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Side by side by side Dragster builds...Kemp-Teresi-Sobak


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John... thanks man, no worries at all. I am really glad that I am doing the carefree version. There was something about it that I just liked when I saw it and was so glad that Chuck Boerner had those decals. Looking forward to another update of your Garlits dragster.

Brad... thanks for always having us over the night before the Deseet Scale show. It's always a good time for sure.

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Tim.. thank you. I am excited about this paint scheme with this one. I really like the contrast between the blue chassis and red body for some reason. Hey I tried posting on your bantam thread and I am getting errors for some reason. Seems the site is jacked up for me again. I will pm you a screen shot of it. 

Andy... this has been fun so far and a nice change of pace for me...lol

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Hello Fellas.... Thought I would post a couple of pics with minor progress on my dragster. I was able to get some clear on my valve covers and clutch can. As well as I was able to spray some Alclad on them earlier this morning. I also picked up a few more items for the build too. Alright I will shut up and show you a few pics.

So hear are the parts with clear added to them yesterday. I used HOK Black base and then cleared them with PPG Omni Plus Ureathane Clear:

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Then I had ordered a few more aftermarket Items from Laski Scale Specialties. Had to pick up some Pro Tech Blower Pulley's, a MAD Pre Wired Distributor and some Pro Tech Spark Plug wire. I will replace the White wire with the Yellow since in my reference pic you can see Yellow Spark plug wires. If you are ever needing any Pro Tech, Morgan Automotive Detail (MAD) or Studio 27 Parts, go take a look at http://www.laskiscale.com/  Art is a great guy to do business with and he gets his products shipped out quickly:

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Here is the Clutch Can and Valve covers after I sprayed some Alclad Chrome on them earlier today. Don't Judge the way the look since you still see a little bit of the over spray dust on them. I will be lightly polishing them and they will shine up really nice and show some after pics once I get them buffed out:

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That paint job looks great Chris. Now I am starting to see where all the quality and detail from you expert's builds come from... that was a lot of work for three small parts.

If I may ask a newb question, what airbrushes do you three use?  I read an article in a magazine where Clay mentioned what he was using recently and I was surprised by his answer.

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James.... No I don't use any compound to buff it. What I refer to polishing it basically wiping off the dust on the Alclad with a soft cloth. When I do that it shines it up like polishing it. I will show pics soon of these parts polished up.

Chris... Thank you very much. When it comes to Alclad I have found for me to get good results is all in the prep work for the parts. As well as I found that when I used my HOK black base along with the Urethane Clear I get a better result than when I used Alclads black base. I also have to mention that I was lucky enough to have John Teresi share with me this Techniques on his Alclad work and I have been trying to put it to use to get better at it. He has to be one of best at it in my opinion, he sure has the technique mastered for sure. To answer your question on the Air brushes I use. I am a big Badger fan and I have Badger model 200 single action air brush that I use most of the time and this air brush his my go to and have had it for over 20 years. About 3 to 4 years ago I picked up an Iwata Neo-Gen at Hobby Lobby for pretty cheap to try it out. At the time I thought it would be good to use for Alclad but it seemed I did a little better with my Badger. Maybe it was because I am not as used to a Dual Action air brush. Then about a year ago I picked up another Iwata air brush, It's and Iwata Eclipse model HP-CS Dual action air brush. I still haven't had a chance to use it yet but I was hearing some great things about it and I picked it up because it can do much finer detail Than my badger. Anyway I hope that helps answering your question. Another thing is that it took me a while to figure out what works best for me when it comes to painting. Finding out what works best for you as in what pressure to spray at, how fast of a pass you make on a body, how far away the air brush is from what your painting...etc Everyone's will find something that works for them. It may simply be the brand of air brush and how it feels in your hand. You need to find whats comfortable for you. Also lots of practice came to play. Trust me I messed up a lot of things over my years...lol

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Thanks for that information Chris.  After researching a lot about airbrushes I got the Neo for Iwata CN which is the one I believe you got at HL.  It is a good one but I think I have figured out that I need a bigger needle for most things model car related... and probably single action too for painting bodies just to get constancy.

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Chris... you are welcome. I forgot to mention that on my badger I am using a medium tip. I couldn't pass up the Iwata eclipse with the 40% off coupon...lol but I always tend to fall back to my Badger 200 because if the consistency as you mentioned and that I am comfortable with it.

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Funny thing Chris but I was under the impression that an airbrush like you use is a beginner's airbrush and tried to go one step above and I should've started and stayed there LOL.  From that article that interviewed Clay he uses two 350s and a 150 for detail.  I should have researched more :) as a lot of the greats are using these "beginner" airbrushes.  The Neo Iwata I have will do great for detail work but I need to figure out what to get for single action and a bigger tip.  I won't hijack this thread anymore about this but I am looking forward to hearing if Clay is still using the two 350s and the 150 and what John is using.  Thanks again Chris!

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Chris... Keep asking questions if you have them. That's what this forum is all about to learn from one another. I think you will get a variety of answers from different builders on what they use. I went with Badger all those years ago because to me it felt more comfortable in my hand than Paasche's did a long time ago. You will have to figure out whats comfortable for you. I am sure that Clay and John will chime in and let you know what they use.

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So a very minor update. wanted to show everyone the valve covers and clutch can what they look after my so called Polishing. Sorry that the pictures a little crappy as I was having trouble getting some good pics with my cell phone out in the sun.

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Chris, when you have the time to try out your Iwata eclipse, you may never go back to any other air brush. I have been using mine for ten years or more. 

I got mine for doing RC car bodies. It works great with all kinds of paints and once you get the hang of the duel action,you do some amazing stuff with it.

Oh by the way all of your guys builds look amazing ? 

look forward on the next set of updates 

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Man Chris your chrome looks great! Thanks for showing how you do it. I would be afraid to polish it for fear I would just rub it all off. But I think I need to try that method again.

 

To answer all the airbrush questions....I used an Iwata HP-BCS dual action forever. Alclads, base coats, 2 part clear....I loved that airbrush. Then one day it quit working. I cleaned it over and over and could not figured out why it wouldn't pull paint anymore. If I remember right, I could get airflow. But no paint. I should either get it fixed or buy a new one. Because it was the best airbrush I ever had. Now I have two of the cheap Badger single action 350's. I use the medium tip for all my main spraying, and the heavy tip for spraying 2 part clear. I also have a Badger 150 dual action I use for Alcald, or thinner base coats. Hope that helps!

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I had an update posted the other day, but got the error message as soon as I hit submit. So I will try again!

I ended up clearing the chassis with HoK 2 part clear. Just one smooth coat. I also installed the seat and added a set of Pro Tech belts and hardware.

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I finished the slicks as well. I used Powerslide Nascar tire decals then sealed them with Testors dullcote. Then I rubbed them with a Tamiya weathering kit to dull them down. I also got the wings cleaned up and ready for primer.

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Moving to the engine....I finally got the valve covers painted so I could get them on, and add the plug wires. I used Pro Tech red plug wires, and also added a Pro Tech pulley kit to the front. I had picked up a Gravity Chrome paint kit in Atlanta last year at the NNL and had been wanting to try it. I think it works pretty well. And so far it seems pretty durable.

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I need to get my front axle figured out, then I think I can get the body and wings in paint.

 

Thanks for looking!

Clay

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Everything looks great Clay.. I was going to asked how you weathered the tread on your rear tires but I went back and it looks like they came that way. The detail on your distributor is amazing... didn't even know anyone could get that kind of detail in such a small space.

Thanks for the information on your airbrush setup :)

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