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foxbat426

Painting side panel badges

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Hi. I’m doing a 1/32 mosel and was wondering what the best way was to highlight the lerlttwring on the side panels etc.  it’s way to small for foil, so getting some silver or white paint on might look decent. The paint came out great some I don’t want to make a mess. 

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Do you mean scripts?

It's too late now, but in the future, the best way is to use the "foil under paint" technique.

You apply foil to the script before your final color coat & then remove the paint from the foil with some paint thinner.

It takes a bit of practice, but I don't know of a better way to do perfect scripts.

 

Steve

 

2v2UmJV3dxwUbWP.jpg

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Yeah   Thats sweet!!

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On 3/28/2018 at 8:17 PM, StevenGuthmiller said:

Do you mean scripts?

It's too late now, but in the future, the best way is to use the "foil under paint" technique.

You apply foil to the script before your final color coat & then remove the paint from the foil with some paint thinner.

It takes a bit of practice, but I don't know of a better way to do perfect scripts.

 

Steve

 

2v2UmJV3dxwUbWP.jpg

Steve, due to your urging and obvious success, I'm going to be trying this trick on a couple of Corvette models in the very, very near future. I'm not anticipating needing thinner, though; I'm pretty sure I'll just polish through to the foil. 

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Posted (edited)
7 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Steve, due to your urging and obvious success, I'm going to be trying this trick on a couple of Corvette models in the very, very near future. I'm not anticipating needing thinner, though; I'm pretty sure I'll just polish through to the foil. 

You certainly can do that, but just be careful.

It is possible to polish right through the foil as well.

I started out with this technique by polishing off the paint, but found it much easier to use the thinner, & personally, I achieved better results that way.

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller

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5 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

You certainly can do that, but just be careful.

It is possible to polish right through the foil as well.

I started out with this technique by polishing off the paint, but found it much easier to use the thinner, & personally, I achieved better results that way.

 

Steve

I used Steve's method on a 60 Edsel, it came out fantastic on my first try...:)

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6 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

You certainly can do that, but just be careful.

It is possible to polish right through the foil as well.

I started out with this technique by polishing off the paint, but found it much easier to use the thinner, & personally, I achieved better results that way.

 

Steve

Thanks for the heads-up. I'll be using kitchen foil, which is a bit thicker than BMF and should hold up better. But I'll keep some thinner handy just in case. B)

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15 hours ago, Snake45 said:

Steve, due to your urging and obvious success, I'm going to be trying this trick on a couple of Corvette models in the very, very near future. I'm not anticipating needing thinner, though; I'm pretty sure I'll just polish through to the foil. 

I do believe I will try it also, I don't mind painting the trim, but script is difficult sometimes.

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I use a piece of balsa that has been soaked in thinner...the balsa is more porous and softer, reducing the risk of scratching the foil.

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1 hour ago, BigTallDad said:

I use a piece of balsa that has been soaked in thinner...the balsa is more porous and softer, reducing the risk of scratching the foil.

That sounds like an excellent idea! 

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1 hour ago, BigTallDad said:

I use a piece of balsa that has been soaked in thinner...the balsa is more porous and softer, reducing the risk of scratching the foil.

 

1 minute ago, Snake45 said:

That sounds like an excellent idea! 

I actually start with one of those small cone shaped Tamiya swabs to loosen & remove most of the paint.

Then a sharpened tooth pick to get the edges & details.

 

Another thing to remember guys, if you plan on polishing off the paint, one slight detail that you might miss, (and this may not be important to some) is the fact that the paint will still cover the sides of the script.

It's a little difficult to describe, but the paint will extend from the body up the outside edges of the script.

Polishing will not address this, & thinner will not eliminate it all, but with a sharp tooth pick & a little thinner, you can get a little ways farther down the sides to get closer to giving the script the "mounted on the surface" look, rather than a "peeking through the paint" look........if any of that makes sense!! :P

 

A little hard to see things well in these pics due to the body color, but this is my latest attempt.

 

Steve

 

2v2J6apq5xwUbWP.jpg2v2J6acUzxwUbWP.jpg

 

 

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18 minutes ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

 

I actually start with one of those small cone shaped Tamiya swabs to loosen & remove most of the paint.

Then a sharpened tooth pick to get the edges & details.

 

Another thing to remember guys, if you plan on polishing off the paint, one slight detail that you might miss, (and this may not be important to some) is the fact that the paint will still cover the sides of the script.

It's a little difficult to describe, but the paint will extend from the body up the outside edges of the script.

Polishing will not address this, & thinner will not eliminate it all, but with a sharp tooth pick & a little thinner, you can get a little ways farther down the sides to get closer to giving the script the "mounted on the surface" look, rather than a "peeking through the paint" look........if any of that makes sense!! :P

 

The balsa is soft enough to take away a little bit more on the edges (or you can make an indentation to assist).

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3 hours ago, BigTallDad said:

 

The balsa is soft enough to take away a little bit more on the edges (or you can make an indentation to assist).

Either way, this is something that would be difficult to do with polishing off the paint versus using thinner.

 

Steve

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2 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Either way, this is something that would be difficult to do with polishing off the paint versus using thinner.

 

Steve

You lost me on this. I'm using the balsa with thinner, not polish, to remove the paint from the scripts.

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6 hours ago, BigTallDad said:

You lost me on this. I'm using the balsa with thinner, not polish, to remove the paint from the scripts.

Right, but I was responding mostly to "Snake's" response about trying this method, but polishing the paint off of the script rather than using thinner.

My first response to you in this thread was in 2 parts.

In the first part I was merely stating to you how I used the same technique as you do with different tools to achieve the same result.

The second part was meant as a response to Snakes post.

I guess our wires were just crossed. ;)

 

Steve

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Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

Polishing will not address this, & thinner will not eliminate it all, but with a sharp tooth pick & a little thinner, you can get a little ways farther down the sides to get closer to giving the script the "mounted on the surface" look, rather than a "peeking through the paint" look........if any of that makes sense!!

Makes perfect sense. I will be trying this on my next bit of script! Now I just have to send away for those 7x readers I saw in the infomercial last night.

Edited by NOBLNG

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9 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Makes perfect sense. I will be trying this on my next bit of script! Now I just have to send away for those 7x readers I saw in the infomercial last night.

:D

Yes, some good magnification is an absolute must for this type of intricate work.

 

Steve

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Thanks for the foil and Balsa wood tips Guys! My very first attempt turned out pretty good I think. I used the eraser end of a pencil to press the foil down between the numbers. The Balsa slightly dampened with lacquer thinner loosened the paint, and a light rubbing with dry balsa polished the letters up nicely. I did not attempt to clean the sides of the script this time, as it is quite shallow and I did not want to risk having to paint this hood a third time.

IMG_3170.JPG

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Looks great!

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3 hours ago, NOBLNG said:

Thanks for the foil and Balsa wood tips Guys! My very first attempt turned out pretty good I think. I used the eraser end of a pencil to press the foil down between the numbers. The Balsa slightly dampened with lacquer thinner loosened the paint, and a light rubbing with dry balsa polished the letters up nicely. I did not attempt to clean the sides of the script this time, as it is quite shallow and I did not want to risk having to paint this hood a third time.

IMG_3170.JPG

I just foiled the sides of the Revell '69 Baldwin-Motion Vette hood to do this exact thing. Nice to know that it's going to work! B)

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Posted (edited)

content deleted

Edited by BigTallDad

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1 hour ago, Snake45 said:

I just foiled the sides of the Revell '69 Baldwin-Motion Vette hood to do this exact thing. Nice to know that it's going to work! B)

Piece of cake, Snake!

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Posted (edited)

Ive used Steves method several times with EXCELLANT results

 

And I'll assure you a GOOD lighted magnifier is an absolute must to do it ( at least it is for me )

 

rear-left.thumb.jpg.2f261c6b1f97b7137b6730b2ea95fd39.jpgleft-front.thumb.jpg.643b405905d51a1e824bbb3227874d25.jpgleft-rear.thumb.jpg.aface2e7f66f6dfcef6bc4495c87b83a.jpg20170329_113112.thumb.jpg.a2bf9d614fd9c6519eb35c6ad531bfce.jpg

Edited by gtx6970

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2 hours ago, BigTallDad said:

Piece of cake, Snake!

I also did the CORVETTE lettering on the rear panel, and the front and rear crossed-flag emblems. The latter, I'm just going to mask off with white glue but am hoping the polish-through trick works on the rear. 

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You can hone this technique to do some pretty remarkable things.

One of my most successful attempts was on this extremely faint '61 Buick trunk badge.

 

Steve

 

2v2J6n7hjxwUbWP.jpg

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