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Oh, it was the old filter cartridge, before spin-ons. The B-model used a similar one, but it sat lower. This guy had one like on mine (see image), which sat a LOT higher. Not an issue under an R hood, but kinda "unique" on a B!

The above quote is from a discussion on BigMackTrucks.com . It is the old canister type.


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Edited by landman
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  • 2 weeks later...

Wheels are on. this was to be the one where I would attempt air brake plumbing. I studied all the sketches and postings but it was the valves that stumped me. Yesterday, I found out that KFS will be issuing some later this year. So I'll wait until the next truck. tq142.JPG


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Edited by landman
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  • 3 weeks later...

Thanks Brian. Primed the cab and realized that pieces I thought were running boards were in fact inner fenders. Installed them breaking the windshield center post in the process. Fixed that. Now I will need some advice. The cab will be grey with black fenders and a green interior. In which sequence should I proceed?

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Edited by landman
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I usually spray the interior first, let it dry fully, and then some, and then mask off the whole interior for the two tone paint. I USUALLY would paint the gray first, and then the black, just because the black is easier to get marks on when masking it, so I would do the gray first, then the black.

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Looks like I've done everything backwards. Wouldn't be the first time. -_- Interior is next. I don't have a gray light enough. So it'll go on last...when I find it.


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Edited by landman
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Be careful masking especially to a painted edge....................it will sometimes lift the edge when unmasking. I usually paint the first color without masking it off. Then I let it dry, dry, dry, mask it off, hit the oversprayed area with more primer, and then paint the second color. Again, just personal preference, but in my case, the way I used to do it when I painted the full size stuff.

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14 minutes ago, redneckrigger said:

Be careful masking especially to a painted edge....................it will sometimes lift the edge when unmasking. I usually paint the first color without masking it off. Then I let it dry, dry, dry, mask it off, hit the oversprayed area with more primer, and then paint the second color. Again, just personal preference, but in my case, the way I used to do it when I painted the full size stuff.

There is a big "groove" along the base of the hood. I hoped to make the joint in there then touch it up with black after. Thanks for the advice.

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7 minutes ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

Man I hate that about your paint! I'm sure you'll get it straightened out.

Out of curiosity, you didn't happen to be using Rustoleum in a spray can were you?

No I used a brand called Premier. It was the only grey light enough I could find locally. it worked well on the spoon and decided to spew grit on the model. I'll do more testing before using it again on the model. -_-

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1 minute ago, landman said:

No I used a brand called Premier. It was the only grey light enough I could find locally. it worked well on the spoon and decided to spew grit on the model. I'll do more testing before using it again on the model. -_-

The only reason that I asked is that I had the exact same result with Rustoleum red. It worked well on metal, but it had the exact same result on a plastic model. I had used lacquer primer as well. I will now add Premier to the list of paints that I avoid.

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18 minutes ago, DRIPTROIT 71 said:

The only reason that I asked is that I had the exact same result with Rustoleum red. It worked well on metal, but it had the exact same result on a plastic model. I had used lacquer primer as well. I will now add Premier to the list of paints that I avoid.

Brian, this wasn't wrinkling or lifting, it was like it shot powder for an instant.

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