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64 dodge 330 super stock


bauercrew

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Well here is a BIG screw up:angry: ,,,,tryed my first darkening the door panels lines and trunk,,sorry guys any suggestions ??? was going to start over but said heck with it ,,,will just go ALL the way in back of cabinet:lol:,,also for a first ,,tryed that double faced tape someone mentioned on here for windshield  works great also used it for the hood scoop also front bumber, man this stuff is STICKY ,,,SO THANKS for whom ever suggested it

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Nice work, but does anyone else think that this kit looks odd?

Something about the front fenders & the front quarter trim.

It doesn't look like if flows correctly.

The trim looks like it starts lower at the door line & swoops upwards towards the front bumper.

Looks out of proportion to me.

 

Steve

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Nice job!!  I agree the body just does not look right but the worst thing to me is the windshield is flat and it should be curved. The chrome on the front finders arches up and it should be straight with the rest of the chrome. the chrome is an easy fix but you can't do anything about the windshield. You still did a nice job Bill.

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I think you did a great job with this build. You got the stance and a nice paint job and the body proportions mentioned by others while correct should not be a distraction from your build. You mentioned the door and trunk lines seeming to dark to you. While it might be risky at this point, but if you wanted to tone down the color you could take some of the body color and thin it way down to where you can just notice the yellow color and then try painting the shut lines and wipe away any excess. As Steve mentioned I also think the body trim moldings start going wrong on the door and are way to high by the time they get to the front fender. This could have been changed, but it depends on how comfortable you are doing that. I wouldn't let any of this worry you since it is a great looking build and you should be proud to have it on your shelf.   

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Ok about the side mouldings I did not do any research but after the fact I did look at the REAL CARS I see what you mean (it is higher up on fender on model)so  I checked ALL the models and they are all the SAME way as this model, I did buy them all at Ollies  I bought 5 of them,i wounder if that's why they were so cheap because it was a defect ????? and the more experience modelers may have been able to fix it im not going to try I don't have the patients to try to modify models since they are expensive to begin with :o. so I got 4 more to continue on with later on ,,all in all this kit was fun and went together with NO fitment issues anywhere,,,just wish It came with the dog dish caps ,,oh well looks like I will be casting me some more dog dishes,,,really liked that lookB)

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Hey Steve ,,,no harm done,,,i will admit im one to build pretty much box stock MOST of time with out research ,and most of time I build with no specific goal :unsure: lots of times I will be working on one part of model then change my BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH mind about something else on model :lol: and total go in different direction with it . AND to be honest I really didn't have ANY intentions on posting ANY of my finished builds because of the caliber of builders on here,BUT I love Photography and thought give it a try,so im getting just as much enjoyment trying :blink: to photograph the models

 

Bill

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33 minutes ago, bauercrew said:

Hey Steve ,,,no harm done,,,i will admit im one to build pretty much box stock MOST of time with out research ,and most of time I build with no specific goal :unsure: lots of times I will be working on one part of model then change my BLAH_BLAH_BLAH_BLAH mind about something else on model :lol: and total go in different direction with it . AND to be honest I really didn't have ANY intentions on posting ANY of my finished builds because of the caliber of builders on here,BUT I love Photography and thought give it a try,so im getting just as much enjoyment trying :blink: to photograph the models

 

Bill

The build is well executed Bill, and it is surely no fault of yours that the kit is flawed.

I'm just curious as to why I have not heard the criticisms that one normally hears about this sort of shortcoming when a kit comes out.

That criticism may have very well taken place and I just missed it, due to the fact that this particular model does not interest me & I have not followed many builds of it.

But, when I saw your model, it just leapt out at me.

That being said, I don't think that I will bother ever purchasing one of these kits.

Thank God we have more accurate Johan '64 Dodges still out there.

I have an original Johan '64 Dodge Polara "flat top" kit that I look forward to building, & while it's not the sedan version, the proportions are much more accurate.

 

Steve

 

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I think it looks very nice, that yellow really stands out!  On a light colored car, try inking in the panel lines before painting.  It seems to darken them just enough to notice without jumping out at you.  On dark colors I ink them after or don't even bother.  Hope this helps.

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On 4/11/2018 at 6:52 PM, bauercrew said:

Well here is a BIG screw up:angry: ,,,,tryed my first darkening the door panels lines and trunk,,sorry guys any suggestions ??? was going to start over but said heck with it ,,,will just go ALL the way in back of cabinet:lol:,,also for a first ,,tryed that double faced tape someone mentioned on here for windshield  works great also used it for the hood scoop also front bumber, man this stuff is STICKY ,,,SO THANKS for whom ever suggested it

d1.jpg

d2.jpg

d3.jpg

d4.jpg

d6.jpg

I've never blackened my door/trunk lines..I'll show in this picture of my 64 Dodge..

1964 Dodge #5 March 25,2018.jpg

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Looks good! I assume you put some kind of black in the panel lines that you can't get back out again. I recently went through some door line drama myself. Here's an idea that might work for you. Go to Walmart or a craft store and look at the cheap acrylic craft paints. You want water-thinnable, and "matte" or flat (not gloss), and something that would look like "shadowed yellow." Maybe a "brown mustard" color, or a tan or medium (not dark) brown of some sort. Okay, squirt a dab of that out, thin it with a little water so it flows, and brush it into your lines right over the black. Don't worry about slopping it out onto the "surface," just wipe that right off with a damp paper towel as you go. I'll bet it'll look better than the stark black. 

If it's still too dark, try it again with yellow. My own drama involved a white body, and after trying a couple different shades of gray (on top of black), I ended up putting white paint in there, which looked better than anything I'd tried before. Good luck with it! B)

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26 minutes ago, Snake45 said:

Looks good! I assume you put some kind of black in the panel lines that you can't get back out again. I recently went through some door line drama myself. Here's an idea that might work for you. Go to Walmart or a craft store and look at the cheap acrylic craft paints. You want water-thinnable, and "matte" or flat (not gloss), and something that would look like "shadowed yellow." Maybe a "brown mustard" color, or a tan or medium (not dark) brown of some sort. Okay, squirt a dab of that out, thin it with a little water so it flows, and brush it into your lines right over the black. Don't worry about slopping it out onto the "surface," just wipe that right off with a damp paper towel as you go. I'll bet it'll look better than the stark black. 

If it's still too dark, try it again with yellow. My own drama involved a white body, and after trying a couple different shades of gray (on top of black), I ended up putting white paint in there, which looked better than anything I'd tried before. Good luck with it! B)

Exactly my method.

Just keep in mind that even a "very slightly" darker color than the body color will look much darker once in the panel line.

Plus the fact that these paints seem to dry darker than when they are wet.

I still frequently wind up with my panel lines too dark. -_-

 

Steve

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