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Fully detailed Pagani Huayra..Under Glass


Dann Tier

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4 hours ago, Italianhorses said:

No, that's absolutely spot on. I used to be a perfectionist and little things would drive me nuts! I would re-paint entire bodies because of small specs of dust. But then I realized it does not do me any good and uses up more of my modeling time, which I don't have enough to begin with. So I became a "good enough for me" model builder. And you know what - its great!

Also, quite often, little smudges, goof-ups, or other, can actually help with realism.....especially when you're into the "Used" look. Even non-perfect windows, that most people get bummed about, actually end up looking more realistic than perfect ones. Unless you're building a trailor queen, MOST windows on cars, regardless of how expensive it is, has surprisingly un-perfect glass.....I learned this going to museums, and car shows.

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10 hours ago, Nacho Z said:

I don't think there is a superlative that hasn't been used yet so I am just going to say, beautiful build, Dann!  It has been enjoyable following along.

Thanks, John!!...very much appreciated!! I'm glad you like it!....just as soon as this easile is done, I can post it in the Under Glass section...just have to paint the picture brace, and add PE stuff!

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  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra..Under Glass tomorrow!
  • Dann Tier changed the title to Fully detailed Pagani Huayra..Under Glass
  • 2 weeks later...

mate that is incredible wow wow wow and wow I've never followed a build and been so looking forward to seeing the final product and you my friend have nailed it totally awesome one of the best builds on the web, congrats :D

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3 hours ago, fizi said:

mate that is incredible wow wow wow and wow I've never followed a build and been so looking forward to seeing the final product and you my friend have nailed it totally awesome one of the best builds on the web, congrats :D

WoW!!, Thanks a lot, bud!!!....I really enjoyed making it

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

This deserves to be brought out of the basement!! I came across this thread about a year ago while searching for this kit. Last week I dug this out of the stash and then spent 3 days trying to find this build. This is an amazing tutorial..... being a paint and body person back in the day, ill body fitment is my nemesis in any scale. I obsess over it to almost a sickness. While this kit is no tamiya fit by any means, it does remind me very much of a Fujimi enthusiast kit. Its all there but you gotta work for it.

Very well done sir. 

Whilst I have to disagree with the choice of paint for the body work. Not the color mind you just the choice of using 1:1 body paint in a metallic on a 1:24 scale model. I love the look, color, it's beautiful but the metallic in the paint is just to large for the scale. It reminds me of a bass boat paint job.... and I'm not being disrespectful in any sort of way. I just look at things in scale....including paint. Just an honest perspective. Please don't take offense. I've since been obsessing on this build. white /canopy glue is the only way to go to get a fitment that will come apart for paint.

I very much agree that this kit was designed in 2 ways....1 All open and 2 leave a lot of parts out to be closed. Even #2 option leaves a tremendous amount of fitment. Making it ALL fit together with all the parts and look correct is climbing MT Everest of models. Learning as I go thanks to this thread.

White / canopy glue is a good friend to be able too un-glue parts with hot water. But you might distort plastic parts with too much heat. just keep that in mind. From my experience this glue has a pretty strong bond once it cures,not permanent but still strong.

I'm just trying to add to this build. Not compromise or disrespect it in any way. I have used lots of white glue to build and attach sub-assemblies so far. Hopefully they will come apart before final painting-final assembly. 

I have seen several test shots of this kit being built...It's always all open....Amazing builds with all carbon fibre decals....and impeccable detail. But none never open/closed perfection.

In all honestly you CAN NOT BUILD THIS KIT WITHOUT BUILDING  BEFORE ANY SORT OF PAINTINNG ...BUILD IT TAKE APART and MAKE EVERYTHING FIT  and then start painting and building. 

Respectfully, Patrick.

Edited by pzspeed
added text
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Hopefully Aoshima will look at this build and figure out the short comings of this kit. The fit of the body is atrocious! Not everyone wants a fully open displayed kit that doesn't close as well. I hope the new kit will be developed better. I'm really hoping for a Zonda R kit from someone....

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 11/4/2021 at 9:13 AM, pzspeed said:

This deserves to be brought out of the basement!! I came across this thread about a year ago while searching for this kit. Last week I dug this out of the stash and then spent 3 days trying to find this build. This is an amazing tutorial..... being a paint and body person back in the day, ill body fitment is my nemesis in any scale. I obsess over it to almost a sickness. While this kit is no tamiya fit by any means, it does remind me very much of a Fujimi enthusiast kit. Its all there but you gotta work for it.

Very well done sir. 

Whilst I have to disagree with the choice of paint for the body work. Not the color mind you just the choice of using 1:1 body paint in a metallic on a 1:24 scale model. I love the look, color, it's beautiful but the metallic in the paint is just to large for the scale. It reminds me of a bass boat paint job.... and I'm not being disrespectful in any sort of way. I just look at things in scale....including paint. Just an honest perspective. Please don't take offense. I've since been obsessing on this build. white /canopy glue is the only way to go to get a fitment that will come apart for paint.

I very much agree that this kit was designed in 2 ways....1 All open and 2 leave a lot of parts out to be closed. Even #2 option leaves a tremendous amount of fitment. Making it ALL fit together with all the parts and look correct is climbing MT Everest of models. Learning as I go thanks to this thread.

White / canopy glue is a good friend to be able too un-glue parts with hot water. But you might distort plastic parts with too much heat. just keep that in mind. From my experience this glue has a pretty strong bond once it cures,not permanent but still strong.

I'm just trying to add to this build. Not compromise or disrespect it in any way. I have used lots of white glue to build and attach sub-assemblies so far. Hopefully they will come apart before final painting-final assembly. 

I have seen several test shots of this kit being built...It's always all open....Amazing builds with all carbon fibre decals....and impeccable detail. But none never open/closed perfection.

In all honestly you CAN NOT BUILD THIS KIT WITHOUT BUILDING  BEFORE ANY SORT OF PAINTINNG ...BUILD IT TAKE APART and MAKE EVERYTHING FIT  and then start painting and building. 

Respectfully, Patrick.

Hi, i'm glad you liked it, but i disagree with you about the "scale" of the flakes being wrong. There are an overwhelming amount of cars with large flakes -all types of cars from dune buggies to even Rolls Royce's with them. Just because its a type of paint that isnt "usual", DOESNT make it a non-realistic scale...its personal choice. Here are a few "out of scale" paint jobs on full-size cars .....

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Hi Dann, You do amazing work! Let me just start out by saying that. My comments are just my own opinion, like I said there is never any disrespect on your path for your model. I have myself seen some crazy paint jobs in my lifetime. I'm still trying to get the body fitment correct on this kit! I'm on the second one now as I totally melted the first one just trying to make everything lay down and behave. 

My comments on paint choice are like me telling Vincent Van Gogh how to paint a masterpiece. you did an amazing job with this kit. I've taken what you shared and tried to expand on it with micro magnets to keep the chassis flat and making body parts fit as well as closing and opening as they should....... like i said I'm on the second kit.

The third one should be here today should I screw this one up!!!!!

That being said I have now a lot of parts that, If I live long enough I could probably build a really cool diorama of the parts waiting to be assembled for the next car kept in the cabinets/showroom.

The front bonnet/hood is by far the worst fitting part against the doors!!!

I will say that the upper body can be assembled to the lower half and still be removed from the chassis after it dried. It helps with door fitment and rear bonnet and front bonnet. 
I fixed the floor pan to the base with magnets and a thin steal sheet. Glued the interior to the floor pan and started fitting everything from a flat perfectly starting point.

 

I will say the glass/ clear parts fit is amazing…. So far

C4E50697-47A7-4AAE-A8C7-2BABEE20E945.jpeg

E9B99DC2-4027-44ED-B1E1-BE150E636AE4.jpeg

212D0EF4-4225-4D6B-86F1-7D5C4328553C.jpeg

7B64B0DA-DB3D-43AE-ACDD-1BE3BEE195D9.jpeg

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F9DF074B-8AEF-4304-B048-59845BF58C41.jpeg

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E4FDD179-E9E2-4065-B17C-D9CDE9C896B0.jpeg

Edited by pzspeed
more info on fit
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15 hours ago, pzspeed said:

Hi Dann, You do amazing work! Let me just start out by saying that. My comments are just my own opinion, like I said there is never any disrespect on your path for your model. I have myself seen some crazy paint jobs in my lifetime. I'm still trying to get the body fitment correct on this kit! I'm on the second one now as I totally melted the first one just trying to make everything lay down and behave. 

My comments on paint choice are like me telling Vincent Van Gogh how to paint a masterpiece. you did an amazing job with this kit. I've taken what you shared and tried to expand on it with micro magnets to keep the chassis flat and making body parts fit as well as closing and opening as they should....... like i said I'm on the second kit.

The third one should be here today should I screw this one up!!!!!

That being said I have now a lot of parts that, If I live long enough I could probably build a really cool diorama of the parts waiting to be assembled for the next car kept in the cabinets/showroom.

The front bonnet/hood is by far the worst fitting part against the doors!!!

I will say that the upper body can be assembled to the lower half and still be removed from the chassis after it dried. It helps with door fitment and rear bonnet and front bonnet. 
I fixed the floor pan to the base with magnets and a thin steal sheet. Glued the interior to the floor pan and started fitting everything from a flat perfectly starting point.

 

I will say the glass/ clear parts fit is amazing…. So far

C4E50697-47A7-4AAE-A8C7-2BABEE20E945.jpeg

E9B99DC2-4027-44ED-B1E1-BE150E636AE4.jpeg

212D0EF4-4225-4D6B-86F1-7D5C4328553C.jpeg

7B64B0DA-DB3D-43AE-ACDD-1BE3BEE195D9.jpeg

E9CC2F59-ECDD-4376-9EDF-E8F97B1FA307.jpeg

F9DF074B-8AEF-4304-B048-59845BF58C41.jpeg

1AA9F7E1-0F45-46DF-AD18-6C4E30D11A61.jpeg

E4FDD179-E9E2-4065-B17C-D9CDE9C896B0.jpeg

Its all good, i took no offence, just an explanation.  Yours is looking great so far! its always a great thing to have extra parts...i usually have two kits for every build.

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