/ pictures!! Thanks!!!

[Harry P.]

I like that Harry, the less work, the better.

That's my motto!

[Brian Fishburn]

I second what Harry said- doing it that way looks good, looks authentic, and is easy. Just make sure you mask well. I use Krylon semi flat black, and it gives a nice "just Armoralled" look to the top.

The same technique also works very nicely to simulate a sprayed-in bedliner for a truck, too.

[Jairus]

The simplest method is always the best!

First off, hold up your model car and determine the distance your eye sees the car in scale.

Then go out and look at a car from that same 1:1 distance and truthfully tell me how much detail you actually see in the vinyl roof?

Not much if you are truthful. More likely it is the semi gloss appearance you are actually seeing along with the two seams running from the front window header to the back glass moldings.

My suggestion is to get some spray glue from the local craft store. It is usually made by 3M and is also called "Photo-mount". What you do is mask off the rest of the body and then shoot a light misty coat or two of the spray glue on the roof after using evergreen strips to replicate the trim edges and the two seams.

Let the glue dry a few hours and shoot some semi gloss black (if new) or flat black (if a few years old). This process works with white, tan or any other color vinyl roof.

Plus, you can use the spray glue to replicate the texture that undercoating creates on the chassis as well....

If the texture is not deep enough.... do it again!

[cruz]

Jairus, you are a genius man, I decided to try the 3M glue trick for the vinyl top and I am absolutely in love with the results man!!! It went on perfectly and once I laid my semi-gloss coats it really popped!!! I laid 2 soft glue coats within 1/2 hr. of each other and the rest is history. People, go out and try this!!!!

This is how the can looks, I got it at Michael's.....

If this is not a vinyl top look I don't know what it is!!!!!

I took a picture with a lot of light bouncing off the spoon, it is less glossier than this. I used a mixture of gloss and flat back for a semi gloss look, I can always play w/ this mixture and ultimately come out with the glossy or satiny surface I want.....

[Jairus]

Your welcome! Always glad to help...

[samdiego]

I just picked up a can of Testors Vinyl Top paint from the same line as the Fabric Black. Initial test shows that the grain is a little large. Jairus' method looks like it may be a better way to go.

Edited July 9, 2008 by samdiego

[MrObsessive]

Cruz, you've seen my Turbine Car in person...............Although it had texture molded in, I used Polly Scale Engine Black for the roof. It has just the right sheen of vinyl and you can even brush paint it on if you want without showing any brush strokes.

I don't know if any hobby shops carry it in your area......I happened to pick mine up at Tommy Gilbert's Hobby Shop in Gettysburg.

He's mostly a train shop but a lot of his stuff translates into models.

[cruz]

Cruz, you've seen my Turbine Car in person...............Although it had texture molded in, I used Polly Scale Engine Black for the roof. It has just the right sheen of vinyl and you can even brush paint it on if you want without showing any brush strokes.

I don't know if any hobby shops carry it in your area......I happened to pick mine up at Tommy Gilbert's Hobby Shop in Gettysburg.

He's mostly a train shop but a lot of his stuff translates into models.

Thanks for chiming in Bill, I bought about 5 bottles of this thing also, I know how well they perform and it's exactly what I will use to paint that roof. I like the fact that you can brush it, that way I don't have to go too crazy with masking but I still might decide to airbrush it, you know how it is, once you get used to the benefits of an airbrush you are least likely to go back to the old fashion ways!!!

[Jairus]

Airbrushing also equally distributes the paint. I have noticed that flat colors if brushed on tend to have an uneven sheen all across the surface due to uneven thickness which effects drying time somewhat. You want the roof to look perfect because that is the first thing a viewer sees.

I spray even the smallest areas now!

[Lyle Willits]

I do it exactly the way Harry described.

[drodg]

So I am going to replicate my 1:1 72 Duster 340 and it has a vinyl top and this is an old string of recommendations.  My question does any artist adhesive work?  I don't think 3M actually makes this anymore or it is under the Scotch label.  Thanks!

[Xingu]

My guess is that it would be a struggle to get it to conform to our small scale models without visible creases or bubbles. Give it a shot and post your results.

[StevenGuthmiller]

Harry's method still applies today, and it's the easiest way to get a convincing vinyl top with materials that you probably have on hand.

All that you need are some thin plastic strips, or tape, or whatever you choose to use to replicate the seams, and some black spray paint.

 

I prefer to use flat black paint, sprayed from a distance.

Then I use the "finger oil" technique and rub my fingers over the finely textured paint to add a slight sheen to the surface of the "bumps".

This will give you a very realistic look, unlike many other methods that can look out of scale on a 1/25th scale model.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[NOBLNG]

This is gloss black with one coat of Tamiya flat clear on top sprayed from a distance of 8”-10”. I did the gloss black first so that I could apply the decals.

Edited November 11, 2020 by NOBLNG

[peteski]

Using spray adhesive doesn't make sense to me.  Spray adhesives that I have, when sprayed on, produce a rubbery adhesive layer.  Any paint sprayed over that will then have to flex and stretch if you touch the roof area.  The paint might start cracking.  Plus, as it has been said earlier, in 1:25 scale, properly scaled vinyl texture would be almost invisible to the eye.  Just semigloss or satin paint should make a convincing vinyl roof. If more texture is needed, spray it from the distance to produce that fine orange-peel effect. No rubbery spray adhesive needed.

[drodg]

Thanks guys.  I will use I assume Evergreen strips for the top seems.  Interesting the different blacks one uses.  

[drodg]

My 72 Duster that I am replicating.   

[StevenGuthmiller]

10 hours ago, drodg said:

My 72 Duster that I am replicating.   

There is a perfect example of how the vinyl texture is nearly imperceptible.

 

 

 

Steve

[StevenGuthmiller]

11 hours ago, drodg said:

Thanks guys.  I will use I assume Evergreen strips for the top seems.  Interesting the different blacks one uses.  

Evergreen strips, or you can use thin strips of something very thin such as the .007 "clear film" that I used on this '69 Coronet.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

[drodg]

12 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Evergreen strips, or you can use thin strips of something very thin such as the .007 "clear film" that I used on this '69 Coronet.

 

 

 

 

 

Steve

Thanks Steve.  That looks accurate.  

[doorsovdoon]

I do the overlaps of the vinyl by laying down masking tape, leaving a thin gap where I want the lines then spray with filler primer, about two coats no more than three. Texture then is done by holding the rattle can, semi black or whatever colour you like, about three feet away. The particles almost dry before they hit the roof, a few coats like this keeping the can about three feet away gives the vinyl roof texture. I've used this method for years, though on 1-1 car parts like dashboards, but works just as well on model kits.

[Dave72]

Wow! A lot of great info here on this subject! Thanks to all for sharing.