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Airbrush paint questions


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Hi guys. I finally broke down and got an airbrush and compressor. I picked up an Iwata Eclipse brush and their Sprint Jet compressor. I got tired of screwing up my paint jobs with rattle cans. (I've apparently lost my touch with age :P I'm not really sure where to begin. What kind of primers work well with what kinds of paints and then clears? Please keep in mind, I have no LHS. I have WalMart and Hobby Lobby. Thanks ahead of time.

PS: I've done a search for "airbrush" and read what comes up for it, but I couldn't find anything that addresses which primer work with which paints and which clears. Thanks!

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Hi guys. I finally broke down and got an airbrush and compressor. I picked up an Iwata Eclipse brush and their Sprint Jet compressor. I got tired of screwing up my paint jobs with rattle cans. (I've apparently lost my touch with age ;) I'm not really sure where to begin. What kind of primers work well with what kinds of paints and then clears? Please keep in mind, I have no LHS. I have WalMart and Hobby Lobby. Thanks ahead of time.

PS: I've done a search for "airbrush" and read what comes up for it, but I couldn't find anything that addresses which primer work with which paints and which clears. Thanks!

Well what I have been using of late is:

Tamiya rattle can primer, great stuff. I prime everything with Tamiya primer.

You choice of color, I have been using both Testors Enamels and Acrylics. Acrylics dry fasters but don't seem to have the shine as Enamels.

However, that doesn't matter much if you clear. In fact I have used a flat base and cleared over that. That helps a lot with enamels slow drying time, especially with gloss colors.

I have been just clearing with Future. I have had much better luck and results with Future than with glosscote aka clear lacquer.

But have airbrushed just about everything over everything else and have not had any real problems. The above systems seems to work best for me. You may find another that works as well or better for you.

I did get a few Testors Lacquers however, the color selection is limited, and I haven't experiemented with them yet.

I think the bigger thing is get familar with your airbrush and learn it very very well. There is NO substitute for practice and experience especailly with an airbrush.

Get you paints mixed correctly. The tend to be thin and some colors need several coats to cover. Don't try to do it all in one session.

A booth helps a lot to cut down on dirts and trash.

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I paint all my parts with an airbrush.... but prime with.......

(wait for it)

Tamiya or Plastikote rattle cans!!!!!!

:lol:

Sorry dude that is the truth. ;)

Yup, me too, Tamiya rattle can primer ... ya can't beat it. Not only does it work great, you save yourself from mixing up a batch of primer, shooting, and cleaning your airbrush.

In fact, somes I'll even use Tamiya rattle can color. The Cobra below was done with Tamiya rattle can Italian Red, and cleared with Future sprayed through my airbrush (a Badger 150 and 200). I do have an Iwata Eclipes CS but haven't brushed furture through that brush.

Edited by CAL
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Thanks for the great replies. Have you guys used Duplicolor primer? It's the easiest to come by here. I don't have a Tamiya dealer close. (over an hour drive to nearest one) Also, what do you think the Future with to spray it? Thanks a ton, guys.

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I use Tamiya Primer as well as Plasti-Kote primer. If you have an automotive paint jobber around your town you may be able to find Plasti-kote T-237(gray). Black and white are also available.

I'm not into primer through the airbrush either, but with specific paint I try to keep it all in the family if I can.

Chris

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Thanks for the great replies. Have you guys used Duplicolor primer? It's the easiest to come by here. I don't have a Tamiya dealer close. (over an hour drive to nearest one) Also, what do you think the Future with to spray it? Thanks a ton, guys.

I am not sure what the questions is on Future. ;)

I'd be worth mail ordering Tamiya spray if you don't have them locally.

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I mix it down about two parts Future to one part Windex Glass cleaner. Then using about 25psi... shoot about 4 or five misty coats allowing an hour dry time between. The Future and the Glass cleaner both contain Ammonia and that will lift decals "faster than white on rice" if put applied too heavy.

So I build it up with light coats allowing them to shrink and tighten between, thus sealing the decal. Then about 4 more good shiny coats and you done.

You get a drip.... which is a huge bummer, so just wet sand it out in a couple of days after letting it dry real good. Then apply more clear if needed or simply polish and wax that spot.

Incidentally, this is the same process I use for Tamiya clear-coats with either a spray can or shooting through the airbrush. Tamiya clears will raise decals too if applied too heavily.

:)

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I use Plastikote gray primer exclusively, and yes out of a rattle can. You can get them reasonably priced at MIDWAY Auto.

I use several model Iwatas . . . and stay within the 20-25 airpressure range . . . being careful to mix the consistency of the paint well.

My best advice is to practice spraying for a few days and mixing up the paint and trying it on test panels . . . until you feel comfortable.

I use House of Kolor paints for my shiny models, and Floquil and Tamiya for my rat rods and junkers . . .

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Boy, those Tamiya flat finish paints are REALLY flat too! :blink: No wonder the military rivet counters use gloves to handle the models. One greasy finger print really shows up like a cold sore on Christy Brinkley's pouty little lips....

(How's dat Harry?)

:)

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Boy, those Tamiya flat finish paints are REALLY flat too! :blink: No wonder the military rivet counters use gloves to handle the models. One greasy finger print really shows up like a cold sore on Christy Brinkley's pouty little lips....

(How's dat Harry?)

:)

:blink::lol::lol:

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How do you spray it though the airbrush? (or do you?) I've heard of using it for years, but I've never tried it.

I was a long time nonbeliever in this miracle elixir, but it does have it's applications.

Oh, yeah, I spray it. It is a little tricky, but very forgiving.

I think it's plenty thin out of the bottle, almost too thin.

To get a real nice gloss finish you have to lay it down as heavy as you can. You will get some sags and runs, but most of these will go away when it dries, but you may have to sand a few spots out. If you don't it tends to be awfully orange peely.

Again, not something I do in one session, it usually takes about three applications.

Edited by CAL
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Thanks a ton for all the tips and advice. It looks like I've got a big learning curve ahead, but it should be an enjoyable one, I hope. I'll have to go pick up a few things before I get started, but I'll try to keep you all posted as I progress. Thanks again.

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Hey fassssssssenuffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff, beins I liver for walla walla world I get me tha Duplicolor Filler Primer! I like that Fan Spray nozzle and I like the fact that It really does fill scratches too. Ed Shaver

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Thinning Future? :lol:

As CAL mentioned, you don't have to thin Future to go through an airbrush; it seems almost thinner than water. I guess people thin it because their minds are trained to automatically thin a "paint" before running it through an airbrush. In my experience Future sprays so thin all by itself you have to be really careful with it; apply it in very careful light mist coats at first; if it runs a tiny bit it's not a big issue, either blot a corner w/a paper towel or just let it dry, most of the run will disappear. It shrinks a lot as it dries. As more Future builds up on the surface, the heavier/wetter you can shoot it. You have to be particularly patient if you want to shoot it in one sitting; you need to take a few breaks between coats.

If anything it needs a thickening agent before it's sprayed. I even went so far as to put some Future in an open glass jar inside a dehydrator for a couple hours prior to spraying. It definitely was easier to shoot as it was more "paint-like" in how it sprayed and laid down.

With practice it's pretty good. It's definitely not as durable as most clearcoats; it doesn't like being wetsanded (dry sanding with micromesh is fine), it does polish out, and you can easily remove it with glass cleaner if you don't like it.

I prefer other clears...Tamiya or Testors lacquer clears; decanted and sprayed through the airbrush, and sometimes applying one last wet coat of Tamiya clear straight from the can. For more delicate paint and decals, Mr. Hobby B-501 clear is awesome stuff, it's like an extra-heavy-duty Future in a spray can, it's a water-based clear acrylic that sprays nicely (decanted or from the can), dries really fast, and has an almost Teflon-like feel to it; it's a bit harder to sand at first to get out any orange peel prior to buffing it out. It won't eat decals like other hobby clears. The only economical way to get it though is through Hobbylink Japan; get a few cans shipped when buying a kit or two, saves on shipping expense. It's 500 yen per can; Gunze clear is usually 9 or 10 bucks in the US if you can find it, and I think the US distributors have dropped it.

Future is a pretty good carrier to help shoot artist's/craft acrylics on models.

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