1/24 Photoetched Leaf Spring Sets from Minor

[Casey]

While looking for more realistic leaf spring options, I stumbled upon these 1/24 scale Minor photoetched brass leaf spring sets, so I ordered one of each, and they arrived today. Set VMD24002 is designed for use with the Italeri Land Rover LWB kit(s?) while set MVD2400 is for use with the "U.S. WWII 1/4 Ton Truck", aka, Jeep, and each set consists of over 100 pieces each, 158 for the Jeep specifically. All leaves are separate and have an existing bolt hole in the center, so they are a bit limited for use with vehicles which use symmetrical leaf springs, but I'm sure one could get creative and re-drill new holes (while hiding the existing holes) as necessary.

I have yet to start assembling them, but did take comparison pictures with a few kit-sourced leaf springs: Revell '57 150 Black Widow, Revell '69 Charger R/T, and MPC Jeep Commando front and rear leaf springs. The Jeep leaves are small, as expected, and would need to be used on a small/compact sized vehicle, while the Land Rover leaves are a bit wider and longer, so better for medium or mid-sized vehicles, and maybe even compact trucks, too. These are very nicely detailed, with separate spring hanger brackets, shackles, and spring clamps. You need to supply a few bolts to hold the spring pack together and to mount the assembled springs to the brackets/shackles, but Model Motorcars, Ltd. or JB Motion can supply those. Having a photoetched bending tool is a good idea, too.

Cost was about $14.00 U.S. each, plus $5.00 or so for non-tracked shipping from Australia. The paperwork says 1/35 scale on the Land Rover springs (which they also offer), but they are 1/24 scale. I will take some exact measurements at a later date and add them to this post.

 

Edited January 31, 2018 by Casey

[SfanGoch]

I mentioned Minor PE leaf springs a couple two or so years ago. I installed VMD24000 on a Hasegawa MB. The key to getting the springs to work is soldering the nuts onto the bolts on the springs and shackles. It's tedious; but worth the effort. I also replaced the axles with brass tubing in both differentials. I'm curious as to why you ordered the sets from Australia. You could have ordered direct from Minor. And, you get tracked shipping.

Re leaf springs for civvy wheel, they're easily scratched. I made a set for a less than impressive, heavily reworked Revell '55 Chevy (The old, maligned H Series kit) using scrap PE frames and other scrap metal bits. I used measurements provided in a restoration parts site and worked from there. Total time for a pair of leaf springs - 3.5 hours. They are workable and have scratched, working coil over shocks too. 

[SfanGoch]

I forgot to mention that, instead of brass bolts, you can use Masterclub resin nuts and bolts to attach the hangers to the MB frame. They're super detailed and are strong enough to support them.

[Casey]

18 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

I'm curious as to why you ordered the sets from Australia. You could have ordered direct from Minor. And, you get tracked shipping.

Here's why:

TO BUY

 

Please send an e-mail to info@minor-web.com with the complete product name and reference you want to buy, also your address, and we will contact you.

Also you can contact to our dealers

 

Easier and faster to order off eBay. They shipped within a few hours and I had no issues with delivery, which was less than $4.50 U.S.

One of the thing I like about the Minor leaves vs. handmade is the leaves which are to be curled and have their ends closed are thinned on one side, making that job much easier and the end result neater. For $14 or so, I am guaranteed perfectly even leaves, centered centering bolt holes, perfectly symmetrical brackets, and zero need to draw, print, expose, and etch my own parts...well worth the $14 to me. Since I'm not using them on the intended vehicles anyway, exact fit isn't a concern, either.

I do have miniature nuts and bolts in hand already, so I just need my reading glasses and hope I don't launch to many onto the floor. 

Here's a utility trailer I'm using some of the leaves on now:

[SfanGoch]

Zei gezunt. I just brought up scratching springs because, let's face it, all leaf springs aren't created equal.  Vehicle-specific, different lengths, different leaf widths, etc. If you want rivet counter quality, you have no option except to make your own. Photo etching your own isn't necessary. Like I said, using scrap PE frames or K&S brass strip stock can be used. Annealing the ends of of the leaves which require rolling allows you to do so without fancy bening tools and whatnot. The ones I made are identical in width, each leaf is the proper length and all holes, hand drilled with a pin vise, are centered and everything aligns properly. But,  hey, that's me. 

Edited March 1, 2018 by SfanGoch

[Casey]

15 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

Zei gezunt. I just brought up scratching springs because, let's face it, all leaf springs aren't created equal. 

Well, I posted this in case anyone else was interested in seeing what these are like up close. I always assume people know they can scratchbuild their own, well, just about anything, given enough time, patience, and skill, but again, this post wasn't intended as a tutorial, just a "here's something which is available.." type deal.

19 minutes ago, SfanGoch said:

Zei gezunt. I just brought up scratching springs because, let's face it, all leaf springs aren't created equal.  Vehicle-specific, different lengths, different leaf widths, etc. If you want rivet counter quality, you have no option except to make your own. Photo etching your own isn't necessary. Like I said, using scrap PE frames or K&S brass strip stock can be used. Annealing the ends of of the leaves which require rolling allows you to do so without fancy bening tools and whatnot. The ones I made are identical in width, each leaf is the proper length and all holes, hand drilled with a pin vise, are centered and everything aligns properly. But,  hey, that's me. 

You should post a tutorial (maybe you have on another online forum?) or the finished work (or best, both) so people can see what that involves and what the end result looks like. I'm sure I'm not the only one who would like to see that.