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foxbat426

procedure for doing metal foil scripts

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Posted (edited)

hi,   im going to try my first attempt at doing metal foil scripts vs painting the scripts, which never looks quite right. I  would be interested in hearing how you do it.  I'll be doing it on  a 1/32 lindberg scale Pontiac Ventura.   Any suggestions appreciated. I'll be airbrushing with enamel and i don't usually primer (donn Yost method).  thanks John

Edited by foxbat426
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Don't forget about Molotow chrome pens. They work quite nice.

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Kris,  thanks for the recommendation.  what size head is best for scripts? from what i can see on amazon there is a 1mm, 2 mm and 4 mm size.  I might pick one up.

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Posted (edited)
48 minutes ago, foxbat426 said:

Kris,  thanks for the recommendation.  what size head is best for scripts? from what i can see on amazon there is a 1mm, 2 mm and 4 mm size.  I might pick one up.

All I can say is good luck getting a crisp clean, script with a Molotow pen.

Personally, I could get much more control from a paint brush.

If you're going to use the pens, I would suggest using the ink from them with a fine brush.

Does anyone have any clear photos of the results that they have achieved using the pens on scripts?

I would be interested to see them.

 

Steve

Edited by StevenGuthmiller

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1 hour ago, StevenGuthmiller said:

All I can say is good luck getting a crisp clean, script with a Molotow pen.

Personally, I could get much more control from a paint brush.

If you're going to use the pens, I would suggest using the ink from them with a fine brush.

Does anyone have any clear photos of the results that they have achieved using the pens on scripts?

I would be interested to see them.

 

Steve

Going to agree with you on this one. I don't think the Molotows are the right tool for fine scripts, though they might work okay for some emblems and so forth.

I found a very fine silver gel ink Pentel pen at Hobby Lobby that seems to do okay on SOME kinds of fine scripts. In other cases I've had good luck dry-brushing Testor Silver on fine scripts, and cleaning up any overages with the point of a round wooden toothpick. 

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1 minute ago, Snake45 said:

Going to agree with you on this one. I don't think the Molotows are the right tool for fine scripts, though they might work okay for some emblems and so forth.

I found a very fine silver gel ink Pentel pen at Hobby Lobby that seems to do okay on SOME kinds of fine scripts. In other cases I've had good luck dry-brushing Testor Silver on fine scripts, and cleaning up any overages with the point of a round wooden toothpick. 

I believe that the scripts that you would try doing with a Molotow pen would need to be quite prominent and well defined.

Many of the scripts on newer kits are very faint.

Doing scripts on a 1/32nd scale body with these pens would likely be doubly difficult.

 

Steve

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Sharpie also does a very fine point silver. I've only found it sold in pairs with a gold one in the craft section of Walmart (not the office/school section, where I buy the regular silver ones). They have a point that's useful for some things. I recently used the gold one (just since I had it) to do the gold Chevy emblems on a couple late-model Camaros and it worked real well. Much easier than brush painting them. 

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Before you put on the color coat cover the script with BMF.  Trim it close to the script but do not worry about getting into every little crevice.  Do your color coat as usual.  After it is dry take a soft cloth, some good polish like Novus and rub away the color coat on the script.  It will leave a nice clean raised script on the top surface.

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On 5/18/2018 at 4:27 PM, Chariots of Fire said:

Before you put on the color coat cover the script with BMF.  Trim it close to the script but do not worry about getting into every little crevice.  Do your color coat as usual.  After it is dry take a soft cloth, some good polish like Novus and rub away the color coat on the script.  It will leave a nice clean raised script on the top surface.

That would be my recommendation.

I've been using a variation of this method myself for probably 20 years.

 

Steve

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