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Painting parts


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OK. New topic. Next problem I have. Painting parts. If I use a clip, I have a spot where the clip was I have to touch up. That sucks. If I use two sided tape or just tape to hold the part, I get glue residue on the part. Leaving it on the spruce creates an spot I need to touch up. Any suggestions???

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There are a few ways I hold my parts for painting. I always remove the part from the sprue. I sand the imperfections and parting lines away, and usually use alligator clips secured to wooden skewer sticks. If the part needs touching up from where the clip was holding it, I touch it up with the appropriate colored Sharpie marker. The only draw back to alligator clips are, after painting many parts, they get a build up of paint on them, and need replacing.  Another way you could hold parts is by CA (super glue) and accelerator. Let’s say you want to paint an oil pan, and all you have to do is get a scrap piece of sprue, and super glue it to the inside with a drop of accelerator. Then simply snap the old sprue off when the part dries. No need to touch up. Or you can heat a pin, and stick it into the part in an area that won’t be noticed. The more models you build, you’ll find yourself coming up with many time saving ideas.

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21 hours ago, Super28 said:

OK. New topic. Next problem I have. Painting parts. If I use a clip, I have a spot where the clip was I have to touch up. That sucks. If I use two sided tape or just tape to hold the part, I get glue residue on the part. Leaving it on the spruce creates an spot I need to touch up. Any suggestions???

Low tack masking tape leaves no residue on my parts.

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On 5/13/2018 at 10:33 AM, Super28 said:

...Leaving it on the spruce creates an spot I need to touch up. Any suggestions???

Spruce: image.jpeg              Sprue:     image.jpeg.ca3424d87490e90e4b0d2bd3741bfea4.jpeg

As far as painting small parts goes, there's always a side of the part that's not visible after assembly.

Figure out what area that is.

You can attach the part to a toothpick or piece of wire with a drop of superglue, or by drilling a small hole in the part.

For painting something like a hood, a loop of real body-shop tape will leave no residue. If you use a cheaper tape that DOES leave a residue, a little 70% isopropyl alcohol will take it right off.

I always have a bottle of 70% iso near the bench, because I ALWAYS wipe down my parts with it before primer and then again before paint...and I haven't had a fisheye since I started doing that in 2005.

 

 

Edited by Ace-Garageguy
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On 5/14/2018 at 8:00 AM, Ace-Garageguy said:

Okay yoose guys...B)

Spruce: image.jpeg         is   Plural of   Sprue:     image.jpeg.ca3424d87490e90e4b0d2bd3741bfea4.jpeg

 

Yes, super glue on toothpicks leaves a residue on the unseen parts, but I like how firmly it holds until I'm done handling the pieces.

Alclad-vi.jpg

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16 hours ago, Lunajammer said:

Okay yoose guys...B)

Spruce: image.jpeg         is   Plural of   Sprue:     image.jpeg.ca3424d87490e90e4b0d2bd3741bfea4.jpeg

Oh boy! Can I chime in here? SPRUES would be the plural of sprue. In polypropylene molding (toy soldiers n such) the larger pathways are called trees and the smaller pathways are also called sprues. And of course you can hear the term runners as well as gate or gateway for the part attachment point. A spruce is a conifer. Ain't terminology fun?:rolleyes:

Responding to the initial question; masking tape is designed to peel off without leaving residue, use decent quality tape for holding parts, I usually just make a loop out of regular tape as opposed to the more expensive double sided version. Cyano and toothpicks are great for holding parts in unseen locations. I also use rubber cement which cleans off easier. Cut or sand the end of your round toothpicks for a larger 'grip' area. Flat toothpicks and lots of other long items in your trash can all come in handy. There are some parts (car hoods, etc. ) that you're just going to have to paint twice, grin and bear it. I like to wait at least 24 hours before taping or gluing for the next coat. 

hth

Keeper

 

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  • 1 month later...

This is exactly the topic I hoped to fine today. I’ve been building on and off for 30 years and painting is where I always struggle mentally. I’ve tried painting parts on the sprue, touching up when I cut it off. I’ve also done sub-assemblies before painting (engine blocks, 1/35 figures sans details). I just ordered some alligator clips on sticks and I’m experimenting with temporarily glueing small parts to styrene rods. 

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Glueing old sprues to parts works great on parts like oil pans, hoods, etc. Sometimes I get lazy and just alligator clip a bumper, or whatever, and usually, depending on the color I’m painting, I can just dab it with a Sharpie where the clip was. After putting the clip in an inconspicuous place to begin with.

Edited by Brutalform
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I have learned to use all sorts of ways to hold my parts or painting.  I sue masking tape, double-sided tape, pieces of wire insulation or heat shrink tubing, and often I drill and glue brass wire to the parts, then attach them to a handle for painting.  Here is a sample of a tiny fire engine mounted for painting.  It is a photo-etched brass kit but I do the same with plastic parts.

For full resolution see http://micronart.com/Wisniewski_images/Paint-prep.jpg

Paint-prep.jpg

Edited by peteski
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